ATTA BOY! These choke caps are about as common as water.

Agreed, most if not all of those 2bbls are 2150 models. The one on the lower left is a Holley 4160 model 4bbl with the metering block and fuel bowls missing It must be either a factory Ford carb or retrofitted for a Ford as the choke on that carb is set to work with a factory heat-riser setup like the Autolite carbs do.

 

Thanks for the clarification, couple of questions
1- why the difference in prices, is it the quality of the unit? They appear to operate the same.
2- Looking at the pics it would appear that the spring just sits within the arm that is within or enclosed within this cup. How would I go about installing/adjusting the set-up. I am assuming that the spring has to be wound to certain degree or that there has to be a slight tension there in order for the two of them to move together as they should to open and close the choke.

Just thinking ahead, I will be picking up one that may work in the A.M and it sure would be nice to understand installation procedure before I get it.

 

What are the differences between 2100 and 2150s, are the carb interchangeable and it is only a metering difference. I guess its safe to assume by your response to bobbytnm that these choke caps are identical for a number of these Ford 2 barrels?

 

Napa wanted 75 dollars for that Echlin kit and the bag was already tore open prob pillaged for parts......Anyway I think I have found what I need today at the salvage yard thanks to a very nice complete 75 or 76 T-bird. Its amazing what people will throw away!







I dont know what model this carb is, anyone know. Is it a good carb or junk?

I may keep it as a spare if its worth keeping or may take what I need and toss it. Dosent look like its had gas run thru it but I am only exaggerating based on the fact that it still has stickers and tags still attached.

I need to get this choke deal on my truck and if anyone can tell me how to adjust it that would be appreciated. Thanks

 

1975/76 Thunderbirds came with 460 engines. Some have 4V carbs, some came with Motorcraft 2150 series 2V carbs. Have all sorts of crap including an electric throttle kicker = PASS.

And some came with variable venturi carbs, a POS foisted on the public by FoMoCo. You don't want any = RUN AWAY!

2150's used 1975/79 and there are FIVE different carb kits. If the tag isn't present, lotsa luck getting the correct kit.

2100 series used 1962/74, uses ONE carb kit.

 

OK so its a 2150, thanks

 

1. Yes, the price mainly reflects the quality of the part. The Airtex/Wells unit is a cheaper unit. I've used these and other products by both Wells and Airtex (now are a joined company) and haven't had any issues with them. The other is an older name known for quality. Generally SMP re-boxes for a lot of other partshouses to use as their brand name.

2. the spring doesn't necessairly need to be wound so much as just to put initial tension on it to allow the choke butterfly to close when cold. When you start the vehicle or apply power to the cap, the spring will begin to heat up and expand thus releasing your preloaded tension causing the choke butterfly to open up.

When you get it and are ready to install it, I can go over that with you.

Yes. These caps will fit the housings of all 2100 Autolite, 2150 Motorcraft, 4100 Autolite, and 4300 Autolite/Motorcraft carbs. The earlier 2100 and 4100s may need internal parts changed/modified as some were cable-mechanical while others used heat tube/heater hose to activate. No electric caps were used on pre-'74 vehicles that i'm aware of. But the electric caps can be made to work on these carbs.

Yeah that it is. Yours is probably a 356 cfm (1.23 venturi) carb. This number is usually located (casted) on the driver's side of the fuel bowl, within a circle. If it says '1.08' then it'd be a 287 cfm carb.
In 1975 Autolite 2100s became Motorcraft 2150s, same exact design but the 2150 employed more provisions to accommodate the new emissions systems mandated from the federal govt. This is no big deal at all, and most all of these 'provisions' can be closed or plugged off and are not necessary to the function of the carb itself. This particular carb you have will just require pluggin the bowl vent and possible one other vacuum nipple on the back of the carb. The one that has the short piece of hose goes to the metal vacuum diaphram behind the choke assembly called the 'choke pull-off'.
Number dummy is right. There are about 5 different types of 2150, but there is also about that many 2100s if you go back as far as 1957. Fortunately the aftermarket (like Echlin) has combined the necessary pieces to rebuilt most if not all of these 2150 versions into one or two kits for most. When i worked for CSK Auto I found the biggest differences were: year, engine size, and high altitude(or not) when beating the parts books for info on the more common ones. That being said, there will be extra pieces left over in a kit when you're done!

I say run this 2150 carb. And run it just as it is. It sure looks pretty clean to me, granted you can't see the inside, but I'd still try it like it is. Worst case scenario, you have to take it back off and rebuild it. Be sure and keep in mind what car/engine/year you got this carb from in the event that your new-aged parts counter person is too stupid to know how to look up the tag. Trust me... it's gettin really bad these days, trying to find a 'truly knowledgeable' parts counter person.

 

Don't block off the bowl vent, just run a short piece of tubing away from anything hot.

 

Why not? You won't need it. There are two vents at the edges of the air horn (just as all 2100/2150s) that are underneath the air cleaner when it's installed. That nipple on the float bowl was just a draw-point for the charcoal canister to hook to.

 

OK, I thought those internal vents were eliminated when they put the external on.

 

Oh they are still there. They kinda have to allow air 'in' and to draw out the vapor above the fuel level out through that nipple. I guess in a way they kinda function as an intake of sorts when the smog system draws the vapor from the bowls rather than a vent.
If the main vents were eliminated the float bowl would be under constant vacuum and not properly function.

 

Thanks for the well explained info, I will keep this carb than as a spare/back-up and will get with you when I go to install the choke deal on the carb I have already on my truck.

I planned on starting the brakes yesterday but it was too cold, today is even colder. I may just go ahead and bite the bullet anyway today but I guess I am getting off topic here so thanks again

 

Photobucket is giving me fits today, maybe an alternative site is in order.

I have the parts switched over for this choke and I am ready to proceed with having it working but need a little help.

I have two of these deals now but I think I have read that the motorcraft can be directly hooked onto the stator terminal that is on the alt, is that correct? The motorcraft is the one on the right.



I can see that the spring fits between the tangs on the carb side but should I be winding the spring a bit first?



After I place the cap on with the spring correctly wound what should I do next, assuming there is some sort of adjustment after that.

Seems like these coils, choke wind-up spring is pretty resilient, I dont see how there could be an issue in the future with it failing anyway.

Thanks for the help

 

Just start the engine let it warm up and make sure it is open when warm. You should be able to watch it open as the engine warms. It has been a long time since I've seen an electric choke set up but shouldn't the wire hook to some sort of temperature sensor.....

Paul

 

For a thermal choke, I was taught to start with a cold engine and watch the (open) radiator coolant surface to see when the thermostat first burps open. At this point, the choke should be set to fully open the butterfly.
Of course, manual chokes and electric chokes do not apply..