Hard to start when warm
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Freshman User
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Hard to start when warm
Got my DS2 project done. Now it's hard to start when it's warmed up.
When it was cold it started right up.
It idles under 500 R.P.M.
Doesn't seem to have as much get up and go.
The carb is late '60 early '70. It has no dashpots, solenoids,and choke pulloff. It looks new. The sticker on it says 7-30-07, Iguess when it was rebuilt. There is a number on the float bowl 2228. Modle number?
Has a heat activated choke. Which isn't opening the all the way. There is what's left of a metal tube comeing out of the choke housing, with alot of vaccum. If I cap it off the wants to die, so I hooked it to a port on the manifold side of the carb near the top above the venturi vaccum where I hooked the dizzy hose.
I capped off one venturi vaccum port and a throttle plate vaccum port where one of those vaccum solenoids hooked up at.
Anybody know where these vacume lines should go?
thanks
When it was cold it started right up.
It idles under 500 R.P.M.
Doesn't seem to have as much get up and go.
The carb is late '60 early '70. It has no dashpots, solenoids,and choke pulloff. It looks new. The sticker on it says 7-30-07, Iguess when it was rebuilt. There is a number on the float bowl 2228. Modle number?
Has a heat activated choke. Which isn't opening the all the way. There is what's left of a metal tube comeing out of the choke housing, with alot of vaccum. If I cap it off the wants to die, so I hooked it to a port on the manifold side of the carb near the top above the venturi vaccum where I hooked the dizzy hose.
I capped off one venturi vaccum port and a throttle plate vaccum port where one of those vaccum solenoids hooked up at.
Anybody know where these vacume lines should go?
thanks
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 666
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The "what's left of a metal tube" coming out of the choke housing sounds like the hot air tube. There should be a metal tube covered with a layer of insulation coming out of the choke housing. This tube should go to the exhaust manifold. This is where the choke gets its heat.
Can you post a picture of the carb and the tubes and hoses in question?
If your choke isn't opening, then it will be hard to start hot and will run like crap when hot.
Can you post a picture of the carb and the tubes and hoses in question?
If your choke isn't opening, then it will be hard to start hot and will run like crap when hot.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 666
Likes: 5
Is this your carb?
I found this one online, and it has 6-2228 on the side, so I am guessing it is similar to your carb.
In this picture, there is a threaded brass fitting in the choke housing. This is where the metal hot air tube attaches. There will be a small hole in the exhaust manifold for the other end of the tube to fit into (assuming you have the original manifold still).
I found this one online, and it has 6-2228 on the side, so I am guessing it is similar to your carb.
In this picture, there is a threaded brass fitting in the choke housing. This is where the metal hot air tube attaches. There will be a small hole in the exhaust manifold for the other end of the tube to fit into (assuming you have the original manifold still).
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Boise, Idaho
I've also heard of ignition modules that are "going bad but haven't gone bad yet" giving serious troubles once they warm up.
My Bronco had the metal choke tube rusted off for a couple years until I got around to replacing it. Drove it from 10° to 110° outside and it didn't cause very many problems. Just took a little longer for the choke to fully open.
My Bronco had the metal choke tube rusted off for a couple years until I got around to replacing it. Drove it from 10° to 110° outside and it didn't cause very many problems. Just took a little longer for the choke to fully open.
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Freshman User
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Sorry I haven't responded . Had a death in the family.
That is basicly the carb I have. I got it to start better when hot and cold. I adjusted the choke so it opened all the way, but now it is a little harder to start when cold.
Where is the hook up on the manifold? Maybe that will fix it so I can adjust the choke better.
Thanks
That is basicly the carb I have. I got it to start better when hot and cold. I adjusted the choke so it opened all the way, but now it is a little harder to start when cold.
Where is the hook up on the manifold? Maybe that will fix it so I can adjust the choke better.
Thanks
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 458
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Sorry about your loss.
This is a 240/300 six, right? The other guys had some good ideas. Also, these engines with the stock manifolds got the intake manifold and carb and part of the fuel line quite warm even in normal conditions, and if things are not right the engine will vapor-lock, especially on hotter days. The heat-riser butterfly valve in the exhaust mainfold will overheat everything if it gets stuck with carblon or rust or a broken spring. If that is good, but vapor-lock is still the issue, you can put an extra insulating block under the carb, oh, and make sure you have the factory heat shield there, too. You can also wrap aluminum foil around the fuel line and the carburetor bowl to keep a little of the radiant heat away. Make sure you aren't running lean with an air leak or whatever, which makes everything hotter.
This is a 240/300 six, right? The other guys had some good ideas. Also, these engines with the stock manifolds got the intake manifold and carb and part of the fuel line quite warm even in normal conditions, and if things are not right the engine will vapor-lock, especially on hotter days. The heat-riser butterfly valve in the exhaust mainfold will overheat everything if it gets stuck with carblon or rust or a broken spring. If that is good, but vapor-lock is still the issue, you can put an extra insulating block under the carb, oh, and make sure you have the factory heat shield there, too. You can also wrap aluminum foil around the fuel line and the carburetor bowl to keep a little of the radiant heat away. Make sure you aren't running lean with an air leak or whatever, which makes everything hotter.
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