Rear Window Questions
#1
Rear Window Questions
I have a 1995 bronco, and my rear window is not working. Nither the switch or the key will allow the window to go up. I know I am not getting power to the tailgate. My question now is, does anyone have a clue as to where to look next, or do you have a wiring diagram.
#3
I'm not sure if the 95's had a fuse for the window or not. 78 doesn't but i might be worth looking into. You could also check the wires going to the dash switch. Make sure none of the wires are brittle or broken and maybe pull the switch out and see if it is dirty. You never know, it cold be gunked up.
#4
There are two (2) auto-resetting (they rely on thermal change to reset so if they trip they will re-energize the circuit after they have cooled down) circuit breakers that feed power to the tailgate. CB #12 feeds the keyswitch AND the door locks. So if the door locks work the problem isn't CB #12. CB #14 feeds the dashboard switch AND the power windows. So, if the other two windows work, it isn't CB #14. The numbers for the fuses/circuit breakers in the lower dashboard panel are marked on the cover.
Since it is highly unlikely that you have lost power to door locks and the windows, I'm betting you've either 1) lost the negative to the window motor in the gate, 2) the motor itself has died, or 3) the Delrin pins that hold the drive gear to the window motor gear-head have shattered.
1) The negative connection for the tailgate window motor actually runs all the way forward into the cabin and lands at Ground F which is located below the left-hand side of the dash above the parking brake mechanism and a bunch of other stuff in that area. This isn't necessarily the only place the negative can be damaged. Take a few minutes to inspect the wiring harness at the tailgate especially where it passes from the gate into the body. If there is noting obvious at this point, there is the rest of the line all the way back to the base of the cowl on the driver's side.
2) It probably isn't a bad idea to run a positive and negative temporary jumper back to the tailgate and test the motor without worrying about switches, circuit breakers and the existing harness. Since I'm going to assume yours is stuck in the UP position, you get to enjoy crawling around on your hands and knees in the bed of your Bronco to remove the inspection plate and dig into the tailgate innards with it closed.
3) If, for some reason, you attempt to use the keyswitch and you can hear the motor trying to run or a clacking/clattering from inside the tailgate, you may have a set of dead Delrin pins. Delrin is just the trade name Monsanto gave to the UHMW plastic that makes up the pins that are used as bushings between the drive gear and the cam on the drive motor. In order to replace them (if they are indeed the culprit) you will need to get the motor out of the tailgate and open the gear-head to replace the pins. the pins can be found at most parts stores in the "HELP" section of odd-ball replacement parts.
Since it is highly unlikely that you have lost power to door locks and the windows, I'm betting you've either 1) lost the negative to the window motor in the gate, 2) the motor itself has died, or 3) the Delrin pins that hold the drive gear to the window motor gear-head have shattered.
1) The negative connection for the tailgate window motor actually runs all the way forward into the cabin and lands at Ground F which is located below the left-hand side of the dash above the parking brake mechanism and a bunch of other stuff in that area. This isn't necessarily the only place the negative can be damaged. Take a few minutes to inspect the wiring harness at the tailgate especially where it passes from the gate into the body. If there is noting obvious at this point, there is the rest of the line all the way back to the base of the cowl on the driver's side.
2) It probably isn't a bad idea to run a positive and negative temporary jumper back to the tailgate and test the motor without worrying about switches, circuit breakers and the existing harness. Since I'm going to assume yours is stuck in the UP position, you get to enjoy crawling around on your hands and knees in the bed of your Bronco to remove the inspection plate and dig into the tailgate innards with it closed.
3) If, for some reason, you attempt to use the keyswitch and you can hear the motor trying to run or a clacking/clattering from inside the tailgate, you may have a set of dead Delrin pins. Delrin is just the trade name Monsanto gave to the UHMW plastic that makes up the pins that are used as bushings between the drive gear and the cam on the drive motor. In order to replace them (if they are indeed the culprit) you will need to get the motor out of the tailgate and open the gear-head to replace the pins. the pins can be found at most parts stores in the "HELP" section of odd-ball replacement parts.
#5
So I guess now I will check the negatives.
I will let you know what I find out thanks.
#6
If you use the dash switch a lot the ground contacts will burn & corrode, cutting off the negative path through that switch from the key switch. Usually if you move the lever up & down it will feel stiff & try to stick in one or the other if they have been too hot. If the lever moves freely & returns to the center by itself it probably is good. It's not really as good as taking the switch out & testing, but I have picked several spares out of Upull using that criteria & haven't got a bad one yet.
Trending Topics
#8
Edit... Another thought. Sometimes it is the simple things. The safety switch is connected to the driver's side latch. Have you tried pushing in on the tailgate while turning the key switch? Have you adjusted the striker bolt lately or replaced the plastic bushing on the striker bolt?
I also suspected the safety switch since it will not go up.
While trying to get mine to go down with the key reliably... it is extremely intermittent I found the following...
The wires break in the harness bend between the body and the tailgate.
Butt connectors and split harness cover fixed that.
There is a connector behind the drivers tail light. I cleaned and dielectric greased it.
Focusing on this thread from OP window will not go up from either switch. Are you sure it is not the safety switch?
These are some places I have addressed but I am beginning to suspect grounds contacts in the dash switch now. Sometimes the key will move the window down 1/4 inch, rarely all the way, usually nothing. Key up and dash switch work perfectly. I have not found a replacement key switch...cleaning it helped for a week as did Shoo Goo on the paddle.
