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I will be doing a thread on my build when I get closer to starting the engine, that way I can update in real time as I do the swap. I will put up some pics of the exhaust system when I mock it up for you. As I will probly have some questions about my turbo mounting and stuff.
Sounds great !
I'm still looking for a hx35 , all are 12cm on the hot side(
correct me if I'm wrong) the only way to get a 14 cm is to buy an updated housing - as was recommended on this thread ...
Ya, theyre all 12cm stock i believe. Which you could run, however i would lookin into an aftermarket housing. Right now im running the 12cm hot side with the wastegate just left open and seems to be fine. However i dont have an actual wastegate, one reason the turbo was so cheeap.
im real interested in your setup Hairy. did you even touch your manifolds? or just played with the Y pipe?
Not even the Y i cut the pipe right after the Y, modded a 90 and used the piece i cut off as the up pipe.
I had everything apart here not that long ago.. i should have taken pics. If all goes well it should be coming apart agian soon anyway. Going to kit the turbo and do some tidying up. Plan it out and be mindful of where to weld and where to clamp and it will all come back out relatively easy, mine does anyway, and doesnt even leak surprisingly. You guys with the later trucks have alot more room to work with than i do too. For real.. just looked at my dads 92 the other day, he has more room WITH the turbo than i did without one lol
When i get the 92 i may just have to see if my "kit" will work on it without modifying anything
I was on the fence about the HX35W myself. I did some math that I found on a turbo sizing thread I found on the web somewhere. I figured that a 35 will be good with a 14cm2 housing in a truck with a 3" down pipe and a turnedup pump. But in My MotorHome with my turned up aftermarket turbo cal pump,J2 cam,lightened rotaing assembly.Allison 4 speed and 19,000lbs of weight I need the HX40W 16cm2 housing and 4" down pipe to keep EGT's in check. I don't Know how to link to the site so I can't prove the math, But I followed the instructions for how to caculate air flow needed to make 18 to 24 psi with my computer dyno sheet from the J2 cam's air flow estamates at 3400rpm and it fell in the sweet spot for the HX40W This makes me think its not far off the mark. I hope so anyway.....
Kits pop up time to time, it may be easier to modify a kit than to work from scratch, especially since your truck is the one the kit was designed to fit.
Doesn't your brother have some Dodge buddies that can supply a turbo?
Kits pop up time to time, it may be easier to modify a kit than to work from scratch, especially since your truck is the one the kit was designed to fit.
Doesn't your brother have some Dodge buddies that can supply a turbo?
I found a hypermax kit in new jersey for $600 but that's too Rich for my blood .
Besides fabing one up from scratch is more fun - you of all people should know that ;-) .
Little brother had a stocker HX off of his 12 valve but he sold it way before I owned the idi .
They are out there and I'm sure in time I'll find what I'm looking for .
Lol, you sound about as cheap as me. I'm fabricating my own setup if I get to keep the truck, but then I don't want to cut out my firewall to stuff in the downpipe, plus I'm not sure it would fit under the cowling.
Maybe you should take a look at the twins route- I'm going to be running a pair of turbos off Mercedes OM617 diesels, they should be about the right size since those engines spin pretty fast. Not sure how your plastic inner fenders would like the heat though.
Twins always adds expense ....interesting thought though
Drain backs would be interesting to fab up .
I've seen remote mount turbo set ups , but again they use a pump to make sure the oil is returned to the sump .
In your case , the engine in the old bumpside then twins might work .
In my case , using the cdr valve drain is the best bet as far as easy ( read quick) fabrication ..
Yeah, plus you have the room to have the turbo right there with the pipe behind the engine.
If you want quick and dirty, find a PSD to yank parts off of. I'm not sure how much of the PSD stuff will swap over, but if you find an OBS truck in the junkyard you can take a good look and see what might work.