MBRP 4" - Self-install how bad?
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Siesta Key, FL
MBRP 4" - Self-install how bad?
Due to the overwhelming support of the MBRP system on this board, my 4" Turbo-back complete with Test pipe is in the mail on it's way. I hadn't planned on doing this until next year, but it looks like the truck is going to put on about 2500 miles over the Christmas holidays (1000 will be towing 6k lbs), I decided it was a good time to get it done.
How bad is this to do by myself on the 6.0? I don't have any help right now. But it seems the universal advice is to cut the old downpipe before removing. Any other pointers? How tight are things around the turbo?
How bad is this to do by myself on the 6.0? I don't have any help right now. But it seems the universal advice is to cut the old downpipe before removing. Any other pointers? How tight are things around the turbo?
Elder User
Joined: May 2006
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From: Outside Boise, Idaho
I had the luxury of a hoist so I popped the down pipe out in one piece, but yes, everyone doing it on the ground cuts the pipe.
Since the original install I have replaced the muffler clamps with stainless steel band clamps from NAPA. I've been back and forth many times with cat delete and muff delete pipes and it is all very easy using the band clamps.
So the install is easy and swapping parts is easy. Especially in Florida weather...
Since the original install I have replaced the muffler clamps with stainless steel band clamps from NAPA. I've been back and forth many times with cat delete and muff delete pipes and it is all very easy using the band clamps.
So the install is easy and swapping parts is easy. Especially in Florida weather...
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Siesta Key, FL
X-Hibition: this is the time in FL we do the outside work, because come late April it's so hot / humid you'll do anything to avoid crawling around under an Ex! Will definitely go with the bands from Napa to help the process.
FTE Leadership Emeritus
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 12,246
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From: Houston, Texas
Correct!
You might even come up with a few curse words too
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,296
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From: Coal Valley, Illinois
What they said! I did it once before, not bad. It was one of my first mods and didn't have too much experience. My last one was done by a shop, can't do that stuff any longer.
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Posting Guru
Joined: Sep 2011
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From: Fraser Valley
It's also a good idea to set everything up loosely so you can adjust and position it as needed then tighten everything up!
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Joined: May 2012
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From: Western MA
I haven't done one of these installs yet, but from my experience installing a few exhausts on mustangs and the like, this is the most valuable information going! You really get to line everything up and get it where you want it while it's dangling.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 277
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From: Midwest
couple of pointers from mine:
Many Ex's have a huge heat shield wrap on the downpipe. this is there for two reasons, heat and noise. the heat shield itself is what made the downpipe hard to remove. We had to cut the heat shield off then cut the downpipe to get it out. that truly is the largest PITA in the whole process. I pulled mine off after a few days and wrapped the new downpipe with header tape and it helped both noise and heat.
When tightening, don't forget to start at the turbo and work back. I forgot and had a vibration issue and had to go through and loosen it all up again. It helps to have two people, one to hold the bottom side of the downpipe in position while someone tightens up at the turbo.
an 18v impact is worth it's weight in gold underneath.
Many Ex's have a huge heat shield wrap on the downpipe. this is there for two reasons, heat and noise. the heat shield itself is what made the downpipe hard to remove. We had to cut the heat shield off then cut the downpipe to get it out. that truly is the largest PITA in the whole process. I pulled mine off after a few days and wrapped the new downpipe with header tape and it helped both noise and heat.
When tightening, don't forget to start at the turbo and work back. I forgot and had a vibration issue and had to go through and loosen it all up again. It helps to have two people, one to hold the bottom side of the downpipe in position while someone tightens up at the turbo.
an 18v impact is worth it's weight in gold underneath.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Siesta Key, FL
couple of pointers from mine:
Many Ex's have a huge heat shield wrap on the downpipe. this is there for two reasons, heat and noise. the heat shield itself is what made the downpipe hard to remove. We had to cut the heat shield off then cut the downpipe to get it out. that truly is the largest PITA in the whole process. I pulled mine off after a few days and wrapped the new downpipe with header tape and it helped both noise and heat.
Many Ex's have a huge heat shield wrap on the downpipe. this is there for two reasons, heat and noise. the heat shield itself is what made the downpipe hard to remove. We had to cut the heat shield off then cut the downpipe to get it out. that truly is the largest PITA in the whole process. I pulled mine off after a few days and wrapped the new downpipe with header tape and it helped both noise and heat.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 29,909
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From: Virginia
The only hard part is getting the old clamp off of the turbo and reattaching the new down pipe, its just a bit awkward. Besides that just have a good size breaker bar or screwdriver to help pop the old hangers out of the rubber isolators. A good bit of spray lube is your friend here.
If you arent going to reuse the parts or resell them, just cut them off. Its a lot easier than trying to separate them.
If you arent going to reuse the parts or resell them, just cut them off. Its a lot easier than trying to separate them.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Siesta Key, FL
The only hard part is getting the old clamp off of the turbo and reattaching the new down pipe, its just a bit awkward. Besides that just have a good size breaker bar or screwdriver to help pop the old hangers out of the rubber isolators. A good bit of spray lube is your friend here.
If you arent going to reuse the parts or resell them, just cut them off. Its a lot easier than trying to separate them.
If you arent going to reuse the parts or resell them, just cut them off. Its a lot easier than trying to separate them.
I'm going to pretty much take the Sawzall to everything. I'll keep the CAT, but other than that it's going to the recycler for some extra fuel $$!
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 277
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From: Midwest
this is the exhaust wrap I used:
DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap with LR Technology 010127 - SummitRacing.com
I also used SS clamps to hold it on. It is wrapped very tight, and overlapped. Coming up on 2 years installed with no issues whatsoever.
DEI Titanium Exhaust Wrap with LR Technology 010127 - SummitRacing.com
I also used SS clamps to hold it on. It is wrapped very tight, and overlapped. Coming up on 2 years installed with no issues whatsoever.
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Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Siesta Key, FL
Well...got it all done! It kicked me in the pants pretty good...feel like I played in the Army / Navy game yesterday. But I'm loving the new system. Was really concerned about interior noise. But I took my "noise detector" for a test ride last night and her conclusion was she can hear the difference, but it's really no worse than before at 75 mph. I jumped on it under an overpass and the pipes will definitely bark under hard acceleration.
The downpipe / turbo clamp came off pretty easily, but getting the new downpipe on was a different story. Not easy, but I figured out if i slipped the clamp over the turbo first, mating up the downpipe went easier since it's flange was smaller. PB Blaster helped the rubber hangars slip out better. I cut the downpipe in front of the x-member, and the pipe in front of the axle to make things come out easier. Life also got a little easier when I disconnected the right-rear shock from the axle.
Overall I'm pretty impressed how well that system mates up into the hangars, including the cat delete pipe I put on.
The downpipe / turbo clamp came off pretty easily, but getting the new downpipe on was a different story. Not easy, but I figured out if i slipped the clamp over the turbo first, mating up the downpipe went easier since it's flange was smaller. PB Blaster helped the rubber hangars slip out better. I cut the downpipe in front of the x-member, and the pipe in front of the axle to make things come out easier. Life also got a little easier when I disconnected the right-rear shock from the axle.
Overall I'm pretty impressed how well that system mates up into the hangars, including the cat delete pipe I put on.
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