Damn auto correct spelling spies hecker

 

Thanks, always great to get some positive feedback.

 

Nice work Topper. You have talent!!

 

Thank you, coming from you and what I have seen of your work that is a very high compliment. I have been following your build and it is great.

 

Topper,
When I was a young man I worked for a bodyshop and the owner tried his best to teach me how to paint and cure dents, we finally parted as friends when he told me that I was one hell of a mechanic but I was pure hell as a bodyman.

So, when I see guys like you,,,,that do it all,,,and do it well,,,I am in awe.

Your paint job looks great, be proud of your skills.

Gary

 

Thanks Gary, my body work leaves a lot to be desired, as much as I try to get it perfect there is always some flaw that I didn't see or just gave up on. As far a spraying, I guess spraying thousands of gallons of clear lacquer on cabinets and furniture over the years helped with technique. One trick that I have learned the hard way is that when you are spraying poly spray two light coats (they will not be fluid - almost looks like heavy overspray) and let them flash for about ten minutes each. Then you can put on a heavier coat and it won't run because it sticks to the first two. If I could ever get the prep perfect I think I could be good at this
And, I have to say, I love to see your genius at work! I love the way you make your own rules and make them work.

 

Blue is probably the most difficult color to paint since it is very transparent compared to other colors especially when metallic, so it shows banding if you don't get it on very evenly. A couple things that help is to use a very dark grey primer or if you want a lighter blue than the dark primer will give you, have the primer tinted a similar shade of blue.

 

Awesome work. Subscribed

 

Thanks in large part to 48 Steel and pictures of his, I am attempting to make my hood into a reverse tilt opening one. I made a left and a right plate to attach an interior hood frame to make it rigid. I had to remove the radiator dam, hopefully with my large electric fan (not yet installed) that won't be a problem. One end of the frame attaches at the original hinge point and the other I bolted to the holes in the hood rim toward the front. On the front bar I have welded a rod that swivels with two adjustable rod end bearings. On my radiator support I made a plate with a square rod that will swivel up and down with a threaded hole for a bolt to go into the rod end bearings. The idea is that when I release the stock hood latch (safety latch removed) it will lift up and then when lifted near the windshield and tilted it will lift up at the front as the swivel point straightens out. It should be enough to push the hood towards the front bumper enough to stand up almost straight. I still haven't tried it yet but wanted to post some of the pics/progress.

 

The rest of the pictures.

 

It's looking good Topper, I sure hope your keeping good notes and detailed drawing for all of use dummys out here. You said you had to remove the air damm, couldn't you notch it around your subframe and retain it? It not only helps force air through the radiator but it helps to stiffin and support the hood.

At the firewall end, are you going to use the roller and guide system like the mid fifty trucks use?

I'm just trying to climb in your head on this so I can understand the whole system.

 

Gary,
I am going to use something similar to the roller and guide - more like a pin and guide. The trick with that is to have it clear my firewall mounted master cyl/booster. With the frame that I have made the hood is probably even stiffer than it was with the air dam. It may be possible to use it if you make the frame differently than I have, but this is the way I went. I am trying a couple of possibilities for the arm to lift and push the hood forward to clear the front. What I have now with the rod end bearings it will actually swivel too much. I am thinking about trying a curved rod (maybe kind of ">" shaped) on each side that will first take the hood up and then as it opens to vertical it will push it out. The geometry of this is driving me crazy, if I could just fit under the hood with lights and have somebody open it.... I have a hard time when trying to think backwards or upside down, I guess I am a linear, or 2D thinker. But I am persistent and will keep trying until I figure it out.

 

LOL,,, I know exactly what your talking about because I'm pretty much a single dimension type too, if I can't see it or touch it, I'm lost. After another look at your Pic's I can see that the hood is a lot more rigid than stock,,,I bow in humiliation.

 

LOL, So far it is just a metal frame that does nothing. Until I actually get it to work - as in opening the hood - I haven't done anything except spend time and a little money on a fabricating exercise. But, that is what this is all about for me. I am used to working with wood building what I already know how to build since I have been doing it for so long. This is a real learning experience for me, and when things work it is great even if it takes quite a few tries.

 

Your tilt hardware looks great. You will like how much room you will have to work in the engine compartment. Thanks for mentioning my tilt.


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48 Ford F1 - Darkside
46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod