a few months back i bought a 67 long bed F100. Has a 360fe in it with a nasty sounding lifter tap. Runs great otherwise.

Paid $800 and it had a broken shift tube. I went cheap and put in a floor shift. My wife and I both prefer a manual floor shift anyway.
The homemade floor boards had to go as I found that previous people had fixed the rusted out cab mounts with 2x4 cut offs and a few other non-OEM repair parts.

I welded in new mounting pieces, new stamped floorboards and drive the truck a fair amount.

This is a poor paint job, but pretty much how i bought it.









I then recently bought a 04 Crown Vic. Lightly wrecked by the Tennessee State Troopers. Car ran perfect. Not even a check engine light. Originally I was going to just swap the front suspension. But upon further thought I decided to go and swap out the whole engine trans and rear end.

The CV has a nice 8.8 LSD with rear disk brakes. Should be better than the old 9 inch in there now that appears to be from a 1980 Bronco.

My only issues are fuel supply. I am hoping to find a returnless fuel tank from another car/truck that can be fitted and work. I do plan on retaining all emmissions on this engine. I intened on keeping everything, including wiring in a CEL to the dash. And the second major issue is making the speedo work. Thus far the only solutions I have found are swapping to an older style 4R70W transmission that has a cable output, swapping just the output shaft, or buying the Cable X box, or lastly just buying an aftermarket set of gauges that can take a VSS signal.

I'd prefer to use the stock gauge in the dash.

Most other stuff is minor. plumbing and tons of wiring to make all the CV ECM/PCM work right. I yanked most all the wiring out the car. About the only thing I think I forgot to remove was the plug to read codes from the computer.

Mechanically the swap should go easy. Other than a fuel tank, and speedo.

so if anyone has any input on this, please let me know.

 

Welcome to FTE
A common fuel tank swap is the early mustang tank mounted behind the axle , you can get the 22 gallon tank kit for $140 at mustangs unlimited , you will need to make a mount and loose the spare tire under the bed . do a search for mustang fuel tank .

 

I'll look into it. Not sure how hard it would be to make it work with the evap system though. I don't have a spare tire on the truck so that is not an issue. I've seen a few under bed mount jobs. I was more inclinded right now for a side tank from maybe a late 90's early 2000's Ranger if room permits.

Just bought a wiring manual for the CV. I have the Mitchell Ondemand program, but I can't just easily download the diagrams so figure the $23 for a book is a better option. There are only about 112 pages of wiring diagrams total for the car. Plus everything for the truck.

Upon doing a lot of reading, mostly on the Mustang forums I should be able to convert to a return line set up if I remove the pressure sensor on the end of the fuel rail T fit it and hook a line ther with a regulator instead. Some places say I'd need to "tune" or mod the PCM to not try and control the fuel pump. I doubt that would be needed. I doubt it takes any signal from the pump. I just mount the old fuel pressure sensor on the T and leave it hooked up. PCM will never know as long as the regulator was working right. That would open up a ton of fuel tanks.

 

Ok, over the last week or so I've put in many many long hours. I have both photos and 3-4 videos done already. Just gotta locate data cable.

4.6 is in and fits "ok".

8.8 LSD rear is mostly in but still requires shock mounts relocated as the swaybar and Crown Vic exhaust sytem I am using prevents the stock locations being viable.

Current issues left:

fuel delivery. I tried a 95 Ranger tank but it would hang WAY too low. I am currently leaning to tool box in the bed modded for a tank or the Mustang as mentioned. The issue with the Mustang is I have a hitch welded into the frame. I WILL be using the hitch.

drive shaft..... gotta go 2 piece and custom.

steering wheel/column. I am currently leaning to the stock auto version to make it look right.

only 50% of wiring is figured out which took about half a day. Should not be too hard at this point.

Instrument cluster is not going to be very hard it seems but the stock unit is going away for the Crown Vic

Frame needs a bit of cutting to fit the radiator.

Today I hope ti finish up the radiator, reinstall the front end and leave it for a few weeks. (I live about 2 hour drive each way from the shop I am doing work in) I also work night shift so time is at a premium. I plan to finish by spring time. At a later date the cab and bed will come out for some resto maybe.

 

As I said above I am taking poor videos and taking pictures. I figure if only 1 or two small tips help someone else out it was worth it. I put in the descriptions that this is not a show truck and not pretty. I am not a good welder but my parts do not fall off.

Yes, I have orange hair currently, and look like a meth head. I am not.

This should be part 1


Part 2


I have 2 more videos that show more on the rear end about 80 photos of how i made my cuts/welds and issues i ran into. Frequently I film things and find later I was wrong. So in the first video it says the converters cleared the old control arm brackets, but it turned out they did not once I bolted up the remaining exhaust system with the Crown Vic H-pipe.

I'll try and only post up useful images with a description of each for perspective.

Here is a few tips.

