Hey guys, I'm looking at putting a 351W into my '85 flareside 2wd. I want to run longtubes but no smaller than 1 3/4" primaries.
This is where I'm running into a snag, I found tons for 1 1/2" and 1 5/8" but I want to run a minimum of 1 3/4" because this could end up as a wicked stroker before it's done. Maybe I'm too picky but I'd rather not spend 600-800 bucks on these either, painted ones are just fine (summer truck only)
Pacesetter, Hooker, Hedman, L&L, Flowtech, BBK all struck out. I'm wondering if a set for a fox body Mustang would fit? It's a T5 trans in it from one so that should all clear, just not sure of the framerails. Anyone had anything to do with this before? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

1 3/4 is needed for a lot of horsepower !! I have seen guys post where they have put shorties and H-pipes from Mustangs on there trucks, but in practical terms the drivers side pipe runs straight into the gas tank.

How did you go about putting in the T-5 ?

 

It seems that 1.5 to 1.625 primaries are the suggested for a small-block. Too big will hurt the low-end torque. A buddy of mine is running a 347 with 1.625 primaries and has 450+ hp, all motor. To get into custom headers, plan on a minimum of $6-700 or more.

Here's a little reading

Let's get technical. The biggest controversy in header design is the "equal length" versus "shorty" styles - which is best?

I've heard of people using fox body headers in the trucks, but don't remember what it all entailed.

 

I'll have to get another H pipe made up, that's not a big concern really. I have the exhaust run under the frame and out both sides behind the cab right now. That gas tank is a pain when it comes to running duals!

To put the T5 in was actually ALOT easier than you might think. Basically creeped the Ranger forums and got everything I needed. Made a bracket out of angle iron to bolt to the bell for a 3/4" external slave from a '93 Nissan 240SX (15 bucks at a parts store woo!) used an adapter from Russel to get rid of the nylon line and use a braided stainless line on a factory '85 clutch master. Even the crossmember worked, just flipped it around backwards and the holes line right up. Factory AOD driveshaft even worked. The shifter is close to the seat but use a Hurst handle for a Tri-five Chevy and it fits like a glove with the seat right back.

I'd use 1 5/8" in a pinch, Pacesetter does offer them for our trucks but I'm pretty set on 1 3/4" for the power level that this thing will be, it'll be well north of 450hp. I'd think the fox body longtubes would clear everything, just cause everything would be alot tighter in a Mustang. I just want to make sure because sending the headers back is a bit of a pain. I'm sure it will get mentioned, but yes I know that T5 won't live long behind it in stock form. I'll have to baby it till I can afford Astro or G-Force guts for it. Thanks for the replies.

 

As 81ChopTop said, the 1-3/4" headers will work if you can find them, but you will get less low end torque. I went with BBK equal length shorty headers, and did have to trim the firewall just a bit for clearance. The virtual dyno says my 408 Stroker will do 488 hp and 502 ft-lbs of torque with the 1-5/8" primaries feeding 2.5" collectors in a dual exhaust with crossover. Fuel tank was moved to behind the rear axle to make room for the exhaust. Good luck with your project.

 

This thing won't be a drag racer by any means, after sleeping on it you guys have me convinced on the 1 5/8" headers. Guess it's one of those things where bigger isn't always better. How do your BBK's clear for spark plug changes? I have Flowtech LT's right now and they are AWESOME for changing plugs. I sure miss them when I change the plugs in a Chevy with headers..
I've been told before that Longtubes produce better low end torque than shorties and I've been told the opposite of that too, any particular advantages/disadvantages of either? I'm starting to look at either BBK shorties or Pacesetter longtubes. Any opinions? Thanks again for the replies.

 

Keeping the exhaust speed up scavages the piston/cylinder. It needs to be long enough to hold the air leaving the cylinder up to speed. This drains the cylinder of the old smoke and helps draw in the new charge/time wise by helping with the vacuum produced by the downward travel of the piston. Main reason a 2 cycle runs well is the expansion chamber design of its exhaust. 4 cycle is more efficient in this regard. Doesn't need such a big expansion area.

 

Cool thanks! That clears up alot for me. My only real gripe about longtubes is that I have to take the right side header off to get at the starter. Maybe Pacesetter has that fixed. Thanks!

 

I am looking to put a T-5 behind my motor also. I was told a S-10 T-5 tails shaft puts the shifter real close to the factory position.

 

I heard that too. The Mustang tail is about as close as you can go to the seat and still shift. I have the seat right back all the time because I'm fairly tall and it clears everything fine. I do have a short throw shifter on it so that may make the difference too. I'm using a Hurst shifter stick part #5388620 and it's made for bench seats. Looks wicked in there against the red interior. That's a sharp looking shortbed you have there, I love the stance. Is that 3 in the front and back? I've been wondering about doing that with my Flareside. The S10 tailstock is a good idea if you ever have a third person sitting in the middle. My shifter is a pain in the a$$ for picking up chicks...

 

Yes It's 3" in the front from dream beams and 4" in the back from re-arched springs and first hole in some shackles.

I would like to go a little lower but I want to get some rims first.

 

hey effunfiddy I'm doing something similar to you. i had a 302 with a t5 in my 79 with a cable clutch setup w/ the quadrant mounted to the pedal pivot. but now I'm putting in my 351 with victor jr heads and intake with a TKO500. i got some bassini 1 3/4 shorties but they taper so much at the flanges that i don't like them. i don't want to put 1 5/8 primaries on that motor so I'm looking for big long tubes for the job. i plan on doing a hydraulic slave with this setup and am wondering how your setup is working out. was your truck originally an auto? mine was manual with mech. linkage. not too sure how to go about a hydraulic slave...

 

Nuts I just noticed this post now not 100% positive how to go with hydraulic on a '79. Mine was originally automatic but it was really easy to swap, it already had the holes for the factory master center punched so I didn't even have to figure that out.

My suggestion, if you haven't already done this swap would be to check out some of the classic Mustang forums. Those guys swap hydraulic clutched T5s into theirs all the time. Might be some helpful info how to swap mechanical to hydraulic. I'm sure there's somebody that's done a hydraulic conversion on a dentside on here, I can't find the thread at the moment though.

Hydraulic slave is easy as pie. One piece of angle iron made into a bracket on the bellhousing, slave cylinder from a '93 Nissan 280Z and adapt pipe fitting to a braided line. Russell fittings work awesome. Pushrod was made from round stock. It might sound MickeyMouse as **** but to look under it everything looks factory