i have an 83 ford f150 with a 302. im pretty sure i have the motorcraft 2150 carb with an automatic choke. so recently ive been having trouble with it running right. on a cold start, the choke works but its hard to get it running in the morning. i pump the gas fire it up, starts, then sputters and will turn off. im wondering if i have the fast idle set wrong. it starts at 1000 rpm then drops to about 500.
also today the throttle has stuck twice. it seems like its from where the linkage attaches to the base of the carb.
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According to Chiltons Ford Pick-Ups, 1965-1986, page 214, that screw is called a Solenoid off idle (hot engine) speed adjusting screw.
WD-40 has cured a lot of sticking throttle linkages. I don't see an automatic choke in your bottom picture.

 

the bottom picture is from before the carb was rebuilt and the choke was put on. do u know what screw would be the one for cold starts when the choke isnt fully open? and which way to you turn them to get more rpms?

 

You are looking for the fast idle screw which is on the passenger side on the back. Turn clockwise to increase RPM. There is also the "fast idle index" screw which is a hex-head screw on the passenger side of the carb which controls the amount of time the fast idle cam is engaged. However, all of this linkage is missing in the bottom picture - and it has to be put back together very carefully. This is a hairy procedure that will have to be recalibrated since the choke has been taken off. Here is my old write-up on how to do this once you've got it put back together:

This has to be made with the truck cold, so let it sit overnight. Loosen the three choke retaining screws and rotate the choke 90 degrees toward the back of the truck, then tack it back down (this is temporary, you'll dial that part in at the end). On the choke pulloff (valve with a vacuum line going to it, on the passenger side of the carb), push the rod all the way in so that the pulloff opens the choke slightly. Somewhere in your rebuild sheet, there will be a specification for pulloff clearance, something like 5/16". You need to get a drill bit of whatever size the sheet calls for, and gauge it between the slightly open choke plate and the choke tower, on the long edge, on the back-side. Be careful not to let it fall in there. If the clearance is not within spec, there is a small screw behind the pulloff that you can adjust to get it within spec.

Once you have the pulloff at the right clearance, you need to set the fast idle index. Let off the choke pulloff so that the choke is fully closed again. Now with one hand, depress the choke pulloff again so that the choke pulloff pulls the choke open to spec, then with your other hand, open the throttle (on the drivers side) just slightly, then close it back up. You can then take your hand off of the choke pulloff. Look down underneath the choke housing and you will see a small tab on the passenger-side end of the throttle shaft, resting on a small cam. This is called the fast idle cam. There is a small V on that cam. You want that tab to be directly on that V. If it is not, there is a small hex-head screw on the plastic fast idle arm that you can adjust. It is trail and error - you will have to repeat the above process over a few times until you get the fast idle tab to line up on the cam. Once you have the index set correctly, you can use the fast idle speed screw (passenger side, rear) to control the fast idle speed.

There are three stages to fast-idle: Startup, fast-idle, and normal operation. When you first pump the gas in the morning before you first start the truck, the throttle tab is on the highest step of the cam. Once you crank the engine, vacuum pulls the choke pulloff to let just enough air into the throat of the carb for the motor to run. The choke is now in the pulloff position. Once you tap the gas again, the throttle opens and the fast idle linkage falls, and the throttle lands on the V. As the engine warms up and the choke opens slightly and you drive, the fast idle cam falls with the choke, until the choke is all the way open, and the throttle tab clears the linkage. This is the last stage - normal operation. The idle speed is now controlled by the curb idle screw on the driver's side of the carb.

Finally - you need to set the actual choke (black cap on the passenger side). On the metal choke housing that holds the choke cap, you will find seven notches. Going from the back of the truck toward the front, the order of these notches is 3 Rich, 2 Rich, 1 Rich, Index, 1 Lean, 2 Lean, and 3 Lean. You will also notice that on the top of the choke cap on the perimeter, there is a small notch. You must line that notch up with one of the seven notches I just mentioned. The knotch you must use will be listed on your rebuild sheet, but it will also be on the valve cover sticker. You will see something like "1 Rich." Rotate the cap to the position, then tack it back down by tightening those 3 screws.

 

ok thanks. the carb already has the choke, the bottom pic is an old one before i got it rebuilt.

 

I know this is an old thread, but it is very helpful. I have adjusted my carb as stated in the directions and the pull off opens correctly, the choke is set at the right setting, and the fast idle cam lands on the "V". The only problem I am having now is when I turn the throttle the throttle plate only opens about 1/8 of the way. The screw in the plastic fast idle arm is backed nearly completely out to get the screw to land on the "V". I don't know if this has anything to do with it or not. I have screwed the plastic idle screw in a long way and the throttle opens, but the choke plate will not close when the screw is on the "v". How can I correct this? Also, there is a hole to the right of the drivers fuel mixture screw. What is this for and should I plug it or leave it alone? Thanks in advance for your help!