I have an 01 f250 i just put a new clutch in and now i have no clutch pedal, ive removed the cap on resivour and pused the rod in on cyl on transmission, then pused the clutch pedal many times and no change, there is about a 4" spot at the begging of the pedal there is nothing then it starts to get resistance start the truck it wont go in gear, start it in gear and holding the brakes the tires try to spin, i gotta get this thing figured out as i am traveling for holidays in two days all help is appreciated. Thanks Justin

 

I put a stock clutch in from oriellys the old clutch was a luk, and the flywheel was not the same so i replaced the flywheel too, the clutch does not fully release, if i start it out of gear it will not go in gear but if i start it in gear and hold the brake it will not move, like it is partially released and when i let out on the clutch it kills the engine

 

doubt its the m/s assy, but could it be that the clutchfork wasnt installed properly onto/snapped onto, the throwout bearing?

 

.spitballing but does a clutch master cylinder need to be bled like a brake master cylinder?
takes a hella long time and is best done on a bench vise.

never had to do a hydraulic clutch so thats why im asking...

 

If you didn't break into the hydraulics by disconnecting lines or replacing a master or slave cylinder there's no need to bleed it, that wouldn't be the problem. I think Tim is correct that the first things to check are an improper assembly at the shift fork and throwout bearing or an incompatible part.

If that checks out, keep going.

If you never broke into the hydraulics and have a lot of free travel before you get resistance on the pedal that means the throwout bearing is travelling an excessive amount before it engages the fingers on the pressure plate and you're prematurely running out of travel because the slave cylinder is "bottoming out". There is a large shouldered washer that goes on the end of the throwout bearing, this is what actually touches the pressure plate fingers and moves the PP away from the clutch plate. Are you positive this washer was installed because its exclusion would produce the symptoms you describe. It will also quickly destroy the TO bearing and PP since there's nothing to protect the bearing from the rotating PP fingers.

Next, the knurled rod that the slave cylinder actuation arm is attached to. I am not an expert on this exact tranny, but most other manuals I've worked on are adjustable in that the arm can be rotated on the shaft if a bolt is loosened. This is on the exterior of the transmission. Was this taken apart during the clutch replacement? If it was not installed at the same position, this will also result in these symptoms. Usually prior to disassembly it's marked with a paint marker or white out like you'd do for a distributor.

 

The only possible thing i can think that might not be right is the way the throw out bearing is on the fork. i might have put it on with the rolled edges not on the fork but i dont think i did. guess il pull it back out tonight and see whats wrong, worked all night last night on it nothing wanted to cooperate, hopefully everything goes smooth tonight.

 

This must be bled from the slave up. there is no bleeder screw. It may take multiple sessions to get it clear. Twist the slave cyl out and push the rod in slowly( count to 5) the let it out. I normally do this for 20 cycles. I've had to redo one once. Put a rag in the palm of your hand to cushion it. Good luck

Barney

 

gravity bleed! close bleeder pump 40 times slowly let sit 15 min. pump 40 times slowly [ so as not to whip air into fluid ] if it does not get better after a 3rd time replace master
hope that helps
danny

 

cant beat a mityvac press. bleeder for those challenging bleeds. well maybe you can considering the price.

 

If possible, bench-bleed the master cylinder, then re-install and bleed the whole system. This was the only fix I could find for a balky Ford Explorer clutch - no other bleeding method worked. Big pain in the neck.

 

can't be done. there is no bleeder screw. the above mentioned method is the Ford method and the only way I've ever got one to bleed out.

Barney

 

well guys got the trans out and everything looks good and in the right location, i held the slave cylinder in and had someone push the clutch pedal down and the rod only came out half way. how far should it come out?

 

well put tranny back in tried to mess with bleeding and nothing is making a difference, if i start the truck in gear it tries to move brakes will hold it, as soon as i let the pedal and inch off the floor it starts to fully grabe, the is still no resistance for the first 4 or so inches of pushing to pedal down

 

PULLED THE MASTER AND SLAVE CYLINDER OUT AND FOUND OUT THAT THE SLAVE CYLINDER IS NOT BIENG PUSHED OUT TO THE SNAP RING WHEN I PUSH THE MASTER CYLINDER IN, COULD THIS BE MY PROBLEM?

 

Is there more than one throw-out bearing possible for your application? Reminds me from back in the 60's when some friends were changing out TR4 full syncro transmissions in old TR-3's. Clutch would not engage because the stock throw-out bearing was about 1/4" thicker than the one used in the newer transmission. Just a thought.
Mike