LOL. Honestly, Ray probably gave you the right answer. That's a classic scenario of a bad coil OR your coil could have been inorrectly reversed. You said above it's a 6 volt positive ground. If that's the case, make sure the positive lug of the coil is connected to the distributor wire. If it's hooked up correctly, I'd go get myself a new 6 volt coil tomorrow. Five bucks says that's your problem.

 

eab v8 in truck have the 8da on stand need to be painted

 

will check in morning

 

Another old solution for vapor lock. If you still have the steel line going from the fuel pump to the carb, attach a wooden clothes pin to the line. It does the same this as the grapefruit.

 

thanx, heading to parts store, gave up on uploading pics

 

When the engine gets hot and will not start, does the starter turn the engine at the same speed as when your engine is cold?

If your engine is cranking slow, you have one or more of the following: undersize starter cables, weak starter, or an engine that gets way too tight when it gets hot.

If your engine is cranking at normal speed but not starting you have a fuel or a spark issue. A fuel issue can be too much gas or not enough gas. Spark issue is always not enough spark.

With the alcohol in the gas today I found I have to lower the float about 1/4 to 3/8 of an inch to maintain correct fuel level in the float bowl. Too high a fuel level can cause gas to expand while the carburetor heat soaks and run down the inside of your carburetor flooding the engine.
If you have a weak fuel pump, a fuel pump push rod that is too short, or a worn out eccentric on your cam you won't pump enough gas when the engine is hot. The quick check for this is to take your air cleaner off, look down the inside of the carburetor, and open the throttle. You should see two streams of gas from the accelerator pump.

A spark issue can be checked by pulling one spark plug wire at the distributor cap and holding it 1/4 inch out while cranking the engine. You should get a healthy blue spark. A weak red spark or no spark can be caused by burned or improperly gapped points, a weak coil, or a bad condenser.

Diagnose before replacing parts. Trying to correct a problem by replacing parts when you don't know what is causing the problem is usually an effort in frustration.

 

Well, I came back to this thread to elaborate a bit but 38 coupe pretty much said what I was going to.
Vapor lock is usually a very hot weather problem. I've seen the problem exacerbated by in line filters between the fuel pump and the carb. I would suspect a filter hanging in the engine compartment ahead of the fuel pump could allow fuel to get hotter than normal and cause problems also. You want fuel to get into the carb ASAP. The longer it remains in a hot engine compartment the greater chances of vapor lock.
The first thing to do is check to see if you have spark. If you have spark, look for fuel in the carb. A very easy to determine if you have a fuel problem is to shoot a blast of starting fluid into the carb. If you have a fuel starvation issue, the starting fluid will furnish enough fuel to start the engine.
FWIW, I can not remember a carburetor percolation problem where it would not start. Lots of black smoke when it did start but it would fire and start. If it is flooded, hold throttle open, do not pump accelerator, and try to start. ANd last but a possibility is a blown power valve or economizer valve in the carb that allows fuel to leak through the carb and into the engine. A bad power valve would result in hard starting any time the engine had been shut down for a while.
Don't know what you've done, have not gone back and read all the replies but a tune up would never hurt.

 

thanx guys for the info, i do have a few issues one is with the fuel pump and carb the other is the engine do seem tight will be working on these things in the next few days will keep you informed