Maybe down the road, Ill give what I have a shot first though, thanks

 

Hopefully all of this makes sense. I was able to find what I believe is the mark and have shown that mark with the yellow tape. There are two metal deals on the plastic cap, not sure what they are but in this picture the yellow tape/mark is closest to the metal strap on the right and of course as the coil is being shown in this picture it is over to the left.

With the choke wide open I am surprised at how far away the yellow tape is from a starting point The yellow tape is pretty much at the 5 o clock position now but the coil is within the tangs.

This shot shows just when the choke closes

And this shot shows the center mark or the highest ridge cast into the metal carb portion and the yellow taps lined up

With this setting I am sorta surprised at how much tension there is on the choke butterfly. Feels good and can be moved without a great effort just more than I would have guessed.

Would be hard to believe that the coil has become so twisted or distorted that it is out of character.

I guess what I am seeing is normal.

I was going to ask another question but it appears the question has been answered in that if I were to say sit in the truck with the truck key on it would have no affect on the coil as far as heating up as long as the truck was not running and I was wired into my stator terminal on the rear of alt which is where I planned to go.

Does all of this look Ok?

Now

 

I also wanted to show a shot of my linkages below my choke coil, this set-up does not look the same in the pict. you provided but I understand there are quite a # of different variations to this carb.

I guess I am concerned that I may be missing something so hopefully these pictures ( not easy, shooting in the dark with carb still bolted to intake ) will be clear enough so that maybe you could spot something if it were missing.









Thanks for everyones time/effort

 

The Autolite 2100/4100 and Motorcraft 2150 carburetors never used a fully electric choke. The early Autolite 2100/4100 carburetors used a thermostatic "hot air" choke, and the later Motorcraft 2150 used a thermostatic "hot air" choke with "electric assist."

The way the thermostatic "hot air" choke works is this:

Clean, filtered air from the air cleaner is pulled through the "fresh air" tube (a rubber hose that is connected to the carburetor air horn and attaches to an aluminum tube) and into the bottom of the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold, where the air is heated up when the engine is running. From there, the heated air goes back up through the insulated "hot air" tube (attached on the top of the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold) that connects to the choke cap. As the air gets hot, it closes the spring in the choke cap, which allows the choke plate to open up as the engine warms up to run on a leaner mixture.

This is the idea on how the stock thermostatic choke stove was originally setup:




The "electric assist" portion of the stock choke system found on the later Motorcraft 2150 carburetor does not work on its own like an aftermarket electric choke. In fact, it doesn't have to work at all in order for the choke to be effective. It is only there to "assist" the hot air choke in temperatures above 60 degrees, where it helps the choke come off sooner for cleaner emissions. It doesn't work at all when the weather is colder than 60 degrees. It connects from the choke cap by a wire that connects to the back of the alternator. This part of the choke is secondary, meaning the choke will work fine without it, but the choke will not work without the thermostatic "hot air" choke system.

Since you have late model EFI exhaust manifolds, you do not have the hot air choke stove chamber like the earlier carbureted exhaust manifolds had (see above picture) to connect the choke tubes. All you have to do is buy a universal Choke Stove Kit, Dorman 03840. You should be able to find this in the Help! section of most auto parts stores. This simple, cheap kit (about $20) is designed to bypass the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold and replace the stock choke tubes completely. The kit comes with a length of coiled up aluminum tubing that you can easily bend by hand, the tubing insulation, the hardware to mount the tube to the choke cap, and a little "dome" with a hole in one end for the tubing to push into. This dome clamps to the exhaust manifold or header pipe to trap the hot air when the engine is running and routes the hot air up to the choke cap:




Here is a picture of the universal Choke Stove Kit on my own truck. I have an Autolite 4100 with the stock thermostatic "hot air" choke (without electric assist):



The factory setup had a "fresh air" tube that routed from the carburetor air horn down to the bottom of the choke stove chamber on the exhaust manifold. This location provided filtered air because this area is located on the "filtered air" side of the air filter once the air cleaner is in place. I drilled a second hole on the other end of the dome that came in the Choke Stove Kit so that the hot air going into the choke cap would be filtered, more like how it originally was set up in the first picture. You can see where mine attaches to the carburetor air horn by the rubber hose right behind the choke cap.

