Well, over 3k now on the truck since the swap and the only issue I find is a popping sound in the front end on braking. I lifted it and found nothing amiss. All welds seem to be holding up well. I think it might be the inner fender rubbing? I'll figure it out.

I still need new leak springs in the rear. I had the rear fender wells rolled for tire clearance. But loaded down this thing bottoms out.

On the interstate I have taken it up past 100 mph and it runs smooth and drives easy. It does not feel like it is that old for sure.

I ordered up the weather stripping set off eBay. Most the parts are pretty nice, although the vent windows are a bit of a PITA with the rivets. I tried to super glue the strait part in, but it did not take. But without glue it seems to be just fine. All the track seals fit great. I've only done the drivers side door thus far. I will be swapping to a sliding rear window which I bought a while back and I have a new windshield ready as this one is clouded up.

BTW, the truck weighs in at just a hair under 4000 pounds. Scales said 4100, but I weigh 135 and I had about 8 gallons of fuel.

 

so what was your approach to the wiring? did it need much changing?

also any pictures of the instrument cluster in the truck or even in the 67 bezel?

 

Do you have a link to the ebay seller you got the weather stripping from?

Thanks

 

The seller is just AM Autoparts. $177 shipped.

As far as wiring, I have linked a few of my videos on youtube on the topic in the thread.
I oped to cut the wiring from the one large plug at the firewall next to the PCM, and only wire up that required for the instrument cluster to work, fuse panel, ignition switch and the fuel pump control module. I have it basically set up for the Variable Assist Power Steering, but did not bother with plugging it in as the steering on the truck is very easy and does not require it.

Mostly you spend your time labeling wires. Based on the wiring I have now, I could make the harness in a long after noon, but initially it was a daunting task.

I have stated in my videos that the best course if you have the budget is to buy an after market harness/wiring kit.

There is some clips of the instrument cluster in the truck though. It does not look bad and I have no issues seeing anything on it. Now I also have the old steak knife steeringwheel it came with..... if you have the wide 2 bar type it might be easier or harder to see the gauges.

The fuel transfer pump works really good, but you have to remeber to turn it off or you can over fill the rear tank, and it is not as super air tight as I'd like and not correctly vented yet.

 

Time for an update. I have about 13k on this truck since the Crown Vic swap.Daily driven and gone as far as Detroit, MI and Raleigh, NC. I use as a daily work truck, towing cars, trucks and it is very reliable.



Biggest issues:

radiator core support is too far gone. Rust is killing it and it is collapsing. Passenger side sits about 1.5 inches lower than drivers side. It ended up cutting into my wiring harness and blowing my fuel pump fuse.

Brakes are too good. Seriously.
The truck brakes so hard that it causes the cab to lean forward hard into the new front cab mounts I welded in. That new metal is now buckling and tearing at the urethane mount. So I have to decide if I want to try welding in another new piece of stock sheet metal, or just patch this with better steel.

I have had a pair of coils fail on the engine. Months apart. I keep a couple extras around just in case. Only takes 2 minutes to swap them out.

Otherwise I have been trouble free.

I recently swapped out the door panels from a set I bought off eBay. I sanded them down and primed/painted them Wimbledon White. I bought a new set of arm rests for a 67 Mustang and had to move one screw hole over to make them fit. Although I am a mechanic, so white was likely a poor choice.



This is a photo of the seats I installed recently also..... came from a 4 door 1995 F350. I have a terrible youtube video detailing the swap. Just swap the rails over and it bolts right in. Total cost: $27.87
Far better than the $400+ to have the old seats recovered.



This is the front end sag:


Almost 109k. Those who saw the old videos from the build will remember that it used to say 95k. However the miles are higher as I use truck tires and that skews the milage about 10%.


Not a good photo of it, but I bought a headliner from the junkyard and recovered it. Then swapped out my old dry rotted one.

 

Minus the core support I'm glad to hear your truck is doing well. And I'm really glad you updated to bring this thread back to life. A little bit ago this thread came to my mind when I was replying to someone's question. But I couldn't remember who's it was. Your CV dash. I didn't have too much time here at work to search but I didn't find this thread while I was searching. BTW, what happened to the steak knife wheel?

