another exhaust stud thread
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another exhaust stud thread
I have read posts about replacing exhaust manifold studs until my eyes are bleeding..... I'm going with the remflex manifold and Y gaskets. And the SS studs and nuts from amazon... Got a local shop that will plane the old manifolds for $30 each. Have a stud removal tool, small mig welder and a heated shop. What I am I missing?
Another question.... I have seen some folks put a wrench on the nut and crank away and get some of the little buggers out... I have seen others cut the nuts off, remove the manifold and they soak and heat the studs for days before taking the stud tool to them..... Thought?
Another question.... I have seen some folks put a wrench on the nut and crank away and get some of the little buggers out... I have seen others cut the nuts off, remove the manifold and they soak and heat the studs for days before taking the stud tool to them..... Thought?
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10-4.
I have a 3V that I replaced the manifolds with headers and would prefer to have left it stock. The 2Vs on the other hand have a lot of good reps for doing headers and Y pipe conversions. @Krewat might want to chime in with his thoughts on the 2V headers, he did a great write up on the process of removing studs and installing headers.
I have a 3V that I replaced the manifolds with headers and would prefer to have left it stock. The 2Vs on the other hand have a lot of good reps for doing headers and Y pipe conversions. @Krewat might want to chime in with his thoughts on the 2V headers, he did a great write up on the process of removing studs and installing headers.
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From: Long Island USA
Hey, thanks for the tag 
The OP says he's reusing the stock manifolds, so the following doesn't mean much, but I gotta say it anyway:
2-valves do get a decent bump in upper-end-power, and the sound is not bad if you use headers that have a thick-enough wall. Whatever you do, stay away from the Heddmans. Get stainless, and don't look back. Even ceramic coated, they are destined to rot somehow if you nick the finish during installation or at any other time.
Now, saying that, a lot of people here have had good experiences with ceramic coating, but for me, I won't do anything other than stainless ever again (if I get another V10, my current one is sold and awaiting pickup).
The OP says he's reusing the stock manifolds, so the following doesn't mean much, but I gotta say it anyway:
2-valves do get a decent bump in upper-end-power, and the sound is not bad if you use headers that have a thick-enough wall. Whatever you do, stay away from the Heddmans. Get stainless, and don't look back. Even ceramic coated, they are destined to rot somehow if you nick the finish during installation or at any other time.
Now, saying that, a lot of people here have had good experiences with ceramic coating, but for me, I won't do anything other than stainless ever again (if I get another V10, my current one is sold and awaiting pickup).
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As for me, I'm becoming more of the mind of leaving things stock....or at least doing more research before changing things. That opinion is exclusively for the 3V motors which actually have a really good factory manifold...I should've just kept my $650 and reused stock manifolds. Ya live and ya learn!
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Thanks for the info. I'm tiring to get done as cheap as possible. Just bought the excursion a couple weeks ago and started a keep and fix everything or do minimum and look for non rusty thread. Most of the feed back I got was not to dump a bunch of money in this one and look for one less crusty. That said I gotta fix the studs. It's one of the reasons I got this one so cheap.
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From: Long Island USA
Thanks for the info. I'm tiring to get done as cheap as possible. Just bought the excursion a couple weeks ago and started a keep and fix everything or do minimum and look for non rusty thread. Most of the feed back I got was not to dump a bunch of money in this one and look for one less crusty. That said I gotta fix the studs. It's one of the reasons I got this one so cheap.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Ak
If you can get the manifolds out of the way, that helps a lot. You just need to leave enough to grab. On my f150 , I heated all the studs until orange with a torch. Came right out. Get a good tap,clean the threads.
Have fun.
Have fun.
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From: Fort Smith, Arkansas
If the stud is going to break, there is already a predetermined point where it will break based on oxidization and fatigue.
And whether or not the nut is on or off will have zero effect on the studs current tensile strength.
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From: Utah
You bet! And yes, I saw he is planning to, but I thought you may want to give him a nudge towards headers if he was on the fence.
As for me, I'm becoming more of the mind of leaving things stock....or at least doing more research before changing things. That opinion is exclusively for the 3V motors which actually have a really good factory manifold...I should've just kept my $650 and reused stock manifolds. Ya live and ya learn!
As for me, I'm becoming more of the mind of leaving things stock....or at least doing more research before changing things. That opinion is exclusively for the 3V motors which actually have a really good factory manifold...I should've just kept my $650 and reused stock manifolds. Ya live and ya learn!
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I dont dislike them specifically. They just didn’t give me the payback I was looking for. Wish I’d have just saved my money, but they’re coming off tomorrow evening and I’d love to find them a new, loving home at a fair price.
I will say this though, the JBA gaskets are garbage. That’s the only reason I’m pulling them and going back to manifolds and studs. If anyone reading this with a 3V wanting headers, go ahead and get some felpro or OEM gaskets. I’m just replacing everything back to stock so I don’t have to fool with bolt tightening maintenance constantly to avoid leaks. I’ve got a 3 month old at home and very little time I want to spend on my truck.