Heater Fan
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Heater Fan
need some help here guys. so i was driving and i hit a big pot hole. right after my battery some how slid and the positive cable rubbed on the alternator. It burned a little bit of the wire. Then my heater fan started squealing very loud and shortly after smoke was coming from all the vents.
so i unplugged it and tightened the battery back down. and drove it home. i had another fan that i swapped in and it squeals just as loud. could the positive hitting the alt. have caused something to fry? i really need heat. its getting colder each day.
Any info would be great!
so i unplugged it and tightened the battery back down. and drove it home. i had another fan that i swapped in and it squeals just as loud. could the positive hitting the alt. have caused something to fry? i really need heat. its getting colder each day.
Any info would be great!
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From: Northeast, OK
Depends on the alternator. I don't know when they changed from the 1st gen unit that is on my 81 to the 2nd gen, which has an internal regulator. The external regulator for the 1st gen is on the fender just behind the solenoid. A 3" square box about an inch high.
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I saw a silver box that says heavy duty. Sits right below the starter relay on the passenger side. Could thy be it?
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my 83 had the 1g with the external regulator until i swapped to a 3g a few weeks ago. i think the 86 i used to have may have also been a 1g like that.
if you're putting out that much voltage, you'll also see light bulbs burning out pretty quick. but you should take a voltmeter and see whats really happening there
since something appears screwy with your charging system, this is a perfect excuse to swap in a 3g alternator
if you're putting out that much voltage, you'll also see light bulbs burning out pretty quick. but you should take a voltmeter and see whats really happening there
since something appears screwy with your charging system, this is a perfect excuse to swap in a 3g alternator
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From: Northeast, OK
If the battery is at 12.8 and you have no power then you probably fried one or more fusible links. They come off of the solenoid and have tabs on them that tell what they are - usually. Check voltage at the fuse block.
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Don't have any volts at the block. Any way to test fuse able links?
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Take them off the solenoid's input terminal and follow them into the harness. You should be able to tell where each on ends as there's a junction ther IIRC. Either use a pin to pierce the insulation or cut into it w/a knife. A small pin makes a hole that will close up after you remove it, but I like to cover it with electrical tape or, better yet, the flexible rubber coating in a bottle.
Parts store sell replacement links that can be wired in, but you have to know the amps rating of the old one, which should be on a rubber tab on the solenoid end.
Parts store sell replacement links that can be wired in, but you have to know the amps rating of the old one, which should be on a rubber tab on the solenoid end.
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Take them off the solenoid's input terminal and follow them into the harness. You should be able to tell where each on ends as there's a junction ther IIRC. Either use a pin to pierce the insulation or cut into it w/a knife. A small pin makes a hole that will close up after you remove it, but I like to cover it with electrical tape or, better yet, the flexible rubber coating in a bottle.
Parts store sell replacement links that can be wired in, but you have to know the amps rating of the old one, which should be on a rubber tab on the solenoid end.
Parts store sell replacement links that can be wired in, but you have to know the amps rating of the old one, which should be on a rubber tab on the solenoid end.
FTE Legend
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From: Northeast, OK
I don't remember which is which. I think my truck has 2 of them, and they both feed the fuse block. But, before you do that, you didn't happen to change things when working with the regulator or alternator? The fusible links should be on the battery side of the solenoid, not the starter side.
Some times fusible links burn through such that you can tell from handling them. The wire burns in two and you just have insulation holding it together.
Some times fusible links burn through such that you can tell from handling them. The wire burns in two and you just have insulation holding it together.
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I don't remember which is which. I think my truck has 2 of them, and they both feed the fuse block. But, before you do that, you didn't happen to change things when working with the regulator or alternator? The fusible links should be on the battery side of the solenoid, not the starter side.
Some times fusible links burn through such that you can tell from handling them. The wire burns in two and you just have insulation holding it together.
Some times fusible links burn through such that you can tell from handling them. The wire burns in two and you just have insulation holding it together.
i kept everything the same. this is what has me confused. i had power everywhere before i changed the regulator. now nothing. i changed back to the old one and still nothing.