Hi.

While I've got the bed off and cab torn apart, I suppose it's time to consider relocating the fuel tank. Or, removing the interior tank and installing a tank between the rear frame members somewhere. Obviously, this requires some questions (!!! surprise !!!).

What fuel cell do people use?
Where do they place it?
How do they fill it?
How do they reroute the exhaust?

Browsing the magazines, it seems some people
put them between the frame tubes at the rear
(between the rear axle and the bumper).

This seems like a good place, but it seems to
indicate that the exhaust MUST be routed out
the sides, perhaps before the rear tires (which
some seem to have done).

With the fuel cell moved that far back, the filler
must be in the left fender (step side), which means
a bunch of other work (are there clearance issues???).

If the fuel cell is ahead of the rear axle and between
the frame members, then the shape of the cell becomes
an issue (drive shaft clearance and exhaust heat).

I saw a magazine photo of a filler installed in the door
jamb, which seemed pretty cool, but it means the tank
was ahead of the rear axle. Unfortunately,they didn't
show a photo of the tank. Sigh.

How do you guys solve these problems?

I know I'm asking for a book, but just getting
pointed in the right direction will help.

Bob

 

Several avenues, it all depends on how handy you want to be. Some folks have pulled the tank, turned them 180 degrees and slapped it inside the bed at the front. The others have mounted a pre-1968 Mustang tank between the rails behind the axle, routing the filler cab into the bed floor. Still I have heard mention of mounting the original tank under the front of the bed. All are safer than having it sitting right behind you inside, it's just a metter of what you would be comfortable with. We will all be willing to help you out with instructions to a project, just ask.
--MG

 

Ok, I'll ask!

It seems that a reasonably good place to mount a fuel cell is between the frame rails behind the axle. I'll have to remove the spare tire carrier support member (plan on relocating the spare to the bed anyway). Once done, the available space is approximately 29" by 15".

I found an economy fuel cell in one of the catalogs I've accumulated recently that is 25.5x17.5x7.75 (22 gallon) . So, if I relocate one of the frame members forward 2 inches (or carve out part of the cross member), it should fit. I guess a flush mount filler plate would allow me to fill the tank through the bed floor. Any problem with using the plastic tanks vs the far-more-expensive aluminum tanks?

Also, the sending units available specify a GM 0-90ohm rating. What is the sending unit range for 63 fords?
Any other suggestions? What am I missing?

On another note, I'm looking forward more to the additional legroom than the increased safety factor.

Bob

 

Hey Bob:
check this webpage out, maybe it will help in the relocation

http://www.octm.com/dane/index24.htm

I don't quite know if you are attempting to install a fuel cell or a regular gas tank. If you go with a fuel cell, you can probably just put that in the bed and be done with it. There are fuel cells available for Mustangs as well that should bolt in just as a regular tank will. The fuel cell is generally more expensive as they are safer. I cannot comment on the plastic tanks, but I do understand your thinking as I am going to relocate my tank shortly and have run a few ideas around the noggin... I'm still digging around as to how I can mount underneath and fill from the side, may require adding a "tunnel" in the bed floor. Too many ideas, just need skills (or know someone who has them).
--MG

 

Thanks for the link. That's close to what I'm considering, actually, although I was thinking of using one of the plastic circle-track style cells (they're only $120 or so at the ricky-racer stores). This seems a bit simpler than making a custom frame as that guy did.

That is, you can buy strap kits for the fuel cells. Cut the cross member so it will fit, drill some mounting holes and bolt the strap kit in place with cell, then fix up the filler neck when I put the bed back on.

His 'stang tank looks like a cleaner install though. Guess he's going with a roll pan instead of a rear bumper (or will have to fabricate bumper mounts as well).

Still don't know the sender values I'll need though.

Bob

 

I've been going through this same thing with my 63. I also wanted to carry my spare somewhere other than sticking up in the bed (see gallery pics). I have settled on a 16 gallon fuel cell to be located right in the bed , and the spare is going underneath with a late model "winder" to raise and lower it (tommorow's project!). I'll disguise the fuel cell with some sort of cabinet-maybe a large ice chest cut out in the bottom-mainly to weather proof it. I feel the bed mounting is safest (bolted down), considering how many rear end wrecks I see. Anything is better than getting T-boned by an cell phone occupied Escalade with it in the cab.