I also suspected the safety switch since it will not go up.
While trying to get mine to go down with the key reliably... it is extremely intermittent I found the following...
The wires break in the harness bend between the body and the tailgate.
Butt connectors and split harness cover fixed that.
There is a connector behind the drivers tail light. I cleaned and dielectric greased it.
Focusing on this thread from OP window will not go up from either switch. Are you sure it is not the safety switch?
These are some places I have addressed but I am beginning to suspect grounds contacts in the dash switch now. Sometimes the key will move the window down 1/4 inch, rarely all the way, usually nothing. Key up and dash switch work perfectly. I have not found a replacement key switch...cleaning it helped for a week as did Shoo Goo on the paddle.
#10
I will post some pictures in a little bit but here is how you remove the dash tailgate window switch:
1. Pull headlight switch to on position and orient the slot in the **** up. Then using a ~1/16" screwdriver or hook in the slot pull the spring-loaded locking sleeve towards you and pull the headlight **** off.
2. Using a 3" wide thin blade putty knife in the center of each of the two silver looking dash inserts. These are on either side of the either side of the steering column and are about 1" x 8" and carefully pop them off exposing one dash screw under each.
3. Remove each dash screw carefully. These are the only screws.
4. Carefully remove the black instrument dash panel.
5. Unscrew the two screws that hold the tailgate window switch.
6. Carefully unplug the 4x4 plug if you have push button 4x4.
7. To unplug 4x4 push button and to unplug the tailgate window switch from the plug, use two big flat bladed screwdrivers and work each side off nearly simultaneously.
BTW, If anyone knows of a Ford plug removal tool, I am ready to buy it. So please let us know. Ford seems to use this type of plug on a lot of stuff including ABS speed sensors, etc.
1. Pull headlight switch to on position and orient the slot in the **** up. Then using a ~1/16" screwdriver or hook in the slot pull the spring-loaded locking sleeve towards you and pull the headlight **** off.
2. Using a 3" wide thin blade putty knife in the center of each of the two silver looking dash inserts. These are on either side of the either side of the steering column and are about 1" x 8" and carefully pop them off exposing one dash screw under each.
3. Remove each dash screw carefully. These are the only screws.
4. Carefully remove the black instrument dash panel.
5. Unscrew the two screws that hold the tailgate window switch.
6. Carefully unplug the 4x4 plug if you have push button 4x4.
7. To unplug 4x4 push button and to unplug the tailgate window switch from the plug, use two big flat bladed screwdrivers and work each side off nearly simultaneously.
BTW, If anyone knows of a Ford plug removal tool, I am ready to buy it. So please let us know. Ford seems to use this type of plug on a lot of stuff including ABS speed sensors, etc.
#11
Greystroke92 sent this as a response to my pm to him:
Re: Tailgate window switch test and/or plug jump?
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message -->
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor;"> Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
I took my dash tailgate window switch out of my 1995 Bronco EB 5.8, bone stock.
1. How do I test the switch?
</td></tr></tbody></table>
The switch itself is fed positive and negative from the center contacts. A simple continuity test between the center contacts and the contacts at either end should suffice. Just remember that when you go to test for continuity that the switch closes the contacts OPPOSITE from the direction that the rocker moves. Check that you get continuity between two pair of contacts for each direction the switch moves. With the switch "off" (center position) there should be NO continuity across any of the contacts.
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor;"> 2. Can I jump the switch plug which is hanging out of the dash to roll the window down? </td></tr></tbody></table>
Yes, the terminals that feed the center contacts in the switch should be a positive and a negative feed wire. you will have to jump BOTH to an outside set of terminals in the switch connector to bypass the switch and run the motor. If you try and the window won't move swap the positive and negative this will reverse the polarity and the direction of the motor/window.
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor;"> FYI, the window won't roll down even with the key in the tailgate. </td></tr></tbody></table>
The key needn't be in the tailgate to make the window function (unless you are running it with the keyswitch).
Re: Tailgate window switch test and/or plug jump?
<hr size="1" style="color: rgb(209, 209, 225); background-color: rgb(209, 209, 225);"><!-- / icon and title --> <!-- message -->
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor;"> Originally Posted by Tim Hodgson
I took my dash tailgate window switch out of my 1995 Bronco EB 5.8, bone stock.
1. How do I test the switch?
</td></tr></tbody></table>
The switch itself is fed positive and negative from the center contacts. A simple continuity test between the center contacts and the contacts at either end should suffice. Just remember that when you go to test for continuity that the switch closes the contacts OPPOSITE from the direction that the rocker moves. Check that you get continuity between two pair of contacts for each direction the switch moves. With the switch "off" (center position) there should be NO continuity across any of the contacts.
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor;"> 2. Can I jump the switch plug which is hanging out of the dash to roll the window down? </td></tr></tbody></table>
Yes, the terminals that feed the center contacts in the switch should be a positive and a negative feed wire. you will have to jump BOTH to an outside set of terminals in the switch connector to bypass the switch and run the motor. If you try and the window won't move swap the positive and negative this will reverse the polarity and the direction of the motor/window.
Quote:
<table width="100%" border="0" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="6"><tbody><tr><td class="alt2" style="border: 1px inset currentColor;"> FYI, the window won't roll down even with the key in the tailgate. </td></tr></tbody></table>
The key needn't be in the tailgate to make the window function (unless you are running it with the keyswitch).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post