Called LMC Truck, had to order both switches because they couldn't note the difference but agreed to take the incorrect one back.

My luck, they had the most expensive one, and the other was on back order. The one should be here in a few days. If it fixes the issues, I can cancel the other before it comes in.

BTW, shipping on two little switches . . . Outrageous! $24!! I understand it's on a price scale, but GEEZE!

Thanks for all of the help!!

 

That one is the A/C mode switch. The Ford parts catalog only shows one switch from 73-79.

Valve assy., A/C vacuum selector
Fits: 73-79 F100-250 w/ integral A/C
D5TZ-19B888-A Motorcraft# YH-285

Dennis Carpenter Obsolete, Concord, NC has 204 (704) 786-8139
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 6 (800) 543-4959
Others are available

I avoid LMC, anything they sell is made by someone else and can usually be found cheaper someplace else.

 

Cool, I'll give one of those places a call today to see how they compare price-wise.

It's been about 5 years since I've ordered anything from LMC Truck. I've never ordered any replacement panels from them, but I have ordered a few things like what I just ordered last night . . . Stuff that parts stores don't carry and the dealer is way too high on. In my experience, 5 years ago but maybe not now, those parts were OEM, or at least OE-replacement. I told myself last night that I was curious to see if this part would come in a Motorcraft box or not.

BIG thanks for your recommendation! Where do you get your info?

 

Called Dennis Carpenter, $75 for the part -- $9.99 for shipping.

I lost a little bit on this deal going with LMC, but I'll remember DC for sure with my future purchases!

And, I didn't even know they existed . . .

 

Dennis Carpenter is probably the largest manufacturer of oem spec reproduction Ford parts around. He also has the obsolete parts business too. If you want a complete NEW '40 Ford coupe body, he's got you covered.
www.dennis-carpenter.com

 

Got that part, after all it's a Dennis Carpenter part! Lol.

 

With LMC you never know what you're going to get untill you receive the package.
I've gotten NOS parts still in the Ford box, Dennis Carpenter parts still in the DC packaging and a lot of "white box" Chinese crap.

 

I've never really ordered a lot from LMC -- a new radiator support for a newer F150 I had and some glass seals. I also ordered an intermittent wiper control module for the same truck, which was an OE part -- never any "white box" stuff yet. That's about it...

This is the first time I've ordered from LMC in several years, now I know about Dennis Carpenter, and he'll be my 1st call next time.

Thanks again!

 

Change the fuse to the heater blower. I checked my fuses and all looked good. I spent the whole day changing the blower motor only to find out it wasn't the problem. Changed the fuse for the heck of it and it now runs. Fuse looked to be good but wasn't. 10 second job, can't hurt to give it a shot. Good luck.

 

Update ::

I put everything back together today. The new switch has everything working as it should, even the A/C compressor. Kinda ticked this truck only gets about 8mpg . . . My daily driver doesn't have A/C! Lol.

Anywho, I am going to have to go ahead and get a blower switch, as the current switch doesn't change the speed. It only blows at the slowest rate. I plan on taking the advice of twise and also replacing the switch in hopes the the fan will operate at all speeds. Maybe it won't be the regulator, nor the blower motor itself.

I do have ONE last question, though . . .

With this truck sitting up since 2003, does anyone have any suggestions for things I need to do to insure that the A/C compressor is properly lubricated and functioning as it should? A good mechanic friend of my Grandfather's properly charged the system with R12 in '03, but it's been stagnant since.

Also, this is my 1st "old-school" setup . . . If the system is low of freon, will the compressor still run, or will it not run like the newer vehicles when the freon level is low?

Thanks again, everyone!

 

Did you not read any of this thread?

 

Sure did!

 

FMC400. I did read the thread. Should I check with you before making any future post? You said to "check" the fuse. I said to "change" the fuse. I had power to both ends of the fuse in my truck. However I decided to change it anyway and then had power to the blower motor. So, yes I did read the thread.
Sorry if this thread offends you in any way.

 

If you look through the thread in more detail, he was able to verify that he had power going IN to the selector switch, but not OUT under conditions when one would suspect otherwise. He was able to get the fan to come on by bypassing the switch. This takes the fuse out of the equation completely.

I understand the scenario you described, it's completely possible and there's a logical explanation for seeing what you saw. But without more detail from you on why you were suggesting what you suggested, there was no way for anyone to differentiate what you said from one of the many posts by people who read a thread title and immediately respond, creating confusion for the person seeking help.

Not looking for a pissing contest here, your thread not offend anybody, and of course you don't need to check with anyone before posting. But if I took a lot of time to help someone work through a problem and someone adds an ambiguous statement at the end that may cause confusion, you can be sure I'll chime in. I certainly apologize if I offended you.

 

When you say it only operates on low speed do you mean only the low speed position works or it only runs on low speed regardless of position?
If it runs on low regardless of position I would say that the switch itself is working and your problem is elsewhere.
One place to look, although I don't think this will be it because when this fails usually you either have no speed or only high speed, is the blower resistor. It's mounted in the plenum above the trans. tunnel. You can visually check it. It has the electrical plug and two plastic rivets that retain it. Remove it from the housing and look at the three little coils of wire, see if any are burnt through and broken. If none are broken then it's good. But like I said, usually if there is a break you'll lose your lower speeds and only have high speed.
If that checks okay I would strongly suspect the blower motor itself is going bad.....you have my sympathy .
In answer to your other questions, yes the compressor will operate on a low refrigerant charge, to a point. This system doesn't have a pressure switch like modern systems, instead it uses a temperature switch (that's that little switch mounted next to the evaporator with the green and brown wires going to it) that senses the evaporator temp. When it gets cold enough to freeze up, indicating a low refrigerant charge, it shuts off the compressor.
Lastly, the York (or Techumseh) compressor used on this system has a separate oil sump, like a two cylinder engine, and should be checked with a dipstick. Go here: www.164club.org/service/york.pdf and check page 7.
Also, here is a picture of the resistor I was talking about. The first picture you can see the hole where it mounts in the upper righ corner. The second picture is a new resistor and the third are the coils that can burn out (in this picture the middle coil is burnt out and broken).


EDIT: I'm going to correct myself on the resistor. Depending on which coil fails you could still have some of the lower speeds, BUT, regardless of which one fails, you will always lose the lowest speed and always have high speed. On "low" the power has to go through all three resistor coils, on "high" you're bypassing the resistor completely.