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Blower Motor Inoperable

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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 09:52 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
When you say it only operates on low speed do you mean only the low speed position works or it only runs on low speed regardless of position?
If it runs on low regardless of position I would say that the switch itself is working and your problem is elsewhere.
One place to look, although I don't think this will be it because when this fails usually you either have no speed or only high speed, is the blower resistor. It's mounted in the plenum above the trans. tunnel. You can visually check it. It has the electrical plug and two plastic rivets that retain it. Remove it from the housing and look at the three little coils of wire, see if any are burnt through and broken. If none are broken then it's good. But like I said, usually if there is a break you'll lose your lower speeds and only have high speed.
If that checks okay I would strongly suspect the blower motor itself is going bad.....you have my sympathy .
Thank you so, soo much!!

The fan only operates, on what seems to be, the slowest speed. That happens no matter what position the blower switch itself is placed in.

I will check that relay a bit later. Sadly, I also thought that the motor may be on the way out itself. I really, really hope not, but we'll see. I have a blower switch coming in today. Once I play with that and check that relay, I'll know for sure, as there'll be no other explanation.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 10:15 AM
  #32  
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One thing you could do to check the blower motor, not really scientific or anything. Unplug the blower motor, that's the plug right next to the evaporator. It will have an orange and black wire that goes into the a/c right next to the evaporator. Run a wire from black to ground and run a wire from a 12v source to the orange wire, if I have this backwards no big deal, the blower will run reverse. See how the blower runs now. If it's good you should see it running at high speed. If it's still slow then looks like you'll be changing a blower motor .
Heres the plug and wire for the blower motor. It the one that goes through at the 12:00 o'clock position.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 10:46 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
One thing you could do to check the blower motor, not really scientific or anything. Unplug the blower motor, that's the plug right next to the evaporator. It will have an orange and black wire that goes into the a/c right next to the evaporator. Run a wire from black to ground and run a wire from a 12v source to the orange wire, if I have this backwards no big deal, the blower will run reverse. See how the blower runs now. If it's good you should see it running at high speed. If it's still slow then looks like you'll be changing a blower motor .
Heres the plug and wire for the blower motor. It the one that goes through at the 12:00 o'clock position.
You're already onto something that I was going to say next . . .

When I had the controls out of the dash, I ran a hot wire from the battery to the blower motor slot in the 3-prong plug that connects to the last part you gave me the numbers for -- the motor ran, but I don't recollect it being at any wide-open pace. I seem to remember it running a little faster than it does now, but I can't be sure. I'll know when I plug that new blower switch in later.

As of now, I'm already counting on having to replace the motor . . . Dang!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 11:02 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by 94150
As of now, I'm already counting on having to replace the motor . . . Dang!
........'nuff said!
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 03:43 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by 94150
Called LMC Truck, had to order both switches because they couldn't note the difference but agreed to take the incorrect one back.

My luck, they had the most expensive one, and the other was on back order. The one should be here in a few days. If it fixes the issues, I can cancel the other before it comes in.

BTW, shipping on two little switches . . . Outrageous! $24!! I understand it's on a price scale, but GEEZE!

Thanks for all of the help!!
Mikeo0o0o0,

Not to beat a dead horse or anything, but that other switch (to my surprise) came in today. I was going to call and cancel it, and the next thing I knew, the mailman was ringing the doorbell. Lol.

Anywho, for those who are in the same situation I was in, I'll let you in on a little secret . . . From what I can tell by visual examination, both switches (one is $79 & the other is $59) look to be the same.

The only difference I can tell is the switch that came in 1st (the Dennis Carpenter $79 switch) has DC's logo and a "Ford Original Tooling" sticker on the little baggie. This $59 switch is in a plain, clear baggie with nothing on it except for LMC's part number.

My guess is the cheaper switch is of Chinese origin, thus the cheaper price. I know nothing of the durability or any other difference in the switches, as the DC switch is already in the truck and staying. I just wanted to let you other FTE'ers know, in case you ever had to have one of these, that the only difference seems to be the manufacturer. And of course, to go a long with that, I'm sure that the Dennis Carpenter switch, being a "Ford" part and Made In The USA, is a much more quality part.

Now, to add to that, I'm not wanting to offend anyone or start a "war" about where parts are made, their quality, etc. I just know from my experience, that "white box Chinese" stuff you get off of eBay and what-not has never been near the fit, quality, or design of the more "mainstream" aftermarket accessories, not to mention something made with the original tooling that, most likely, the 30+ year old part you're replacing was made with.

Just my $.02
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #36  
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Thanks for the heads-up.
I agree about the white box stuff. If I'm not concerned about fit, finish or longevity (people that know me are laughing there a$$es off right now) I'll buy Chinese, other than that I try to locate NOS pieces.
 
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Old Dec 10, 2012 | 04:38 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by fmc400
If you look through the thread in more detail, he was able to verify that he had power going IN to the selector switch, but not OUT under conditions when one would suspect otherwise. He was able to get the fan to come on by bypassing the switch. This takes the fuse out of the equation completely.

I understand the scenario you described, it's completely possible and there's a logical explanation for seeing what you saw. But without more detail from you on why you were suggesting what you suggested, there was no way for anyone to differentiate what you said from one of the many posts by people who read a thread title and immediately respond, creating confusion for the person seeking help.

Not looking for a pissing contest here, your thread not offend anybody, and of course you don't need to check with anyone before posting. But if I took a lot of time to help someone work through a problem and someone adds an ambiguous statement at the end that may cause confusion, you can be sure I'll chime in. I certainly apologize if I offended you.
I understand your statement here. No problems here. I hope he finds the solution to the problem.
 
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Old Dec 11, 2012 | 12:14 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by mikeo0o0o0
If it's still slow then looks like you'll be changing a blower motor .
Welp, it's official! - -

I installed the new switch today. You can hear the fan come on when you switch to "vent" and the switch is in "lo". Over the next two or three positions, except for "hi", you can hear the fan slowly pick up speed. Then, when you get to "hi", it loses a little bit of speed.

So, looks like I'll be replacing the motor . . .

I'm not going to do it just yet... The main goal out of this was to, at least, obtain the use of the defroster. As of now, I have enough "oomph" from the blower motor to do that, as long as it doesn't fail me in the field. Lol.

I've purchased some used seat belt latches that have yet to come in. When they get here, I'm going to remove the seat, do some refinishing on the floorboards, as they were replaced with new panels in '03, and lastly before the seat is re installed, I'll replace the blower motor. I think before I actually tear into it completely, I'm going to buy the new motor and temporarily wire it to the plug next to the evaporator, just to make sure that it functions properly, and I have no other issues before I make the final step towards tearing into the box.

This is the 1st problem that I've ever had in my life where I had multiple issues affecting the same component. I guess this is my initiation to working on something almost 35 years old that's sat up almost half of its life...

Thanks, thanks, THANKS again, EVERYONE, for your help! It'll probably be a month or more before I tear into the box. But, when I do, I'll keep y'all posted.
 
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Old Jun 19, 2013 | 09:35 PM
  #39  
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I'm back!! Sorry for the delay. We've been without the Internet since December.

Using the site suggested by tbear853 (thanks!), I replaced the blower motor and heater core. While I was in there, I went ahead and removed the whole dash and all of the ducts for a thorough cleaning to eradicate all of the dirt-dobber nests.

That site is hands-down a "two-thumbs up" recommendation on my end. It went flawlessly. The only thing that was unexpected was that the seal around the A/C lines was more troublesome that I thought it'd be, and I had to "wrestle" the condenser a little more than once thought.

Now, everything is groovy! Thanks again, everyone!
 
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