The universal Choke Stove Kit doesn't use the "fresh air" portion of the hot air choke at all; it simply uses the insulated "hot air" tube to draw in hot air from under the choke stove dome that is clamped to the exhaust manifold or header.

The thermostatic "hot air" chokes works MUCH BETTER than the fully electric chokes found on all aftermarket carburetors in that the choke opening corresponds with the engine temperature. The engine gets the right amount of choke it needs, and because it uses hot air generated from the engine, it doesn't choke the engine when it isn't needed. By contrast, the fully electric chokes are run off a timer and needs a 12V power source. A fully electric aftermarket choke cap will not work correctly connected on the back of the alternator like the stock "electric assist" choke cap. These come off much too soon and will always reset anytime the engine is turned off. Which means the choke will turn on again every time the engine is started, even when the engine is already hot and doesn't need it.

 

Yep, you've got the mark and it's set right where it needs to be.
Stator is only making power when the alternator is turning. I have my '69 F100 wired there, and my '78 F150(according to factory diagrams) is pulling from there aswell.

Linkages all look complete to me. Only thing missing was the gunk and grime mine had. However, I'd lube up all of these linkages really well (yours look a bit corroded and rusted up) Make sure they move very freely.


Well, he's not lying. That is, in fact, exactly how it works and is suppose to be set up. However, I have found success with using just the choke and electric cap alone. The trick is to set the spring tension a little lighter (leaner) than the factory specs call for. Typically, looking on the rebuild sheet I posted, you'll notice that most of the time it calls for the cap to be set at 1 Rich or 2 Rich. I've had good success with setting the cap to 1 or 2 Lean depending on the time of year. Yes, i do have a winter setting and a summer setting. The lighter tension allows the coil to unwind a little quicker due to the lack of the hot-air tubes. Other cars I've done this too had headers on them and even if you put on the universal heat tube kit on them, I've found that the excessive header heat throws off the choke anyways.
Would running the heat tubes be better? Yes.
Do I like drilling out manifolds (broken tubes) since almost all of them are broke off inside? No.
Do I like constantly removing these lines to remove my valve cover? No.
Do I like the cleaner appearance without the lines? Yes.
That said I have done what I've done and it seems to work for me. Our temps range from 90* in the summer to as low as 25* in the winter, never had any real issues other then a slight adjustment when the average temps make a shift between summer and winter.
With that said, give it a try and see how you like it. I gave up cable chokes a loooonnng time ago. Got tired of the extra hole in my firewall and the extra **** in the dash.

 

This is all great information! One quick question. I have the same exhaust manifold Lariat was showing. My hot air tubes are long gone. How do those tubes attach to the hot air crossing on the manifold? Do they just slide or press in? I would like to re-use my orginal hot air crossing , but was wondering how the tubes attach, and now I am wondering if I need to drill out the old ones.

PS

Didn't they also use a hot water choke on the 2100/4100? I think the heater hose passed by the choke cap, held to the choke cap with a big clip.

 

Yeah you may have to drill them out. They were just mild steel tubes (1/8" i believe) and tend to rust out quickly. Chances are they are broke off in the manifold. Originally they would just slide in about 1/2" or so and were more or less an interference fit. Just get you some stainless brake line of the same size and bend you up some new ones.

Yeah before the electric assist the heat/dirt shield on the front part of the choke assembly also incorporated a partial hoop next to the choke cap to hold the heater hose to the cap for additional heat. Makes the regular cap work that much better when you have the hose right next to it.

 

This hot air deal will not work on the set-up I have now, the set-up I put on my carb is cast to look like it will accept a hot air line but in fact was never cast open meaning the hole was never drilled and so I either now find another casting ( I threw out my old one thinking I was done with this ) or I get an aftermarket electric choke, is that correct?

Aftermarket electric chokes are 70 dollars plus if you are referring to the one maybe by Holley ect but is there any coil/cap set-up that I may be able to find at the junkyard or thru other Ford owners that will just end this by working all on its own and not cost me two fingers. I do not want to have to fiddle with this any longer if possible. Thanks

 

What do you recommend to lube up the linkages ect, WD-40 is not going to cut it. Thanks

 

If WD40 won't free them up, you're gonna have to take them apart and clean them up by hand. They should work freely without any lube at all, understandably age and atmosphere takes it toll on things.