You CAN use nearly the ENTIRE exhaust system from a CVPI. You just need to add about 15-20" in the straight sections after the H-pipe.


The rear end fits well, but requires the shocks put on the back side of the axle. The front and rear sway bars can be added pretty easy. You NEED a 2 piece driveshaft if you have the longbed.

Swapping the control arm brackets makes it easy to position them under the frame rail, however you need to shave the new "inner" side of them down to clear the converters if you use them.

Your inner fenders require about 2 inches of triming along the bottom to clear the new suspension.

The CVI raidaotr DOES fit the frame without cutting, but the stock truck core support requires some cutting to fit.

a 69.5 6 groove belt fits the pulleys on the front, if you want an AC delete.


You must cut out both front crossmembers to clear engine and trans assuming you are using the auto trans. Don't cut them both out until the front is held apart/together. Removing the front one it more time consuming than expected. Getting your bolt hole locations is a bit tough and took lots of drill bits. We used good HSS bits but some did not last long. Others worked great over and over.

I got my front end even to within .08 of an inch. (assuming the old frame was straight and square.)

 

1965/73 Mustang fuel tanks.

No Evap/Em until 1970. Was mandatory in sold new in CA Passenger Cars, F100's, Bronco's and Econolines initially.

So, 1970 Mustang/Cougar came with or without Evap/Em as it depended on state emission requirements.

1971/73's AFAIK, all have Evap/Em as there's only one fuel tank listed.

"As original" capacities: 16 gallon: 1965/68 / 20 gallon: 1969 / 20 gallon" 1970 with Evap/Em, 22 gallon without Evap/Em / 20 gallon: 1971/73.

 

I am putting MODERN evap/emissions on my truck. Which means a tank from 98 or newer for sure, and likely 2003 or newer Ford. Right now I am leaning to the new Mustang tank. Should be small enough to fit after looking at one yesterday.

But my reason for updating the thread is that if anyone is looking for a driveshaft here was my solution:

Start with the Crown vic shaft and pick up a shaft from a 1995 Ranger "Kingcab" or extended cab. The longest wheelbase of that year. Swap the front yoke out from the CV to the Ranger. Add a small plate for mounting just a few inches further forward of where the original F100 mounting plate is. I am just welding a plate to the old one and drilling the two holes. My plate on my truck was 1 inch or so too far back.

Take the slip yoke off the Ranger and take into a driveshaft place. Assuming you mounted (and I mounted my engine correctly), you will need a driveshaft 48.875" (48 7/8ths) . from center to center. This means from the center of the U-joint on the back half of the Ranger shaft, to the center of the U-joint on the diff flange from the Crown Vic.

Should fit fine.

 

I picked up a whole tank from a 2001 Mustang, complete with all lines and hoses. It is a returnless style and with the fuel pump control module that I also picked up from the pick and pull in Nashville it should just be a matter of buying a long length of aluminum fuel line and wiring it up. Sadly use of this tank means I have to cut out the hitch. I figure I should be able to create a new hitch around it though. Currently I am getting funny looks by driving around town for 2 days with a gas tank on the roof of my BMW.

Anyway, this is the stance of the truck as it sits now. front end is just sitting in place and not bolted up obviously. Still looking for tires.



Here is the rear end. It now has a rear sway, and is getting some nice monotube shocks. Sadly all I can get to fit are 12" shocks.



still no steering column, and note the ECM installed in the firewall.



This engine sits crazy low in the engine bay:




front swaybar installed:

 

Man that's coming along nicely, I can't wait to find a cv frontend for mine!
Do you mind getting me the measurement from the center of the front wheel hub to the bottom of the fender opening???

 

One small issue with this swap is if you intend on retaining the donor cars emissions (and I am because I like retaining the HP and not having to pay cash to have the PCM re-flashed) your upstream O@ stills dangerously close to the frame rail...... so notched frame is required. I then cut a piece of pipe and filled the new groove:









Other issues i ran into..... during my front suspenstion swap I found one side had a centering washer on the control arm and the otherside did not.



So I just welded a large washer to maintain symatry. I might lose alighnment adjustment, but not sure yet. Also both rear control arm plates were swapped from side to side to make them both end up directly under the frame rails....welding might not be pretty, but good enough for a nut.







This is a semi important series of photos..... say you got over zealous with your plasma or grinder getting the old crossmember out and did not pay attention to the centerline of the stock wheels. Thankfully Ford did the work for you (or me anyway)





From that hole you can begin basing your numbers for the two main bolt holes:









Also, the Crown Vic subframe has a pair of center dowels. These are aluminum, so try not to mash them too much.

Also the frame is a little over 1/2 inch too short. So most people use washers to shim it up. There happened to be some 1/2 thick aluminum plate laying around:









A level was used to verify I am getting this nice and even. I figured this was important if I wanted to not have a tail stock on the trans pointed too high or low or pre-stress the motor mounts.