 

Simple fix on the core support is to get one out of a 73 to 79 truck. There are a couple of holes to be added, but they a galvanized and are in much better shape then bumps and usually much cheaper as well. The front cab mounts, are they the one piece or the two units. The original style two piece units are much stronger and should not crush.

 

This is what was welded in. The welds held up fine.... It is just not holding up to the heavy braking I do.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/141272219595?lpid=82
I looked at the dentside, and it seems the biggest difference is in the hood mounting. They put the hinges on the other side, which means I'd need to swap the inner fenders too.

 

Got the radiator core support replaced..... no more tire rub. Front end sits far straighter now.

Was hauling too much weight in the back and one of my welds finally failed. The bracket on the frame for the rear swaybar has come off. I had a 460 strapped to that corner of the truck, a complete CV subframe in the bed, and was towing a 4500 pound minivan up and down through the mountains.


Otherwise this truck runs like a top. I use it for work 7 days a week and it does great. Still need new leaf springs in the rear. Gotta measure how long they need to be and see what I can make work as an upgrade.

Was going to put in one of my F700 gauge clusters in......or bezels and use aftermarket gauges, but opted to just list on eBay.

Round Gauge Instrument Cluster 67 68 69 70 71 72 Ford F100 F250 F350 F700 F800 | eBay

Also selling the AC unit I got from a 71 on my local CL. I need to buy parts for my '51 which is my current passion.... No need to upgrade the '67 as it is only a work truck. Just basic repairs as needed.

 

'51 been your passion. Ah,that's why I havn't seen you on here for a while. Glad to hear your '67 doing well.

 

Well been driving daily 7 days a week as a work horse and the truck still runs great. Still needs a heater core as one of the pipes is out of round and leaks a bit. But the heat doesn't really blow all that hot anyway.
I used it to haul my old 51 3/4 ton and it did it perfectly fine. I think my upper ball joint on the subframe is going out. Going to order a new one soon. $15 part.

I've had many people offer to buy the truck from me, but it is worth at least $4k to me, and most think it is worst $1500.

The rear end is making a growl during cruising and minor slowing down. I am not happy about this, but it is not really meant for all the car towing and beating I put on it. I am debating just pulling the rear end and swapping out with a whole newer unit.
I do not know how many miles this one had on it when I got it. The car said 95k, but the rear axle had been swapped on the car from the 4.10 to the 3.55 if memory serves. They just cut the parking brake cables.

Also really need new rear leaf springs. These are just too light, and with one broke on each side, needs attention.

 

I don't really update this thread much. My build is not all that fancy. I took about 100+ photos of the build but never posted them. Took videos instead and made a ****ty video series on YouTube of the conversion. Based off of that video series I now sell about 25-30 Crown Vic sub-frames locally a year. (or at least within 300 mile radius of my place near Nashville.)

Update though:

swapped in a T45 trans from a 2001??? Mustang. I don't like it really. Fits perfect, no need to make a new driveshaft as the one from the 4R70W fit perfect. I think I had to move the crossmember back 1 inch or something. Shifter fit through the floor in just the right spot. Tiny hole in floor which is closer to centerline of truck than I'd like. I need a short shifter to reduce the handle throw. Kind of a wide amount of space required from 1st to 5th and reverse.

Had to change out the rear axle due to continued right rear bearing failures. I even changed the axle itself first and it still would not hold up. Also this gave me the 3.55 lsd rather than the 3.27 lsd.

I use this truck for towing all the time. I put about 35,000 miles on it since the swap, but have not driven it much since May when I began using my BMW as a daily work truck.

I used it to pick up my wife's brand new car from the dealership and deliver it to her as a surprise. The sales people had never seen anyone do a move like this before.



Bought a photo prop for her work as I was taking my 1951 F2 project out to begin its transformation.....more on that in my other thread in those forums.






I was loaded with 3-4 crown vic subframes a DANA axle from a E350 Ambulance, and my X5 I found for $300.... total weight would have been around 14,000 pounds. From Detroit Michigan to Nashville. Towed just fine, and the brakes held up great. So to anyone who EVER says, that the aluminum crossmember is too weak for truck duty, they are very wrong.










finally got new headlight buckets.




Parked on a local island in the middle of a river I drove out on with the canoes....and my kid at 2 years old:

 

There you are. Nice to see some fresh pics on this thread.