As for your choke cap, try it like I suggested. It works for me, should work for you and save you a few bucks. Nothing ventured, nothing gained. You CANNOT adapt a Holley or other aftermarket choke assembly(kit) to this carb. It won't bolt up and none of the linkages will work. Holley is for Holley as Edelbrock is for Edelbrock. Their choke caps *might* work and you can buy them separately. Since Holley worked hand-in-hand with Ford for many, many years I'll bet money that the Holley choke cap would fit and work in that Autolite carb. This would be an inexpensive option if using the Autolite choke cap bothers you.

 

They are not frozen, I was curious what you use to lube them up though, you suggested it in a prior post.

It does not bother me using the choke cap on their now, what bothers me is that I may or may not have something now that may or may not work. I thought that I was fixing this the correct way. I thought that I was merely up-dating the carb and not trying to re-engineer things.

If it does work than fantastic, if not than I have whole lot more time and money into one simple little issue with the truck than I should had I known better because at this point I may be even further away from a solution with even more incorrect parts than when I started because parts are now tossed never mind the time and aggravation.

My actions to re-actions so my responsibility and my problem.

 

Yeah WD40 is fine. Probably any other spray lube would work too. Just as long as the linkage moves freely, you're in business.

As for the choke, you're just gonna have to try it. Anytime you steer away from stock you're gonna run into issues. (in some cases, stock didn't mean it was right either!!) That's suppose to be the 'fun' part of it, making things work that aren't necessarily suppose to, or modifying to your liking. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. But if something this small bothers you to this extent, you might be in for a nasty treat within the rest of the truck. Be patient, experiment, ENJOY IT.

And on a side note, even if you were to switch to a different choke, who is to say it doesnt cause problems either. Or even another carb for that matter.
IMO Edelbrock has the WORST automatic choke system known to man in the aftermarket world. That pile of trash never seems to work right and if you try to refer to the rebuild sheets, it's vague, inconsistent, and useless. The specs even deviate from the Carter AFBs specs! You'd think they'd be the same!? (I have one -Carter AFB- on a truck and its choke works great btw...)

 

You have to be a little careful when mixing choke components as for some model years OEMs used more than just the choke coil on the carburetor. One of the more important parts was the heat valve which was often discarded because owners forgot to lube them with special spray lube that had graphite in it. They would then freeze up, usually partially closed, and cause a myriad of other problems depending upon how long they were driven like that. They worked well if they were lubed as they were designed to get the heat to build up in the engine faster. I-6s were simple but V-8 engines that used these had an exhaust cross flow through the intake manifold and some models had an EGR valve mounted on that runner. Some heat valves had the choke tubes running down through them. So the chokes were calibrated to work differently. Some used the heat tube and an electric choke and others just used the heat tube and still others just the electric choke.

The real problems came in when people replaced their V-8 intake manifolds with new manifolds (usually designed for previous years) that did not have the cross flow in order to get rid of the EGR system. They fit but if you didn't remove the heat valve then you had a problem. If you did remove it then the choke didn't work right and you had drivability problems when cold, fouled spark plugs, etc., etc., etc.

It is important to know what combination of emission equipment was used with any older carb that you want to use. You will have to check the tag on the carb and then look at the tech manual for that year to see what was used. A variety of choke springs, ports sizes, jets, switches, etc. were used to keep these engines running properly and these changed each model year. Some won't make much difference but others will. If you have no tag on the carb then it is a crap shoot as to whether you get it right or not.

I know this doesn't provide easy answers but I hope it helps you understand the complications and saves you a lot of frustration later on.

 

Thanks Pete, I am going to have to re-visit this I guess, it is bugging me, I am trying to get the brakes done now so it will be within the next few days so please stay tuned.

I just cant leave it as it! I was able to find some of the old parts I tossed so maybe that will help. I just do not want anything that may or may not work depending on climate conditions or whatever, I want it to work and if it does not than I want it too be broken, not fixed in the first place in a way the manuf. did not intend it too be. ( within reason of course, some things I understand we can get away with )

 

This may sound strange but engines that run right have low emissions and last longer. So fixing it to run correctly is really the right thing to do in many ways.