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1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 1987 - 1996 Ford F-150, F-250, F-350 and larger pickups - including the 1997 heavy-duty F250/F350+ trucks

NEED HELP!!!!

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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 06:14 PM
  #1  
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NEED HELP!!!!

I have a 1990 Ford f150 2x4 with a 5.0 in it. The problem i am having is that i cant time the truck. the only way the truck will start is with the distributor turned damn near all the way counterclockwise. with it turned thisway the truck starts extremely hard but will start. i can turn it back from there and get it to run right but then if i shut it off it will not start again it just cranks. i have replaced the complete distributor, ecm, plugs, plug wires, timing set, map sensor, etc... and i cant get the problem to get any better. i have checked all the connections and they are all good with no broken or burnt wires. also if i remove the spout connecter it runs a little better but still wont start. ive also checked to see if im a tooth out and im not.

any ideas?
 
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Old Jan 6, 2013 | 11:37 PM
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anyone? i know i cant be the only person who has had this problem.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 11:44 AM
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Are you trying to time it w/ the SPOUT connector in place?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 06:30 PM
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i can time it if it is already running. if i shut it off it will not start again. i have to turn the distributor back to where it started out in order to get the truck to start.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 06:37 PM
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Are you trying to time it w/ the SPOUT connector in place, or while removed?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 07:05 PM
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im not really tryin to time it. im trying to figure out why it will only start with the distibutor in one certain position. if i try to move it while it is running with the spout unpluged it will stay running if i move it with it plugged in it will start missing and die. it runs like crap iether way. i have replaced damn near everything short of a motor.
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 07:47 PM
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Did you replace or test the ICM (TFI Module)?
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 08:08 PM
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Make sure you have not jumped time a few links .
 
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Old Jan 7, 2013 | 10:21 PM
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i already plugged my little reader thing into it and cant get any codes. i also installed a new timing set tho it didnt need it.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 07:26 AM
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im starting to think it has absolutely nothing to do with the timing or the distributor but have no idea where to start.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56



Did you replace or test the ICM (TFI Module)?

Well? Did you?

I believe it is mounted on the driver side wheel well on a 93'. If not, it will be attached directly to the distributor.

Its primary purpose is to send the hall-effect signal indicating top dead center on the number one cylinder to the electronic engine control (EEC-IV).

The computer then takes the signal and the pulse rate and determines the rpm. The computer sends a signal to the control module when to fire the coil. The control module automatically controls the dwell for sufficient saturation of the coil windings to give the proper spark duration given the rpm in real time.

Originally Posted by scappoosefordman
im not really tryin to time it. im trying to figure out why it will only start with the distibutor in one certain position. if i try to move it while it is running with the spout unpluged it will stay running if i move it with it plugged in it will start missing and die. it runs like crap iether way. i have replaced damn near everything short of a motor.
This symptom suggests either the TFI or the hall-effect (PIP sensor/ Stator) or worse scenario, the ECU itself. You replaced the distributor (therefore the PIP sensor/Stator inside it), so the next thing to check is the TFI. Easily removed to have bench checked at any auto parts store.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by ymeski56
Well? Did you?

I believe it is mounted on the driver side wheel well on a 93'. If not, it will be attached directly to the distributor.

Its primary purpose is to send the hall-effect signal indicating top dead center on the number one cylinder to the electronic engine control (EEC-IV).

The computer then takes the signal and the pulse rate and determines the rpm. The computer sends a signal to the control module when to fire the coil. The control module automatically controls the dwell for sufficient saturation of the coil windings to give the proper spark duration given the rpm in real time.



This symptom suggests either the TFI or the hall-effect (PIP sensor/ Stator) or the TFI ore worse scenario, the ECU itself. You replaced the distributor (therefore the PIP sensor/Stator inside it), so the next thing to check is the TFI. Easily removed to have bench checked at any auto parts store.

that was my fault. i thought u were tryin to show me where the plug was to check codes. i will change that out and see what happens. i have another truck sittin there to rob parts off of that runs fine so ill pull that off and plug it in and see if it helps.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 03:11 PM
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has it always been like this? are you sure the distributor is in right?
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 03:16 PM
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we were drivin it one day about a year ago and it just died. the computer went bad in it. so we changed it out and its had this problem ever since. and it has been parked since then. ive been tinkerin with it here and there tryin to figure it out and finally decided i should start askin around and get some outside advice.

we also have changed the computer again since this problem began just to eliminate it as being the source.
 
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Old Jan 8, 2013 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by scappoosefordman
we were drivin it one day about a year ago and it just died. the computer went bad in it. so we changed it out and its had this problem ever since. and it has been parked since then. ive been tinkerin with it here and there tryin to figure it out and finally decided i should start askin around and get some outside advice.

we also have changed the computer again since this problem began just to eliminate it as being the source.
This may sound strange , but have you checked your power and grounds ? I have seen some strange problems caused by bad grounds and low voltage . If the ecm fried while driving you could have a wiring issue or a sensor drawing down your ref. voltage . Start with a close look at grounds .Ck resistance , then ck voltage drop . Heck , you have tried everything else .
 
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