A/C compressor problem
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A/C compressor problem
Today I was driving in the rain and needed to turn on the defroster for the front window of my 95 F250, standard cab, 351W. The fan speed was at low, the temp was at cold and the selector was at defrost. When I did this I heard a noise from the engine compartment, opened the hood and saw the pulley of the a/c compressor spinning but there was smoke coming from the stationary part on the front of the compressor.
I have never had any issues with my a/c compressor so I don't even know where to start.
Anyone?
I have never had any issues with my a/c compressor so I don't even know where to start.
Anyone?
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the clutch for compressor or the compressor is locked up, 99% of the time you need a new compressor, if you do this your self make sure to flush the system out with a good ac flush it comes in a quart can you can use air pressure to put it thru system. then buy a new oriface tube and install it before you put things back togather. i can give you detailed how to on it if you need, or you can read a book. i have done ac work for 20 yrs. and still read books from time to time
dave
dave
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Langhorne, PA
I guess your clutch-coil fried. How and why that happens is beyond me.
There is a switch on your accumulator that tells the clutch when to engage the pulley. 12VDC can cause a big fire when it runs straight to ground.
Theory #2
The pulley of course is driven by your engine via the serpentine belt, and if for some reason the compressor input shaft has seized you may be heating the clutch disc up and burning oils off it.
Smoke from your AC compressor is surely a bad sign.
There is a switch on your accumulator that tells the clutch when to engage the pulley. 12VDC can cause a big fire when it runs straight to ground.
Theory #2
The pulley of course is driven by your engine via the serpentine belt, and if for some reason the compressor input shaft has seized you may be heating the clutch disc up and burning oils off it.
Smoke from your AC compressor is surely a bad sign.
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Originally Posted by dv_shane
the clutch for compressor or the compressor is locked up, 99% of the time you need a new compressor, if you do this your self make sure to flush the system out with a good ac flush it comes in a quart can you can use air pressure to put it thru system. then buy a new oriface tube and install it before you put things back togather. i can give you detailed how to on it if you need, or you can read a book. i have done ac work for 20 yrs. and still read books from time to time
dave
dave
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get the freon out of the system if you dont have access to certain tools are required.
vacuum pump,guages,should recover freon even if its r134a at least thats what epa says. or you can just vent it (i did not say that) then over by the evaporator coil thats
on the firewall on the passenger side there is 2 lines one is like a 3\8" you will see a fitting its on a straight up part of the line.
take the fitting loose and pull the lines apart inside the line there is a oriface tube you will need skinny needle nose or go to auto zone and rent the tool to remove the tube, a new tube only cost like 6 bucks. the tube meters the freon into the evap coil your old one is most likely filled with crap from system. if it is you need to flush the system and change the dryer(accumlater) most compressor warrantys are only good if you change it too. its the canister next to the line you take the oriface tube from. has 2 fittings that come apart close to it. there is a tag on the front of truck engine area that says how much freon it takes and how much oil too. i think its 6 ozs. of oil and 32 ozs of freon . let me know if you get this and i will go on.
vacuum pump,guages,should recover freon even if its r134a at least thats what epa says. or you can just vent it (i did not say that) then over by the evaporator coil thats
on the firewall on the passenger side there is 2 lines one is like a 3\8" you will see a fitting its on a straight up part of the line.
take the fitting loose and pull the lines apart inside the line there is a oriface tube you will need skinny needle nose or go to auto zone and rent the tool to remove the tube, a new tube only cost like 6 bucks. the tube meters the freon into the evap coil your old one is most likely filled with crap from system. if it is you need to flush the system and change the dryer(accumlater) most compressor warrantys are only good if you change it too. its the canister next to the line you take the oriface tube from. has 2 fittings that come apart close to it. there is a tag on the front of truck engine area that says how much freon it takes and how much oil too. i think its 6 ozs. of oil and 32 ozs of freon . let me know if you get this and i will go on.
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A couple of additional questions I thought of:
1) why does the a/c compressor go on when I want to use the vent for defrosting the front window?
2) can I disconnect the connector on the side of the compressor so it wonm't turn on? I'd like to have it disabled until I can get to repair it.
Thanks.
1) why does the a/c compressor go on when I want to use the vent for defrosting the front window?
2) can I disconnect the connector on the side of the compressor so it wonm't turn on? I'd like to have it disabled until I can get to repair it.
Thanks.
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as long as its not locked up meaning the pulley that spins with the belt turns free then you can unhook the wire to the compressor.
im not sure why the compressor comes on when in defrost but it is right all my cars and trucks are the same way dave
im not sure why the compressor comes on when in defrost but it is right all my cars and trucks are the same way dave
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I had the shop fix it, they replaced the compressor at a cost of $380 for the part. But I am glad I had them do it, I would have lost the freon and they said it was full (which is good because they were able to recover and save it and not charge me).
And I just used it, works fine.
And I just used it, works fine.