Nice work!

 

Yeah I just thought about that!
I am NOT a paint expert, but I have tried to color sand single stage enamel
before. I had to repaint a trunk lid, after that. It cut some of the metallic out and made it look bad.
I am done with metallics...until I have more money for better equipment and training.

 

If you are going to color sand a paint make sure it's a paint that should be color sanded. Low cost single stage (non catalyzed) enamels typically should not be color sanded. Enamels dry from the outside in. It skins over and touch dries fairly quickly, but that skin keeps the relatively slow drying solvents from migrating out from underneath. The paint remains "tender" for a long time depending on thickness, sometimes as long as six months or more. Sanding though the skin exposes the soft underlayer which oxidizes readily and dulls. Check with the paint manufacturer to see if they recommend color sanding and if so how long to let it harden first, and follow their recommendations. Since enamels use much more opaque pigments, the metallic particles are designed to float to the surface, where they are readily sanded thru. Sometimes using better quality paints can be more forgiving. Basecoat clearcoat paints are actually a lot easier to use, especially with HVLP spray equipment, each coat can easily be repaired or reworked, and the newest waterborne base coats are the easiest of all, make a major mistake just simply wash the panel off before it dries and respray. Waterborne is much safer to use, just a simple particle mask and lint free clothing are adequate. Waterborne is more sensitive to mixing, application thickness and will not fill scratches like solvent borne, so the under surface prep is more critical.

 

I used single stage Urethane (in a well ventilated space with a tyvek body suit with hood, gloves, eye protection, and a good respirator with New charcoal filters for each use) which has an activator/catalyst that hardens it (not air dried). It can be color sanded and buffed, but it looks really good, with almost no orange peel, and I think that I will just leave it alone. This is going to be a daily driver and a few defects won't bother me in the least. I will learn on some other paint job down the road - if I ever do anymore.

 

Hey Topper,
I think "leaving it alone" is a good approach. If you "make it perfect"
then every little dent/scratch etc. will make you paranoid. Even with the best intentions stuff will happen to your paint.

- Our hood fits almost perfectly but not quite - it rubbed the paint off in
a conspicuous spot up front.
- Multiple guys at the local mechanics shops don't know how to open or close the hood & end up slamming it down - cracking the paint & denting it under the nose...Grrr..
- Even after doing everything possible we have a "pop mark" on the driver's door where rust is coming through...
- My son threw the spare tire in the back - there goes the powdercoating..

Stuff happens - I wouldn't go for perfect unless you are going to leave it parked in the garage & trailer it to shows. This might be your first time at painting but it looks really good! Looking forward to seeing it on the road. I'll meet you half way in Brenham or College Station.

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Ben, when I do get it running I will be driving it to Austin anyway. My brother in law moved back from Australia. Their home is in Travis Heights near Woodward and I 35 which they kept while in Australia for the last two years. I still have a ways to go to get it running, doors, bed, interior, drive shaft, heat/AC, and lots of little things. The only thing that I am not going to do myself, other than having had the motor professionally rebuilt, is the interior. I know a great shop here in Houston that is very reasonable.
When I do get it going and head for Austin I will let you know and maybe meet for lunch somewhere. What part of Austin are you in? And, I am not the trailer queen type - I just don't see the point in spending all the time and money if I wasn't going to use it and drive it.

 

Hey Topper,
I'm on the North side of the river. When you come in Hwy 290 take a right on 183 & head west about 5 miles - Anderson Mill/Hwy 620 area. Looking forward to seeing your beautiful truck.

We left the interior of our truck very basic - 1950 bench seat look.
I wanted to be able to do a little work with the truck so no carpet - just some sprayed in bedliner. (Well it has A/C, stereo, alarm, turn signals - so not that basic).

Ben in Austin
1950 F1

 

Hey guys, I got a 51 F1 project and I dont have the window regulator covers for the inside of doors,are they available or do I just fab them out of sheet metal?

 

I look forward to it. It will be a few more months though - my work is about to get really busy and I still have a lot to do! Maybe by early summer.

 

Hello Coach b, welcome to the forum! You might try Dennis Carpenter or LMC, I am not sure if they have them or not. You also might want to go to the homepage, 1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums and click "New Thread" on the left above the thread titles and ask there. Many more members will be able to see it and you can get better answers.
And be prepared to offer up pictures of your truck which you can do via Photobucket (or similar) and post a link.
I post pictures here by "go advanced" post. There is a toolbox at the top, click the paper clip icon. That will open a box that will take you to your desktop of other locations to get a picture. It has to be small enough, but if it is you enter it and upload it. Then you can hit "preview post" and make sure it is there and correct. Good luck.

 

You can find them on Ebay at times, or on the classified section here. I didn't see them on LMC's website, and don't have a Classic Haulers catalog handy to check.

Making them is also an option as they are basically a rectangle with a rolled edge.

Welcome to the site.

You will have better luck if you start a new thread instead of tacking it on to an existing build thread.

 

Small steps, got the grill back on with the headlights and the parking/blinkers. Also cleaned up the old F O R D and put them on. Not a good pic, but it is dark...

 

Got the hood back on and got it adjusted - after this picture. We also scratched the paint next to the R on the front
But not a big deal as there is going to be more paint down the road when I get the bed and rear fenders ready to install.
The woodie idea is just going to wait for a while. My plan is to get this one running and driving then do my '65 F100 (most of the mechanics are already done on it including a rebuilt 460 and C6 already installed with the drive shaft less the exhaust). After the '65 is done the F1 comes back to the garage to make it into a woodie. I am thinking in long term projects here.

 

Looks good Topper, I would have never guessed that this was your first paint job, you can be very proud of it. You probably see every small flaw that nobody else will ever notice. Thats how I am, I did mine a year and a half ago and just ordered a new air brush from Eastwood for the dings (they happen), and have enough paint left (two stage enamel) to scuff and re-shoot a panel if necessary. But I will probably never get around to it. Your whole project looks great from frame,IFS, brakes, steering colum, dash and on up. Nice build thread.

 

I'm a big spies Becker and glasurit fan. The clear coat makes a huuugggeee difference