Hi I was wondering if anyone could help me out with this. Jumped into my truck the other day, started it up attempted to put into gear & would not go was grinding every time I attempted to put in gear. I shut off engine & I could put into gear, was tough but it went in.Tried to start again & truck was moving when I started as if I had let out clutch. I went out just now, tried again & works just fine. I have noticed some leakage under the truck lately. I traced it back to master cylinder popped cap on it & front reservoir is low & leakage appears to be coming off back at booster. I checked reservoir for hydraulic clutch & it is topped off. Any ideas would be appreciated.

 

This exact thing happened to me - 81 F350 400 T18 4x4 mechanical clutch linkage.
Because of this + a different problem - excessive clutch chatter - I decided the time
had come to replace the clutch. I found plenty of things to explain the clutch chatter
but nothing stood out as the obvious cause of the behavior you & me both experienced,
so I have to assume something was sticking. I needed a new clutch, anyway....

-ct

 

Your clutch is not disengaging.

Most likely it's either: air in the lines, a bad slave, a bad clutch m/c or both.

Worst case is you need a new clutch and pressure plate.

Bleed the system and while someone else pushes the pedal, make sure your clutch has enough travel to disengage.

 

Remember, stosh, that I had this same phenomena with a mechanical clutch linkage. In my
case, it was apparent the truck had sat for a LONG time with water trapped between the
clutch disc & flywheel, as the pitting & corrosion of the flywheel between these two
components was extensive. I could find nothing else wrong anywhere.

I kinda now wish I had taken pictures.

 

if rear main seal leaked on the clutch, and then the truck was left to sit for an extended time, the disc will actually weld itself to the flywheel, and pressure plate. try bleeding the clutch, if that don't work, time for a new one

 

That's why I suggested bleeding and checking for dissengagement first.

If that doesn't work then it's time for a new one.

 

In addition to what stosh was saying, there is a pin on the side of the clutch pedal where the clutch slave cylinder attaches. In the eye of the clutch piston rod is a nylon bushing. Often this bushing will wear out, then the pin begins to wear. This results in shortened piston travel in the master cylinder, meaning you also have less travel in the slave cylinder. This results in the clutch not fully disengaging, making it hard, if not impossible, to get the transmission in gear.

The bushings are available from Ford, and probably from aftermarket suppliers. If the pin is worn, it will eat the new bushing up quickly. What I have done on several occasions is drop the clutch pedal and knock out the old pin. Get yourself a good Grade 8 bolt the same diameter as the pin. Be sure the smooth part of the bolt shank is long enough to reach all the way through the bushing. Tap the bolt in the pin hole and weld the bolt head to the pedal arm. Use a self locking nut with a flat washer to secure the rod/bushing and cut off the excess threads. Dress the rough end with a file.

 

i agree with stosh.i had this happen on a 91 ranger.fluid was low,due to a leaking hydraulic throw bearing.also check that bushing as well.these are simple checks,if they appear to be alright,then check clutch.good luck