Freon or AC compressor?
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Freon or AC compressor?
So, I have my father telling me that the drag on my engine only when my heat or a/c is on is the compressor or the compressor clutch. While my brother-in-law is telling me that it is low on freon. So, I haven't been able to keep freon in the system for two years now. Could this lack of freon have damaged something in my compressor? Also, is it worth adding the freon without first finding the leak or is it the only way to find the leak? I know only enough to do more damage.
Is there still a thread somewhere about tires? Having some issues there too.
Dani,
2000 F-150 2x4 4.6L
Is there still a thread somewhere about tires? Having some issues there too.
Dani,
2000 F-150 2x4 4.6L
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If there is gas in the compressor, it will cycle on and off to defrost the air. If there is no gas, or compressor is off, the pulley free wheels on a bearing. YOu can take the fan belt off and spin the pulley to see if it is free. If the compressor is dragging when running, then just pull the electric plug off and it will not run, just free wheel.
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Welcome to the forums.
If there is no/low freon, the low pressure switch keeps the compressor from running. Period. As long as the system has been sealed you can charge it again. There is a dye you can put in to find leaks(buy it at any parts store) or have shop do it for you.
Once there is enough freon in the system, it will then allow the compressor to cycle. With the dye installed, using infrared light you can then determine where the leak is(after a period of time to allow colored oil to seep out and be seen).
The only time the compressor is running is when the clutch is engaged(and spinning--you can see it). If the clutch is stationary, then the compressor is not running.
If there is no/low freon, the low pressure switch keeps the compressor from running. Period. As long as the system has been sealed you can charge it again. There is a dye you can put in to find leaks(buy it at any parts store) or have shop do it for you.
Once there is enough freon in the system, it will then allow the compressor to cycle. With the dye installed, using infrared light you can then determine where the leak is(after a period of time to allow colored oil to seep out and be seen).
The only time the compressor is running is when the clutch is engaged(and spinning--you can see it). If the clutch is stationary, then the compressor is not running.
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The clutch is what is dragging, it is having some issue that is causing an almost gasping sound. The clutch isn't moving right and you can see it when you open the hood.
Last edited by littlered150; Dec 5, 2012 at 02:57 AM. Reason: typo
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You don't usually hear a "dragging" AC clutch for long b/c accumulating heat from friction generally breaks things down until something seizes up.
Sounds like either the bearing that lets the AC pulley spin freely, OR the coil that magnetizes the AC clutch is on its last legs. Bad bearing makes typical unhappy bearing sounds. Bad clutch coils usually expand & bind inside pulley, not actually the clutch surfaces "dragging".
Chronically low refrigerant makes compressor run excessively, reduces oil circulation & shortens service life. But you need to confirm if there's even enough freon to kick in the low pressure limit switch.
I presume the compressor isn't spinning & your drag is in AC clutch.
Chronically low refrigerant makes compressor run excessively, reduces oil circulation & shortens service life. But you need to confirm if there's even enough freon to kick in the low pressure limit switch.
I presume the compressor isn't spinning & your drag is in AC clutch.
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There is a large roller bearing that the clutch rides on(so it can free wheel). If that bearing fails the clutch will rock around(like it's loose on the shaft). Our '01 had that issue, sounded like the rods were knockn in the motor, til you turned the AC on, then it was quiet because the clutch was spinning the compressor. I pulled the pulley and installed new bearing. Was good as new.
If the pump was locked up(For whatever reason) and the clutch tried to engage, then it would smoke the belt as it slipped over the pulley.
If the pump was locked up(For whatever reason) and the clutch tried to engage, then it would smoke the belt as it slipped over the pulley.
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The compressor stops moving, seems to hold, and then spins with the gasp and then cycle through it again and again until I turn it off, or to panel. When it gasps the engine revs up too.
I am thinking that we will probably fill the freon, find the leak and fix that. I guess that then we will see what part of the compressor needs replaced, or if we need to replace the entire compressor. That's what I get for being ok with my dads way of fixing things, wait til it becomes a big problem. UGH, gotta start fixing things when they happen.
I am thinking that we will probably fill the freon, find the leak and fix that. I guess that then we will see what part of the compressor needs replaced, or if we need to replace the entire compressor. That's what I get for being ok with my dads way of fixing things, wait til it becomes a big problem. UGH, gotta start fixing things when they happen.
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Lead Driver
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They will cycle quick(on/off/off every few seconds) when low on freon. Stop cycling completely when too low on freon.
It will increase engine rpm slightly when turning compressor to keep from stalling engine. Then once it turns off, it returns engine idle back down.
When fully charged, it still will cycle, but not as quick. More like 30 seconds between.
It will increase engine rpm slightly when turning compressor to keep from stalling engine. Then once it turns off, it returns engine idle back down.
When fully charged, it still will cycle, but not as quick. More like 30 seconds between.
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