My build thread
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Looks good Topper, I would have never guessed that this was your first paint job, you can be very proud of it. You probably see every small flaw that nobody else will ever notice. Thats how I am, I did mine a year and a half ago and just ordered a new air brush from Eastwood for the dings (they happen), and have enough paint left (two stage enamel) to scuff and re-shoot a panel if necessary. But I will probably never get around to it. Your whole project looks great from frame,IFS, brakes, steering colum, dash and on up. Nice build thread.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Thank you, coming from you and what I have seen of your work that is a very high compliment. I have been following your build and it is great. 
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
Topper,
When I was a young man I worked for a bodyshop and the owner tried his best to teach me how to paint and cure dents, we finally parted as friends when he told me that I was one hell of a mechanic but I was pure hell as a bodyman.
So, when I see guys like you,,,,that do it all,,,and do it well,,,I am in awe.
Your paint job looks great, be proud of your skills.
Gary
When I was a young man I worked for a bodyshop and the owner tried his best to teach me how to paint and cure dents, we finally parted as friends when he told me that I was one hell of a mechanic but I was pure hell as a bodyman.
So, when I see guys like you,,,,that do it all,,,and do it well,,,I am in awe.
Your paint job looks great, be proud of your skills.
Gary
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Topper,
When I was a young man I worked for a bodyshop and the owner tried his best to teach me how to paint and cure dents, we finally parted as friends when he told me that I was one hell of a mechanic but I was pure hell as a bodyman.
So, when I see guys like you,,,,that do it all,,,and do it well,,,I am in awe.
Your paint job looks great, be proud of your skills.
Gary
When I was a young man I worked for a bodyshop and the owner tried his best to teach me how to paint and cure dents, we finally parted as friends when he told me that I was one hell of a mechanic but I was pure hell as a bodyman.
So, when I see guys like you,,,,that do it all,,,and do it well,,,I am in awe.
Your paint job looks great, be proud of your skills.
Gary
And, I have to say, I love to see your genius at work! I love the way you make your own rules and make them work.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
Likes: 88
From: Durham NC
Blue is probably the most difficult color to paint since it is very transparent compared to other colors especially when metallic, so it shows banding if you don't get it on very evenly. A couple things that help is to use a very dark grey primer or if you want a lighter blue than the dark primer will give you, have the primer tinted a similar shade of blue.
Junior User
Joined: Dec 2012
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Thanks in large part to 48 Steel and pictures of his, I am attempting to make my hood into a reverse tilt opening one. I made a left and a right plate to attach an interior hood frame to make it rigid. I had to remove the radiator dam, hopefully with my large electric fan (not yet installed) that won't be a problem. One end of the frame attaches at the original hinge point and the other I bolted to the holes in the hood rim toward the front. On the front bar I have welded a rod that swivels with two adjustable rod end bearings. On my radiator support I made a plate with a square rod that will swivel up and down with a threaded hole for a bolt to go into the rod end bearings. The idea is that when I release the stock hood latch (safety latch removed) it will lift up and then when lifted near the windshield and tilted it will lift up at the front as the swivel point straightens out. It should be enough to push the hood towards the front bumper enough to stand up almost straight. I still haven't tried it yet but wanted to post some of the pics/progress.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
It's looking good Topper, I sure hope your keeping good notes and detailed drawing for all of use dummys out here. You said you had to remove the air damm, couldn't you notch it around your subframe and retain it? It not only helps force air through the radiator but it helps to stiffin and support the hood.
At the firewall end, are you going to use the roller and guide system like the mid fifty trucks use?
I'm just trying to climb in your head on this so I can understand the whole system.
At the firewall end, are you going to use the roller and guide system like the mid fifty trucks use?
I'm just trying to climb in your head on this so I can understand the whole system.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
Gary,
I am going to use something similar to the roller and guide - more like a pin and guide. The trick with that is to have it clear my firewall mounted master cyl/booster. With the frame that I have made the hood is probably even stiffer than it was with the air dam. It may be possible to use it if you make the frame differently than I have, but this is the way I went. I am trying a couple of possibilities for the arm to lift and push the hood forward to clear the front. What I have now with the rod end bearings it will actually swivel too much. I am thinking about trying a curved rod (maybe kind of ">" shaped) on each side that will first take the hood up and then as it opens to vertical it will push it out. The geometry of this is driving me crazy, if I could just fit under the hood with lights and have somebody open it....