After all the drill bits that went into the trash doing this, the hole were drilled and thick walled steel tubes welded in place the frame got boxed in:



Here is my father in law using the big air chisle on the old rivets:



Some of my simple rear control arm mounting:







This photo shows why you have to remove the next crossmember.... assuming you stuck with the auto trans from the Crown Vic:







I have a lot more photos and a few more useful numbers that need uploading still....


Suggestions are welcome.

Currently if the fuel tank fits, my only major issue is which brake booster to try and make work . I have the MC from the Crown Vic in hand, but not the booster. I also have the MC from the truck which I doubt is all the good. There is a TON of room to add a huge booster if one wanted to. The stock booster and MC might not have enough ***** to work the new brakes so I am seriously thinking of finding any old CV booster and making it work.

The other issue is steering column. I read the threads on the late 60s Caddys.... seems interesting if I can find one for cheap. I like my steakknife steering wheel, but whatever.

If anyone has a reasonably priced auto column I'd love to hear from you.

Lastly, this wiring is more fun than should be had by one man. I work nights, and have an 18 month old daughter. So i only get time to work on the wiring after I get home at 3am..... which is after a long night of tiring work. Hard to focus as wiring diagrams, (both online and paper) and trace wires. Slowing getting it done though.

 

See if the numbers I have in the photos above will help you. The 26.5 inches if from the edge of the square hole in my frame to the approx centerline of that hole in the frame. Later photos will show a new number to base your "massaging" of your holes when installing the front end. That will be something like 22.7" or something.

That is from the machined surface on the new subframe to the same square hole.

It is from the face right below the upper yoke on the frame I think the photo might show where I marked it.



This measuring tape is NOT metric along the bottom edge but decmial and was about 22.7 or a hair under:

 

I was talkin more about ride hight. Center of the wheel to lower fender lip

 

Next time I am out there I'll put a tape on it and find out.


Also, center of wheel will only apply to the wheel i am using which is a 17 with thin sidewalls. The number is a value yes, but not the drop of the frame which should be measured from the ground to the frame rail, or bottom edge of the fender, or other truck part. I also intend on getting larger truck tires for this which will raise me back up a bit.

I live a few hours drive from where i am doing the work at and only get a few weekends now and then to work on it.

 

The number asked for about the center of the wheel to the lower edge of fender is 15 inches.

Plenty was done including installing the Crown Vic instrument cluster which was not really that hard. I have video of all this, just need to go through it and post it up with a linky here.

I made a hybrid steering column. It is half from a manual and half auto trans. The auto trans one I got was hacked up. Only thing that wont work is the lever for shifting. It shifts the trans fine, but you don't need to pull the lever forward to do so. Gotta keep the kid from playing it in.

I made a simple linkage to the Crown Vic that I took video of and explain what to do as well. Really simple. You just need a small section of the the CV column and a decent welder. Took about 5 minutes.


Custom driveshaft seems to fit great. That is also in the video, and gives numbers and your source for minimal work and how-to.

I put some truck tires on the wheels. I think they were 265 70/17 or something.

Gas pedal from a straight 6 out of a 68 seems the solution. It required me to bend it in a vice to get the exact right pull on the throttle. The V8 had a wierd arm/rod connections. It required a drilling of one hole in the firewall to make it work and a second hole for the throttle cable to route.
The CV throttle cable clicked into it like stock.

radiator is basically in, and the old one will get sold on CL or scrapped. Looks like the tanks are copper.

Wiring is still happening. I work on it for a few hours every frew days. I am in no rush, and everything is getting soldered. I am putting the harness on a serious diet. Looks like nearly every warning light on the dash should work correctly when I am done, including open gas cap and ABS.

Fuel tank is where I am sort of stuck at.



As I understand it the frame rails should be about the same as all other F100-F350 through 1979 correct? I have a tank from a 2001 Mustang, which is returnless, however it fails in depth. It won't fit under the bed pretty like. So I was going to install in the bed and build a nice box for it. After looking as the behind the axle tanks at the yard, I see no reason to not use one of those.

Is there any reason that a 75-79 rear tank won't/can't fit in the area? I can run plumbing, and make mounting brackets. Then I would weld/braze in the ports for the Mustang fuel pump/sending unit and emissions ports, adding a few internal baffles around the pump opening to deal with slosh. Rear axle tanks are about 8.13 inches tall and the Mustang pump unit is about 7 inches so should fit, I just will never get that last bit of gas out the tank unless the pump is recessed in.

New tanks are under $90 shipped on Rockauto. Or even eBay.

I am trying to figure out why people go and buy tanks for a 1970 Mustang when the tanks meant for the trucks are cheaper. Do you guys know something I don't?

Anyway i hope to upload videos. I also plan on if possible listing all the wiring you NEED and what to keep if you want to slim down the wiring from the car. If your doing this on the cheap like me.

 

thanks for the in depth write up. this looks like my game plan to update a 70 f350 crew that's slated for the driveway soon.