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Hello Everyone
I gotta Question : I Own a 03 F-250 SD 5.4L w/110+K miles. She runs just fine, But this will be the 2nd time the passager side manifold has Failed.
Would anyone know if headers would make a bettter Choice. Would they Last longer make the truck run any better. Or Should I Just stick to a Ford manifold??
Thanks Jay
Second time arounds on those are Rare. I would say how about trying some Stainless Steel headers from Gibson, of course its going to be much more money since you'll be changing both sides and the headers cost more then the Manifolds. Also, an other Option i can give to you, just so you can save some money. There is a dealer in PA by the name of "Dean O'neil Ford, INC" It looks like they really want to get rid of that manifold. You should try getting ahold of them and see if they are willing to sell it to you at dealer cost. Part# XL3Z-9430-GA Cost $81.67 The Dealers phone# 814-634-5921. Give them a Buzz and see what they'll do to get rid of it.
PS: Give me a good Rep and let me know if this helped you out.
Thanks CCERNIGLIA
It's not a question of saving money. I just would like not to have to do this again.
It's winter here and the truck won't fit in the Garage..
Do you know if Shorty Headers are any better or just hipe?
I put the cheapo stainless eBay headers on my V10 when I broke a few manifold studs.
Well worth it - didn't hurt the low-end, helped the high-end power a bit, and sounds nice too
They are almost a year old, still look somewhat shiny, and are holding up very well. There was an installation issue or two, but nothing earth-shattering.
You say the manifold "failed" - did it crack? Or just leak and now you think it's warped?
Headers are better than stock cast manifolds in almost every way and provide more power. The only drawback to headers is that they are a little more noisy because of the thin tubing over the very heavy wall casting. Another added benefit is replacing all the crappy stock manifold studs that break, headers use bolts instead.
I have a set of Doug Thorley headers and Y-pipe on my 04' 6.8l for about 2 months now. They really woke up the engine especially in the low rpm range. The Thorleys are actually considered long tube headers.
Long tube headers are actually provide a little better low end power than shortys. Shorty headers are used more on newer vehicles because the bolt in place of the stock manifolds. Long tubes replace the entire Y-pipe assembly.
I like the Doug Thorley headers because of the thicker 14Ga. tubing they use, most other companies use 16Ga or 18Ga. The thicker the tubing the less header noise you'll have.
If you do go for headers I would also ditch the restrictive stock Y-pipe in favor of an EBay or Stans unit.
Thanks Guys
And what I meant by failed 1st time two bolts broke off on end near the firewall Pass, side now i have a crack in it in the Middle... I dont get it.
Thanks Guys
And what I meant by failed 1st time two bolts broke off on end near the firewall Pass, side now i have a crack in it in the Middle... I dont get it.
Was the manifold replaced last time, or was it milled? If not, it was warped, and now it cracked because it wasn't done right the first time.
Thanks Guys
And what I meant by failed 1st time two bolts broke off on end near the firewall Pass, side now i have a crack in it in the Middle... I dont get it.
My truck is an 04' with 27k miles. One of the studs was broken off when I got my headers on. My dads 03' 6.8l had 6 studs broken studs. Both our trucks came with stainless exhaust manifolds which warp easier and expand more than cast iron. (Yours are probably stainless as well) The expansion and contraction will break the studs over time. Ford also had a (large) bad run of studs as well. Its a common problem for those engines and years.
I have Banks torque tube headers which are stainless. The best thing about headers is you remove all 20 exhaust studs (can be a pain in the butt) and replace them with bolts. Mine are all stainless. It has been about 70K since I did the headers and I have not any problems. No matter what headers you decide to buy, make sure they have thick flanges or else they will warp and cause leaks. Getting some forgiving gaskets help too. Sometimes the metal gaskets can be a pain to get sealed.
I have Banks torque tube headers which are stainless. The best thing about headers is you remove all 20 exhaust studs (can be a pain in the butt) and replace them with bolts. Mine are all stainless. It has been about 70K since I did the headers and I have not any problems. No matter what headers you decide to buy, make sure they have thick flanges or else they will warp and cause leaks. Getting some forgiving gaskets help too. Sometimes the metal gaskets can be a pain to get sealed.
I'm about to be a bit
Awsome Headers! If i have a V10 that would be first pick. I heard a 6.8L with a full Banks Exhaust with headers this summer here in the shop, Sickest sound i have ever Heard.
Looks like These are what Im going with unless Someone knows why i Shouldn't???
Gibson Headers - Stainless
GIBSON PERFORMANCE EXHAUST HEADER, STAINLESS -- A Direct Replacement For Factory Manifold, Made Of High Quality 409L Stainless Steel And Heavy Duty 16ga Mandrel-Bent Tubing To Maintain Constant Exhaust Flow For Outstanding Performance, Heavy Duty 3/8" Thick Laser Cut Port Flanges, Bolt-On Installation, No Welding Required, Attaches To OE Crossover Pipe, OEM Style Connections, Dyno-Tuned And Engineered To Deliver More Usable Horsepower And Torque, Increases Engine's Efficiency By Allowing It To Breathe Easier And Run At Cooler Temperature, Well Suited For Lowered and Raised Vehicles, Street And Off-Road, Premium Gaskets And Hardware Included, With EGR Fitting, 50 State Street Legal
Finish: Stainless
Free Shipping on Orders Over $50
Availability: In Stock
FITS (Engine/Chassis)
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i just bought the same headers for my 5.4 seem nice only thing im having trouble with is getting soemthing tight. I still have a tick somewhere on the driverside. Im thinking its the flange it didnt line up the best but im sure some exhaust cement can seal that up....
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