You must have a complete circuit. If you do not, the starter will not work. It is unclear if you do. I see that you mention bran new jumper cables from battery to starter a couple times, but nothing about connecting the block to the battery.
You need a heavy cable from the positive battery terminal to the solenoid, a heavy cable from the solenoid to the starter, and a heavy cable from the engine block to the negative battery terminal. I'm thinking you are missing the heavy ground cable from the block to the negative terminal. Low power things may function just fine with only the engine mounting bolts as the ground but a high powered thing like the starter will not.

An unrelated thought, if your engine is in fact a T-Bird engine, sell the T-Bird stuff to a T-Bird guy, replace it with car or truck stuff and have a nice thick wallet left over! It's probably not a T-Bird engine.

 

Shouldn't the starter work outside the vehicle when I hook up the cables? I will get heavy duty cables and another solenoid and ensure everything is hooked up correctly.

Here is the post when I was trying to find out exactly what block I have: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-question.html

ECZ on the main caps and on the rockers ECG 6564. They said I have the high lift rockers and tach driven distributor. What's an engine like this worth?

 

The starter should work outside the vehicle as long as it is properly grounded.

What you have is not a T-bird motor by any stretch. It is a 312 with parts from at least 2 different motors. The distributor is not a tach drive. When you get your starter issue resolved, be sure to upgrade to a '57 or newer distributor. The load-o-matic you have will not play nice with a newer carb.

It also looks like you know how to wire the starter based on a diagram you have in that post. Make sure you are wiring it like that and it should work.

 

Thanks! Whenever it gets running I will be sure and upgrade the distributor....any suggestions?

 

gysgtbigdaddy

the Loadamatic was early y block engines,

just get a later one.

about your engine, i looked at the link about

whether it was a 312.

you said engine was frozen when you got it.

it may not be the starter, it may me something stuck

inside the engine.

if you dove in and took pan off, you might want to

just pull engine and put it on a stand and check it over.

make sure it's turning free.

good part is, it's a lot simpler than pulling like a 2012 engine.

Happy Thanksgiving!

 

How 'bout this one from Summit? A1 Cardone Remanufactured Distributors 100-302808 - SummitRacing.com

 

sargeant

that's the rignt one.

see if you can get a used one.

call Bob's F100, kill two birds with one stone,

see if they have distributor and know what's up with starter situation.

keep your $140.

what's up with seeing if engine turns freely and

starter works ON THE truck?

have a good one!

 

That looks like it but the price seems high. Check with a local auto parts store. Ideally, you want one with a Motorcraft body because fine tuning will be much easier but you may not have a choice between Motorcraft or Autolite. You'll also need to get a cap and rotor.

How's the starter issue coming? One thing at a time.

 

Whoa, Big Daddy. That's way too much. Quick search brings one up at Auto Zone for $62.99 Cardon Reman

or O'Reilly's Cardon Reman #30-2808

You'll need to get a cap and rotor also. Points and condenser are already loaded.

$10-15 core charge...

 

Well, still no dice I was talking to someone and they made a good point when they told me I may have too long and too thin of wire connecting the starter, solenoid, and ground. So I have the battery within 24 inches of the battery and everything is connected with 4 gauge cable or 14 gauge wire. I re-soldered all the connections also. No the stater is making a loud "spinning" noise. It's like the bindex isn't extending. When I installed the starter I did notice that the toothed "screw" on the shaft was all the way out. Could this have anything to do with it? Should it be screwed all the way to the base of the starter? At least this time the noise was pronounced compared to all the other times.

*Update* Went out today, as an additional troubleshooting step, and rewired the starter/solenoid/battery setup with copper wire. It was thought that maybe the wire wasn't transferring the energy like it should. Still nothing though. Looks like a new starter is in the cards....$300 is a hard lesson just to find out the engine may be in need of a rebuild. I just can't see pulling it and having it rebuilt if I don't know how or if it will run.

 

Ok, FINALLY got the starter working! Now I want to try and start it but need some help on how the coil, relay (4 pronged) and remote starter all get wired together. The instructions that came with the remote starter tell me to hook one end to the "s" terminal on the relay and the other on the battery side of the relay....but I distinctly remember when I purchased the relay being told to not use the "s" terminal. Thanks for any and all guidance!