Here are 2 pictures of the return lines that go back to the tank on the other side of the sending unit. Just buy enough fuel line rated for diesel to make your 2 runs to and from the unit.... the fuel selector valve is on the driver frame rail and when it work you hear it buzz around while switching tanks it may just need a good beating lol

 

Pics............ sorry for the delay my phone is being stupid lol

 

Vic, are you saying to just run rubber diesel rated hose to the lift pump from the front tank ? Your pic seems like its showing the return lines for the injectors ?

 

oh yeah, I just got home from class and the truck started up. I had left the hose in the fuel can that I ran to the supply side of the pump. I had been gone about 4 hours since I had started the truck last so thats a good sign.

 

Yep that is what im saying ..... just run a new supply and return to your front tank sending unit. And leave the fsv hooked up on the elctric side of things so you can get your guage to read lol.... get hose rated for diesel and route it all through the frame rail like the orignal line set then you wont have to worry about it.... dont make any splices just str8t runs that way you dont have to worry about leaks.... this should get you buy until you can figure out either y you lost power at the fsv or confirm that the fsv is bad.... but leave everything intact as far as the OE line set runs, fsv, electrical until you can replace everything a job at a time then you wont forget how it is supposed to be...... what classes are you takeing?

 

Im in the Police Academy. I'm going to be a Reserve Officer for my local PD. Hoping I can go full time with them someday. I'll go get about 16ft of hose then. 3/8's and 5/16ths right ?

 

I would say 3/8 on supply side not sure about the return side... it all depends on the return side og tge sending unit for the return.... theres no way to get a 5/16id hose to fit on a 3/8 fitting lol I would look to be sure

 

okay, Ill run a new supply line tomorrow or saturday then and see how it does from there

 

Sweet sounds like a plan!!!

 

Vic, I deleted the FSV (now my fuel guage doesnt work) and just ran my supply and return lines to the front tank. She started. I had class and was gone about 4 hours and with it being colder tonight I plugged in the block heater to see if it worked.

Got home from class, found no leaking of coolant from bad freeze plug where the block heater is ( was scared to plug it in ) and I flipped my toggle switch to hopefully run the glow plugs (not sure if the work or not) and it cranked for a few seconds but then she started with no assistance from any juice and before someone says something bad about the ether, I never use ether when my glowplugs have been on or are on and I always crank the motor over before giving her a dose of it.

Now I just need to fix my glow plugs and rewire a controller for them, get my blower motor spinning a little faster (resistor may be going bad) and see whats going on with my tail lights and turn signals. Turn signals wont come on when the brakes are applied or if the headlights are on. The turn signals flash if no lights are on though so Im thinking it may be as simple as the bulbs needing replaced or a flasher.

 

Nice!!! So she starts and stop via key after u ran your temp supply and return??? Thats awesome.... therea a thread at the top of the forum on gp's S far as blower motor is concerned ... check your ground connections..... if it was me id replace the blower motor before replacei lng the resistor.... I had the same issue the cfm wasnt enough out of the vents so I replaced the resistor-no change.... replaced blower motor no change--- blower switch no change... the reasson I know I didnt have. Change is because I was uzing a volt meter that pulls a dc amp draw.. my blows draws 12 to 14 amps dc on high..... my 94 bronco uses all identical parts as far as the blower is concerned and on high it pulls 18 amps dc and blows your hat off.... my truck not so much .... have yet to clean grounds on blower circut... but I did find that if I took the blower motor leads straight to the battery then pulled an amp draw I was pulling 17amps.... which means that faster the blower wheel spins the more amperage it is drawing.... on the dc voltage side of things so that brings me to belive that ã I have a bad or bad grounds somewhere or bad hot wire down the line some where ......

 

I'll have to check my grounds and see how many amps Im pulling from and for the blower motor then. Ill check on the glow plugs here eventually lol. The fuel lines are permanent now, steel, not just rubber lines. I do still need to change my return lines and injector orings but thats for another day. Im slowly but surely making progress but this isnt my DD so its not a huge rush either plus my tires are ***** so they wont help much in the snow this year. Thx Vic!