Hi guys.

I'm wondering if anyone knows the basic dimensions for the headliner panel for my '76 F100 standard cab.

With the moisture I'm Seattle mine has crumbled and fallen out on chunks. I do have the trim but want to see what the actual size is accounting for the curves and bends.

Mine is busted to the point where I can't really reassemble it accurately.

I'm looking at getting a cedar ply for the new panel and I'm fuzzy about whether the precut 4x2 or 4x4 panels have enough material. The 4x8 sheets are stupid spendy. I'll opt for org board or something if I need a sheet that big.

Second question: what do you guys use for insulation and moisture barrier? I'd like to keep the new one dry and quiet.

Thanks!

 

Hey Drew, haven't heard from you since your "event" with the wheel.
I've got a new (reproduction) headliner. It's made from a cardboard like material. The dimensions at the widest points are 53 3/4" wide X 28 1/8" deep.
As for insulation I've seen dynamat (expensive) used. I've also seen a similar material from Lowe's or Home Depot used, and spray foam, and fiberglass and even newspapers.

 

Hey Mike! Yeah, I've been lurking of late. I've decided it's too sucky and cold out to redo the corner that got buffered when the wheel came off so I'm going to redo the cab instead. Headliner and LEDs in the panel.

Thanks for the specs and protips on materials. I was pondering using a jute-like pad that I got from my brother after he made a custom headliner for his 4x4 but it seems its really just a blanket he got from a moving truck. Might still work in a pinch. I'll look into the options you mentioned at home depot on the way home.

been watching the pumpkin thread.

Just waiting for the body to start showing up!

 

I bought some wall paneling from Home Depot. Can't remember what its called, but its only like 1/8" and flexible but sturdy. I think I paid 8 or 10 bucks for a 4x8 sheet. Laid out the metal trim, traced it a little big and cut it with a jigsaw. Got some fabric that I liked for cheap and stuck it on with Super77. Total cost was about $25 and it took me 2 or 3 hours. Sorry about the cell phone pics...

 

Another option for the Seattle area is 1/8" ABS plastic as a backing material. In my gallery I've got my step by step of how to make a supercab headliner out of that stuff, so I'm sure you could use the information from that for ideas. The ABS isn't cheap, but it doesn't rot, it bends easily enough, and shouldn't warp too easily either. I think I got the two sheets of it somewhere up near Renton, but can't remember the place specifically. Anyway, just my $0.02 on the subject.

 

I did the exact same thing but used head liner glue. The super 77 tends to fall down in hot areas.

See my thread here.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html

 

Oh my gosh. I have no headliner to trace for my supercab and had been pondering how to measure to make a new one. I have all the trim. It never dawned on me to lay out the trim! Genius!

 

Heres what I would use.

1/8" pvc foam board, fatmat or some sort of cheaper dynamat alternative, and some sort of insulation mat.

Ive been using pvc foam board a lot lately. Way lighter than ABS because its expanded board, not solid. And way cheaper. Will hold up to moisture unlike wood. Cuts easy with a utility knife. Sign and plastic shops should carry it. Usually comes in white.

Depending on the amount of insulation you need you can pick up some dynamat alternative off ebay for a decent price.
fatmat in Acoustic Dampening Materials | eBay

insulation mat.
Thermozite Insulator Padding - Sound & Heat Solution

 

I removed my headliner to make a new one but haven't done so yet. My 73's standard cab headliner measures 54 inches wide at the rear corners (widest points) and the deepest dimension fore and aft is 28 inches. Therefore, a 4x4 panel won't work.. regardless if it is oriented from corner to corner (the hypotenuse).

However, consider fabbing up an overhead console with map lights (plus switch panel or whatever else ya want). Build a wire frame out of steel rod, weld it together, wrap it in fiberglass fleece, and then apply the resin. Finish it with bodywork and paint... this is the same technique that shops do for custom speaker enclosures. Easy to do but it does take time. The faboo benefit is that it looks/works bad azz if done right.

Materials - ABS plastic as suggested above is likely the choice material. Also consider luan plywood, pressboard, shower stall surround (waterproof on one side), or fiberglass backsplash material used in restaurants. The latter is kinda flimsy so consider gluing/applying a heavy fabric/upholstery to the backside to increase its mass and density.

Insulation - I suggest applying a sound deadener like Dynamat (Fatmat, Acoustimat, or equivalent) to the sheetmetal. Over that, consider applying Acoustishield (or equivalent) to address heat/cold convection and conduction.

The reason headliners warp is due to condensation that forms on the uninsulated interior surface of the roof. I have observed the phenomenon when my rig was parked on the north side of my house. The condensation, in turn, either drips straight down on the headliner or collects and runs down to the inside roof rails thus causing the dreaded roof rail rot. It typically doesn't rust from the outside due to bad caulking along the rain gutter... Rather, it rusts from the inside out.

 

I'll look into that as well as the PVC paneling that crsweet78 mentioned. The location I went to this evening was out of anything useful so I'll try again this weekend.

The other consideration I have in addition to the climate is that I am planning to mount a small speaker system up into the panel- basically a desktop speaker MP3 system mounted upside down overhead so whatever I use needs to be able to support a pound or so of weight. I'll likely reinforce it but that makes anything too flimsy problematic.

What I REALLY wish I could use would be some sort of true wood tongue and groove flooring but the bends are just too much I imagine.

Great suggestions though, you all have given me more avenues to explore than I had hoped for!

 

Excellent thanks!

And, I just snapped up a roll of fatmat on fleabay. Thanks for the link info!!

 

I like the t&g idea.. how about some fancy faux paneling?

 

Never used this stuff before so I have no idea how nice it is, but I read some reviews on another website and heard its pretty good stuff. Maybe it can give you some ideas for the wood paneling look.
Alsa Corp | FXSheeting : Product Info

 

I had restored my headliner on my 72 F250 and repainted the headliner as well as installed a layer of Zillamat (like dynamat but less expensive and better) and then installed a layer of 3/8" jute backed insulation over that for sound deadening. I recently did the same to my 74 F350 when I completely did a sound deadening project on that truck. Here's a few pics of the 72 headliner is project. 1st pic is before and no insulation. 2nd pic-one side shows the zillamat and other has zillmat and the jutebacked insulation layer over it. 3rd pic shows complete insulation. 4th pic is painting the headliner. 5th shows project done with restored chrome headliner trim from junkyard. I did a complete sound deadening project on both the 72 and 74 and huge difference on the 72 mainly due to fact that the 72 was a basic truck and the 74 is an XLT and actually had a decent amount of factory sound deadening insulation and carpet. If interested, here is a video of the 72 project:

 

Good stuff to know. I need to redo my liner this coming spring. I made mine years back. My neighbor redid his kitchen, and I took his refrigerator shipping box. Cut out a new panel, spray adhesive and black cloth from the fabric store. 6$ and an awesome looking liner. That is until my cab lights leaked rain water