Thanks but I am pretty sure there is no temp sensor in this circuit

 

Quote...........<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="6" width="100%"><tbody><tr><td nowrap="nowrap"> The Horvaths
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</td> </tr> </tbody></table> For a thermal choke, I was taught to start with a cold engine and watch the (open) radiator coolant surface to see when the thermostat first burps open. At this point, the choke should be set to fully open the butterfly.
Of course, manual chokes and electric chokes do not apply..


Thanks, Dano 78 will reply with an answer I am sure when he comes back on-line

 

1234567BTT

 

If you're expecting there to be "a" setting that will work for everyone, every time, in every location, there isn't one, or they wouldn't be adjustable. They require some fiddling to find what works best for your engine in your climate. I spent half my teen years trying to keep them set correctly. Just set it so when "cold" it sets the choke plate lightly closed, and make sure it opens fully when reasonably warm.

 

Actually there is an initial setting but as Ross says it may take minor tweaks after that to improve drivability in your area. Just use an 1/8" drill bit to set the initial clearance between the top of the choke plate and the air horn when cold. Adjustments should be minor from there .

 

I believe the 1/8" is with the choke pull-off under vacuum? I hate chokes...

 

That is exactly the sort of info that I was after, I have never fiddled with one period so I had no idea. Can someone confirm that the stator terminal on the alt is the correct place to wire it in?

Thanks

 

Here are a couple of good posts on some other forums:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/703787-motorcraft-2150-help.html#post5694783

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/895012-help-with-electric-choke-on-motorcraft-2150-2bbl.html#post8059811

 

I have had the Autolite 2100 with the hot air choke, and a Holley 4160 with an electric choke. Maybe it's the difference between the two carbs, but in my experience, the Autolite 2100 with the hot air choke was a much better or should I say easier starting carburetor. I think it might be because with the hot air choke, the choke stays synchronized to the engine temperature, so after the first cold start of the day, the engine would start and run at just barely a touch of the key, with no gas pedal needed. If you don't have the hot air tubing, you can get a carburetor hot air kit from O'Reilly's or Advance Auto. Ask them to order you a Dorman part#55111. It comes with tubing, fittings, insulator sleeve and everything you need to get a hot air choke working on you 2100 or 2150.
Just be careful threading the tubing on to the choke housing. It is such a weird angle, it is easy to strip the nipple on the choke housing as it is hard to bend to meet the fitting at the proper angle, I bought it and installed it and it worked great! And it costs only around $15.00. I evetually changed engines and used the Holley 4160 that came with it. It uses an electric choke. After the first cold start in the morning, it starts good too, but you need to "tickle it" with a little gas. If it's a warm day, I turn the ignition to to ON for about 5 secs before turning it to start. That way you give the choke coil a head start to open up and allow the engine to start with a leaner mixture to improve warm temperature drivability. It does help to set the choke cap leaner,but in my opinion a little ignition "pre-on" still helps. If you wire the choke cap to the stator of your alternator, or to say a swithed side of an oil pressure switch you would lose that capability. With either carb, the first in the morning cold start is the same. One press of the gas to the floor to set the choke, and then crank her up!

 

I agree with Ross automatic chokes suck. I would take that Autolite carb and bury it with all its brothers and sisters and find a good used 4bbl manifold and buy a new Edlebrock 500 CFM carb with a manual choke .You'll love it .

 

You should notice notches like a scale on the aluminum housing that mounts to the carb. This scale coincides with a notch that is put on the plastic choke cap. This would be your setting as well as determine your preload of your choke butterfly. Now sometimes, either because its an aftermarket piece or in swap situations either that mark on the cap wont be present or is not properly aligning. Here's what you do-
Put the cap on making sure it's engaged to the arm of the choke assembly inside. Rotate it so that the butterfly is open, and then rotate it till the butterfly just closes. Look to see if the mark on the cap is anywhere close (if it has one). At this point is where you're gonna have to fiddle with the adjustment a little. The more spring tension you put on the butterfly in the closed position means the richer it will be and the longer the choke will stay on. I've found that setting it a notch or two clockwise from the center works good for a starting point.
Viewed -- '''|''' <-- One notch clockwise of center.

Now as for your wiring, yes the stator terminal should work for your factory-style choke cap. However, most aftermarkets (Edelbrock. Holley, etc..) will NOT work here as they require a constant 12V supply. You'll find that on Ford alternators this stator terminal will not always supply a constant 12 volts but rather fluctuate with the charging system.

I'll see if i can get you some pictures to better illustrate what I'm saying.

 

Ok here we go-
First I'll include some instructions you'd find in a typical rebuild kit. These instructions encompass 1975-1977 2150s of most all applications.




Now here's a couple images of a 1977 Truck Motorcraft 2150 I pulled off the shelf. This was a running carb that functioned great before pulled (even as nasty as it was).


This is what I was talking about, the notches. See where it is set at?


With the choke set, and after snapping the throttle, the valve should be closed. This is normal. You should be able to push down on the front of it and fee the spring tension. Tough to explain 'how much' you should feel, but there should be some.


Now upon vehicle startup, the valve will open up just a hair, especially after you bump the throttle a bit, this moves the choke down from it's highest step on the cam down to the fast-idle portion of the step cam.


This is the cam I'm talking about. you'll see that there is a mark shaped like a 'v' stamped onto the cam itself. The fast-idle screw should point right at it. This is where the carb will be until the choke cap warms up enough to begin to shut down the choke. That screw is also the screw you adjust to change your fast-idle engine speed. When making the gap adjustment between the choke butterfly and the airhorn, this is the mark that the screw needs to be pointing at.


A little better shot of that mark on the cam I was talking about. Now on initial startup, (air valve completely closed) the screw will not be aligning with this mark, it will be on the step above it. That is normal. Once youget the vehicle started, you'd typically bump the throttle a bit which then will allow the screw to drop a step, and align with the mark I speak of.


Take a good gander at those instruction sheets. They should pretty much answer most your questions. I have sheets for other 2100s and 2150s aswell. Sometimes they don't give you all the answers but usually provide you with enough to get you going in the right direction.

 

VERY VERY nice explanation, thanks for taking the time to post all of this. I will start with this today after we have daylight and report back from there.

 

Thanks Pete, I did not see/somehow overlooked this response until now, I will have to check these out as well.

 

Thanks for the info, alot of good info. I have to stick with this for now, cant keep going back and forth on what to use, if I dont like this set-up I will certainly look into other ways.