I have a hard time when trying to think backwards or upside down, I guess I am a linear, or 2D thinker. But I am persistent and will keep trying until I figure it out. 
I am going to use something similar to the roller and guide - more like a pin and guide. The trick with that is to have it clear my firewall mounted master cyl/booster. With the frame that I have made the hood is probably even stiffer than it was with the air dam. It may be possible to use it if you make the frame differently than I have, but this is the way I went. I am trying a couple of possibilities for the arm to lift and push the hood forward to clear the front. What I have now with the rod end bearings it will actually swivel too much. I am thinking about trying a curved rod (maybe kind of ">" shaped) on each side that will first take the hood up and then as it opens to vertical it will push it out. The geometry of this is driving me crazy, if I could just fit under the hood with lights and have somebody open it....
I have a hard time when trying to think backwards or upside down, I guess I am a linear, or 2D thinker. But I am persistent and will keep trying until I figure it out.
Elder User
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 728
Likes: 2
From: North Idaho
Gary,
I am going to use something similar to the roller and guide - more like a pin and guide. The trick with that is to have it clear my firewall mounted master cyl/booster. With the frame that I have made the hood is probably even stiffer than it was with the air dam. It may be possible to use it if you make the frame differently than I have, but this is the way I went. I am trying a couple of possibilities for the arm to lift and push the hood forward to clear the front. What I have now with the rod end bearings it will actually swivel too much. I am thinking about trying a curved rod (maybe kind of ">" shaped) on each side that will first take the hood up and then as it opens to vertical it will push it out. The geometry of this is driving me crazy, if I could just fit under the hood with lights and have somebody open it.... I have a hard time when trying to think backwards or upside down, I guess I am a linear, or 2D thinker. But I am persistent and will keep trying until I figure it out.
I am going to use something similar to the roller and guide - more like a pin and guide. The trick with that is to have it clear my firewall mounted master cyl/booster. With the frame that I have made the hood is probably even stiffer than it was with the air dam. It may be possible to use it if you make the frame differently than I have, but this is the way I went. I am trying a couple of possibilities for the arm to lift and push the hood forward to clear the front. What I have now with the rod end bearings it will actually swivel too much. I am thinking about trying a curved rod (maybe kind of ">" shaped) on each side that will first take the hood up and then as it opens to vertical it will push it out. The geometry of this is driving me crazy, if I could just fit under the hood with lights and have somebody open it....
I have a hard time when trying to think backwards or upside down, I guess I am a linear, or 2D thinker. But I am persistent and will keep trying until I figure it out. LOL,,, I know exactly what your talking about because I'm pretty much a single dimension type too, if I can't see it or touch it, I'm lost. After another look at your Pic's I can see that the hood is a lot more rigid than stock,,,I bow in humiliation.
Thread Starter
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 3,222
Likes: 6
From: Houston
LOL, So far it is just a metal frame that does nothing. Until I actually get it to work - as in opening the hood - I haven't done anything except spend time and a little money on a fabricating exercise. But, that is what this is all about for me. I am used to working with wood building what I already know how to build since I have been doing it for so long. This is a real learning experience for me, and when things work it is great even if it takes quite a few tries.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 879
Likes: 40
From: Colorado Springs /Mesa AZ
Thanks in large part to 48 Steel and pictures of his, I am attempting to make my hood into a reverse tilt opening one. I made a left and a right plate to attach an interior hood frame to make it rigid. I had to remove the radiator dam, hopefully with my large electric fan (not yet installed) that won't be a problem. One end of the frame attaches at the original hinge point and the other I bolted to the holes in the hood rim toward the front. On the front bar I have welded a rod that swivels with two adjustable rod end bearings. On my radiator support I made a plate with a square rod that will swivel up and down with a threaded hole for a bolt to go into the rod end bearings. The idea is that when I release the stock hood latch (safety latch removed) it will lift up and then when lifted near the windshield and tilted it will lift up at the front as the swivel point straightens out. It should be enough to push the hood towards the front bumper enough to stand up almost straight. I still haven't tried it yet but wanted to post some of the pics/progress.
________________________________________
48 Ford F1 - Darkside
46 Ford Tudor - Street Rod
