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5.4 Coil Test ?

1968-Present E-Series Van/Cutaway/Chassis Econolines. E150, E250, E350, E450 and E550

5.4 Coil Test ?

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Old

Dec 31, 2012 | 08:32 AM

#1

gyrocopter1

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5.4 Coil Test ?

Is there a way to test a coil on a 5.4 engine coil on plug situation by removing the coil and testing it with an ohm meter or some other type of meter. The plugs have about 50 thous.miles, I have been told that a wide
plug gap can cause a coil to fail. I know that this ? has probably been asked before, any info will be appreciated.

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Old

Dec 31, 2012 | 11:52 AM

#2

joshofalltrades

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since the most common failure of these coils is to put out a weak spark that has trouble igniting your fuel only at certain times, usually while cruising in overdrive, they can be a bit hard to pinpoint the problem.
if yours are having a problem there, the most common trick for people with plenty of time and not much money, is to go out and buy one new coil and install it on #1, and take a test drive. if the problem is solved, great. if it isn't, move that new one to #2 and repeat. repeat this for all cylinders until you find the bad one.
obviously, thats a time consuming process, so people have looked for an easier way.
i remember hearing about someone on here who tested his by using an adjustable-gap spark indicator and visually inspected the spark each coil produced. i remember he said he had a coil or two that was obviously weaker than the rest, causing his misfire.

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Old

Dec 31, 2012 | 05:29 PM

#3

gyrocopter1

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coil problem

That sounds like one way a backyard mechanic could do it, I just received
a catalogue from Speedway Motors I think , that had them for $19.95,
that sounded fair, because I know what the dealership charges.Megabucks

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Old

Dec 31, 2012 | 09:33 PM

#4

joshofalltrades

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often the cheapo brands burn out in a pretty short time, so i would find someone who sells the motorcraft coils - we know those last a good number of years, as yours are probably still original.

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Old

Jan 1, 2013 | 08:33 AM

#5

PStruwing

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From: Lakefield Ontario

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oNotPromoteQF/> <w:LidThemeOther>EN-CA</w:LidThemeOther> <w:LidThemeAsian>X-NONE</w:LidThemeAsian> <w:LidThemeComplexScript>X-NONE</w:LidThemeComplexScript> <w:Compatibility> <w:BreakWrappedTables/> <w:SnapToGridInCell/> <w:WrapTextWithPunct/> <w:UseAsianBreakRules/> <w

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ontVertAlignInTxbx/> <w:Word11KerningPairs/> <w:CachedColBalance/> </w:Compatibility> <w:BrowserLevel>MicrosoftInternetExplorer4</w:BrowserLevel> <m:mathPr> <m:mathFont m:val="Cambria Math"/> <m:brkBin m:val="before"/> <m:brkBinSub m:val="--"/> <m:smallFrac m:val="off"/> <m:dispDef/> <m:lMargin m:val="0"/> <m:rMargin m:val="0"/> <m:defJc m:val="centerGroup"/> <m:wrapIndent m:val="1440"/> <m:intLim m:val="subSup"/> <m:naryLim m:val="undOvr"/> </m:mathPr></w:WordDocument> </xml><![endif]--> I have found on the COPs that the boots give out first before the coil. Change your boots first to see if problem goes away, much cheaper. I am sure that the misfire caused by a bad boot does more damage to the coil than the larger gap.

As for plug gap, unless you have modified your motor and have a custom tune, the plug gap should stay stock. To nuke the coil you are going to have to open up the gap quite a bit, which will delay the spark reducing your power, unless you have modified your motor. Anyone that tells me that they can feel the difference of a larger gap has a very sensitive.....

I have played with enough motors over the years to realise that the plugs are the last thing you modify, as you are trying to tune your new combination. You have to read the plugs to be sure you have a good tune and engine health, even with the electronics, just not as much as we use too.

As for the coils I put a full set of eBay Rally coils on 2 summers and 70,000 miles ago with no issues as of yet, as 2 factory units popped at 100,000 miles, one for sure due to a bad boot.
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Old

Jan 1, 2013 | 12:22 PM

#6

gyrocopter1

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Thanks for the info, will know better next time. On a trip last year in my 2001,less than 80,000 mi.started to break down headed to dealer I was stuck he said I needed plugs and one coil, about $600.00 . I told the tech to save the plugs as I wanted to see how bad they were. Went back to pick it up,different tech. different mgr. oh they threw them away.You can't win. I have read that you have to be very careful
when removing the plugs and have to take certain precautions as not to snap of the plug threads?

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Old

Jan 1, 2013 | 02:00 PM

#7

joshofalltrades

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your plugs would be the ones that only have about 3 threads holding them into the head. usually we don't have any problems removing them, but when you install them, use a torque wrench to get them to the exact spec, we shouldn't do these by feel like we can on many other cars
i like using an air ratchet (not impact) to remove plugs from these. it saves a lot of effort getting them out, but doesn't have enough torque to strip anything, it'll stall if it has a problem, and if that happens you're going for the penetrating oil and hand tools

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Old

Jan 2, 2013 | 05:04 AM

#8

JWA

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From: Reynoldsburg, Ohio

Here's something that might be useful as far as a COP tester: Waekon 76562 Cop Quick Probe Vs | eBay It would have two advantages IMHO: 1. DOA COP's could be immediately tested & 2. Relative strength of each COP could be compared. These can be found on FleaBay from time-to-time for less than shown in the above link, perhaps on-line elsewhere too.

Here's some info I thought was very thorough on plug changing, posted here on FTE earlier in 2012:

Quote:

Originally Posted by mwsF250
Consensus yet to be achieved!

But lots of sources for recommendations!

MYSELF, based on MY research and MY experiences and what I use on MY truck:
20-25 ft-lbs and dry threads. 20 on early heads with very few threads, 25 on later.

After decades of always using anti-seize, my current approach/experiment is to not use anti-seize on threads of nickel plated spark plugs (shiny silver threads) and change every 50K miles. This is based on the combination of theories that the nickel should not fuse to aluminum in 50 K miles, and that not using anti-seize reduces the risk of plugs loosening.

This is based on my OPINION that the 3 leading causes of spark plug thread damage are, in order:
1) Over or under torquing
2) Plugs loosening
3) Plugs seizing and pulling threads out when removed

Again, that is MY approach. And I do not yet have enough data to insist it is the right answer. All I can say is so far, so good.

If you choose to use anti-seize, remember that you need to reduce torque due to the lubrication qualities of the anti-seize! The stuff I use requires torque to be reduced by about 40%.

Quote:

Originally Posted by JWA
This ^^^ is probably one of the best, most informed and potentially THE reply to plugs on modular motors!! I have a list of 20+ threads dealing with this issue but they seem unnecessary now!

I'll personally continue using nickel-based anti-seize if only to assure me plugs won't be an issue during the 50K replacement. Torqued to 21 ft/lbs in my earlier 4-threads holes seems to be just about right, also based entirely upon MY OWN experience!

All the above info has been helpful to me and it does seem to be the more common practice with the Modular Motors, especially the earlier heads with 3-4 plug hole threads.

HTH

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