 

I dont know what the exact dimensions of pre 65 fram rails are, but I installed a 16 gallon early mustang tank between the frame rails of my 66. I ran a filler hose from there between the frame and the bed, and out the side of the fleetside bed, above the fender well and back some. I put in an 84 ford bed fuel door and connected it that way.

I moved the crossmember back about 2 inches that was in the way, and fabricated a couple of cross braces using .5 x 1 inch tubing for the tank to sit on.

The only problem was the clearance between the rail and bed. There is only 3/4 of an inch available, so you have to find a way to make it fit. I squished my tubing and put found some scrap rubber and put in to keep it from rubbing on the bed and rails.

I am still having problems getting my fuel gauge to work now, as I have the mustang sender in the tank, and the original 66 guage in the truck. Not compatible, as I have heard some people say.

Like you, I would like to find the right resistors or capacitors? to get the correct OHMs. I am tired of carrying around a 5 gallon gas can when I run out of fuel...I get around 200 miles a tank full, but run out of gas once in a while. lol.

If anyone else out there can help us out with the OHMs that would be great!

Robert Nolan

 

This is just a sugestion. I was thinking of buying an external gas tank. They have them at tractor supply that actually looks pretty cool. You can either get them chromed or diamond decked.

They even have one that sits in the bed and has a cut-out in it so you can put a matching tool box on top of it (Kinda like playing tetris)

just my .02

Bill

 

I plan on using the mustang tank as well but didn't want the filler in the bed. My idea was to run the filler hose between the frame and bed as well. But instead of squishing the rubber to fit, I am going to nothch the rear of the frame to accept a pipe with a larger diameter than the hose and reinforce the notch with a boxing plate. Imagine a c-nocth for the rear axle on lowered trucks, except on top of the frame, close to the rear of the frame.

 

Krosati,
Exactly. I just didn't think about that at the time when I did it. My fill process is rather slow, also because the fill tube goes level for about 2 inches. Now that I have been thinking about it and have been getting tired of slow fill ups, I might go back and do that.

BTW, I received an email stating that the mustang tank sending unit would work with our truck's original gauge...perhaps I have not a good ground since my gauge isn't working?

I do have some pictures of the work that I did, although the pictures are pretty bad quality. An I am done with the process now, except final sanding.

Robert Nolan

 

For those that asked about sender resistance:

GM Fuel Senders are 0 to 90 Ohm

Ford/Chrysler Senders are 70 to 10 Ohm

They were listed in that order - Sorry, I couldn't really find out if that meant Ford / Chevy(gag) gauges are wired 'backwards' to each other or not...

 

I am going to explore an option that allows the spare to remain where it is and doesn't require cutting of the sheetmetal. Some 70s Suburbans had the tank outside the frame, in front of the left rear wheel. The filler neck and cap are inside the wheel opening. I'd like to hear more about this if anyone has ideas.
Eric

 

The idea of a tank outside the frame didn't appeal to me because the potential for getting "T-Boned" is pretty high, and it would be very vulnerable. Also the reason I shyed away from mounting it in the back, but I'm probably just too **** about being engulfed in flames.

 

Mounting the tank in between the box and the frame would probably work fine, just a matter of getting the right combination of parts. I know that if you switch your truck to a dump bed, it is a necessity that you relocate the filler tube to the inside of the fenderwell as you will not be able to use the stock location (this on the newer, post 70's trucks).
Personally I would like to hear more about the notched frame rail with the Mustang tank. Is the tank mounted with the filler towards the back or the front of the truck??? I was thinking that it would be cool to run a flip down license plate in the back nd hide the filler there. Issue of course would be gravity, or lack there of to fill the tank. The availability of the new tanks for Mustangs is crazy. I did the swap to new in the Cougar and it took all of about an hour....
--MG

 

In my truck, I turned the tank long ways and had the filler side facing the driver's side of the truck. I didn't notch the frame rail, but I plan on doing so in the near future as soon as I take the bed off again. The gravity fill is a problem as I stated I have a level horizontal section of about 2 inches or less between the frame and bed where the filler hose goes. Look at my gallery to get a basic idea. Remember the pictures are horrible, and currently I put a coat of primer on to find the high and low spots of the putty, so my pictures are not up to date and don't do the truck justice.

Robert