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Today was a very productive day, I got the entire truck put back together and built the dual exhaust, fired up the engine and got the cam broke in. Hopefully I will take it for a test drive next weekend and report back on the performance of the new engine.
here's a list of what I ended up with:
1977 (early) highboy
NP 435
4.10's
35's
ENGINE:
390 .030 over
H395P pistons .030 in the hole
XE262H cam lifters and springs
Dual roller timing set (I even bought a degree wheel to check cam timing)
D2 heads
Performer intake
Tri-Y headers
2 1/2" dual exhaust thru flowmasters
Duraspark dizzy
Thanks for all the help FTE on my first engine build
I know this is a fairly mild build but I wanted to do everything right and I can't believe how easy is was to use the degree wheel, it only took me about 10 min to verify that the cam was ground correctly with 4 degree's of advance, also an FYI for all the new (to FE's) guy's like me, don't forget to plug the front sump dipstick hole when using the highboy rear sump pan, I got lucky here and noticed it when I was bolting on the oil filter adapter.
Between FTE helping me pick the correct parts and Big block ford engines by Steve Christ it went really smooth, the only snag I had was the Holley jet that slid down the hole (which I was able to fish out)and the machine work on the heads was a little off, all the exhaust valves were .010 lower than the intakes valves but luckily the pushrods were the correct length and all the lifter pre-loads check out great.
the only snag I had was the Holley jet that slid down the hole (which I was able to fish out).
What size jet did you use (they can't go anywhere btw) most guys use a .60 or .70
Personally, on a street motor with a stock pump (that will rarely see north of 3K rpm) I don't think they're really needed, but it seems to be a popular "fix"
I used an 80., also a little trick I found for pre-lubing or priming the engine, I used a magnetic bit holder for my cordless screw gun it accepts the 1/4" oil pump shaft perfectly and the outside diameter is the same size as the bottom of the dizzy shaft.
I'm not sure on the oil pressure yet, I am still running the stock gauges, during break-at 2,000 rpm and at full temp my gauge was reading just past the halfway to almost 3/4, I will be picking up some new gauges for the test drive next weekend.
I'm not sure on the oil pressure yet, I am still running the stock gauges, during break-at 2,000 rpm and at full temp my gauge was reading just past the halfway to almost 3/4, I will be picking up some new gauges for the test drive next weekend.
Grrr put some real gauges on there, mechanical or electrical, your option (though I highly recommend mechanical)
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