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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

Blower quit, need help!

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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:30 PM
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mse871859949
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Blower quit, need help!

Hello FTE,

I have a 1980 f350 with a 400 and it's my baby I fricking love this truck. That aside, the PO converted the old AC to R134 and it works really well. Today I pulled into the auto parts store to fix my POS mustang, AC was blowing cold. Turned the truck off and when I came back the blower motor would not run. The AC works, but the fan won't turn on. It's lame.

Here's what I know. Fan will not run on any setting. The 30 amp fuse is good. The blower fan works fine (I hardwired it). I pulled the red resistor out and it looks good, not burned or anything. What should I check next? I was going to check the power to the resistor with a 12v continuity test next. If power is good to the resistor, it must be the resistor right? If there is no power to the resistor...would it definitely be the switch? Please help!
 
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 09:50 PM
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granny_rocket
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From: North Western New Jersey
Originally Posted by mse871859949
Hello FTE,

I have a 1980 f350 with a 400 and it's my baby I fricking love this truck. That aside, the PO converted the old AC to R134 and it works really well. Today I pulled into the auto parts store to fix my POS mustang, AC was blowing cold. Turned the truck off and when I came back the blower motor would not run. The AC works, but the fan won't turn on. It's lame.

Here's what I know. Fan will not run on any setting. The 30 amp fuse is good. The blower fan works fine (I hardwired it). I pulled the red resistor out and it looks good, not burned or anything. What should I check next? I was going to check the power to the resistor with a 12v continuity test next. If power is good to the resistor, it must be the resistor right? If there is no power to the resistor...would it definitely be the switch? Please help!
if its not the physical switch (the switch applies power to different coils on the resistor which is what gives you the different speeds) it is possible the internal fuse went bad. I found this out the "hard" way and was about to go fork out $30 or whatever ridiculous price it was going to cost me until I discovered there's a thermal fuse in the resistor pack. If you look, there's a little black looking thing (kinda looks like a diode). You should be able to just check continuity across it. If that's your problem it was a $3.50 radio shack part and I just soldered mine in.

I would suggest checking your switch, most likely its not the thermal fuse. I only blew my fuse because I was jerking around....its a very long story involving fire. ha!

Keep us posted.
 
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 10:00 PM
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mse871859949
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I know exactly what your talking about on the resistor itself. I will check that. How do i check the switch? it's a PITA to reach behind the dash... I suppose I should also check power on the fuse box?
 
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Old Jul 2, 2014 | 10:59 PM
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granny_rocket
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as for the switch, if you pull the plug going to the resistor (it should have 4 wires? if i remember correctly). Working with the female end... set your meter for voltage.
1) Go in cab, turn key on and turn blower on low.
2) meter across any 1 terminal and ground. One of those terminals should show power...in fact it should show a full 12 volts. (The resistor is what then drops the power...)
3) go back to cab and click switch up 1 click.
4) meter another terminal (one that isn't the one you found power on) to ground.
5) repeat until all switch positions are checked.

If you don't see power after step 2 then it's possible you may have a fuse blown. Check that at the fuse panel then repeat step 1.

Basically if you see power at any one of those 4 terminals that means the switch is working.

It's much more simple than it sounds. Late night and exhaustion makes for a not-so-concise explanation.

good luck
 
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Old Jul 4, 2014 | 07:33 AM
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I haven't fixed it yet...but i diagnosed the problem! I think I roasted the resistor when i was fiddling with it...which is not a huge deal. I finally took apart he damn climate control assembly and whilst doing so noticed that the blower worked fine (now only on high because the resistor was shot) when i played with the A/C selector. I took the part off and it seems to be what was causing the issue. I think the switch is going bad. I don't want to mess with trying to fix it, it's too much a PITA to get out of the dash, so I ordered one off Ebay. Should be here next week. Here's the part.
Motorcraft YH367 Pickup AC Selector Vacuum Valve

Found one for 35 and a resistor for 25. Not too bad considering...the time and frustration it took to diagnose the problem was a worse expense! Thank you for helping me out grandma!
 
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