Hello to all! I'm a first time y block owner and am in the process of getting it running. I purchased a 53 F-100 that came with this block and from what I was told (seemed truthful) was that the block came out of a 57 TBird. Anyway, it was locked up and I was unable to turn the crank. So just last week I lubed the cylinders and poured trans fluid down the intake (carb is off trying to get rebuilt). So I'm looking for everyone's suggestions as to getting the engine to run. I'm thinking: drain fluids, drop pan, carb rebuild, replace water pump, new plugs/wires/distributor tuneup, do oil change and fill up radiator. Then try to start it

Also, what oil is best for this engine and what is the best 4 barrel carb to bolt on (no modifications)...or should I stick with a 2 barrel? I had a 2 barrel Autolite C9AF-J installed but I'm being told that didn't originally come on this engine. Having the duel carb setup would be sweet but I need to keep the cost at a minimum...thanks!!

 

Pull the valve covers and rocker assemblies to make sure the rocker arms turn freely, lube the shafts and that all of the valves return to the closed position. It will be wise to remove the plugs from the rocker shafts to clean the inside of the shafts. Make sure all pushrods are present and straight. If one or two is missing, don't worry about it. It's probably in the valley and won't hurt a thing. Just be sure to replace it. If you drop a pushrod into the valley, it usually won't fall far enough to loose it immediately and a tool can be made out of a coat hanger to retrieve it.
Once it is free, Pull the distributor and turn the oil pump with a drill to pre lube the engine. You may even turn the engine by hand while another person turns the oil pump with the drill. Reinstall the distributor and ensure that it is positioned correctly to start. Make sure it will provide a spark.
Once it is running, make sure oil is getting to the top end. If you cleaned and lubed the rockers like I suggested, it won't be a huge deal to run it for a while if there is no oil. I used to drive mine daily, manually oiling the rockers once a week. When I think about it, I don't know how that worked, but it did.

All Y Blocks seem to be 312s from a Tbird when they are being sold. With the later 2v carb, yours is most likely a '58 or newer 292. Some passenger cars had Thunderbird or Thunderbird Special decals on the valve covers and I think this is where much of the confusion comes from. Those are, in fact, passenger car engines not Tbird engines. Another issue is valve covers can be swapped and decals applied very easily. If you have one of these, it's just as good because it's the same stuff where it really counts.
If it is a real Tbird engine with a 2v intake installed, then I suggest you sell the remaining Tbird specific parts. It'll give you a nice chunk of change to work with for repairs or modifications unless you want to hang onto them for bragging rights.
It's quite easy to spot a Tbird motor. The hose outlet of the thermostat housing will point straight ahead. There will be a 1" spacer between the water pump and block. The distributor has a tach drive. The generator will be directly in front of the block on the passenger side.
When you pull the pan, look for ECZ on the main caps. That means 312.
You can id the heads, block and other stuff here:
Y

 

Howdy,


Most of us like Shell Rotella 15W-40 or just about any 15W-40 type oil.

When you "turn" the oil pump with a drill extension and 1/4" deep socket, make sure you turn it "backwards"......I.E. counter-clockwise (lefty-loosey) etc......

I can make 50psi with a hand crank on mine.....

 

Thanks for the guidance! What about carbs? I've done some reading within this forum and I really could find a solid answer as to what carb runs best...would a 500 cfm edelbrock work?
I will drop the pan this weekend to verify what block I have, but here it is as it sits:

 

Yep. Not a Tbird motor. Passenger car oil pan, thermostat housing, later valve covers. My bet is on a 292, '58 or newer.

In regard to the carb, keep it under 500cfm for a stock to mild engine. As far as the best, pick your favorite brand. We all have different opinions based on our unique experience. I'd say Holley but if you don't like Holley, pick your favorite.
I doubt it will go on with no modifications since you have a 2 barrel manifold and carb but it should be pretty straight forward. Are you planning to swap the intake or use an adapter?
The same goes with oil. Any oil can be used. You need to make sure it has adequate protection for flat tappet cams. Most oil 40 or higher has adequate protection, 10w40, 15w40, 20w50, etc. The thinner stuff, 10w30, 5w20, 5w30, etc do not usually have the necessary protection but can technically be used if the protection is added but I'd use thicker stuff on an older, potentially worn engine. Products like ZDDPlus and STP oil treatment have the stuff needed. When in doubt, check the TSD of the oil you would like to use. This is available on most oil manufacturer's websites. This will tell you if there is enough or if you will need to add it.

 

Oh well...what can I do. I also found out that the carburetor # crosses to a 1969 LTD with a 351 Windsor. So I will have to look into what block this actually is. I've also never seen or worked with heads with this setup. Hope I don't screw things up!



Is this a 6 volt setup? What is the easiest way to tell?

 

How do you mean? Shaft mounted rocker arms? Or are you used to newer stuff with overhead cams?
It's very simple.
It did bring another thought to mind. The Y-Block has solid lifters. When you get it free, make sure the valves are adjusted for the proper clearance. One reason an engine seizes is because it sits. A reason it sits is because it would not run. A reason it would not run could be that the valves were adjusted as if hydraulic lifters were installed. Get it free and then we can get into more detail here.

I can't help with the 6 or 12v. Generators look the same to me. Maybe someone else here can help.
A '53 would be 6v from the factory. You can see if any 12v bulbs are installed and perhaps a voltage reducer for any of the gauges. If the generator is from the same era as the engine appears to be, it is 12v.

How many vacuum lines go to the distributor? Can you get a better shot of the distributor?

 

One more piece of info. The distributor pictured is a Loadomatic. Meaning the engine likely is 1956 or older. It would have been a dog with the C9 carb, because the dist. requires a special vacuum signal not supplied with the later carb. Not to mention the carb is way too big in an Autolite to run well on the truck. I think you have some work ahead. Dont go out and buy a new carburetor before seeing if the engine will run. The LTD/Torino carb for 351 should do adequately to get the engine fired. Idle adjustment probably wont be possible though.

I also see a double grooved damper pulley with thin inner belt and extra wide outer belt grooves; i.e. early engine.

 

That's what I was thinking. There's no telling what he has at this point.

gysgtbigdaddy,
When you do get it running, get a distributor for a '57 or newer model. The one you have will not work with the new carburetors and that includes the carb for the 351 which you have.

 

I hurried in home so I could get the pan off and take some pics:












I bounced the crank "ECZ" and it showed 312 on that link ya'll provided...couldn't quite match the heads though. Also, need to take the exhaust off to see the block #. Now I really don't know what I have
PS I did see "ECZ" on the block but it was partly covered by the exhaust. I was unable to get a decent picture of it.

 

I was just looking at your pictures before you posted here. Is that ECZ on the main caps? If so it's a 312". Also on the rockers, is that ECG 6564. I'd say you have the high lift rockers also.

On the head where the water passage from the intake enters the front of the head. Look underneath. See if it sez ECZ-G or something so we can help determine which heads you have.

Sure seems to be a mismatch of parts, some good, some not so good.

 

Wow. It looks like you actually have a 312. And high ratio rockers. You're off to a good start already!

 

Double Wow! You should make certain to buy a lottery ticket this week. I would have given it a 1 in 10 chance of being 312. Congratulations!

 

That's what it shows for sure...so what explains the other signs (oil pan, thermostat housing, later valve covers, hose outlet, dist tach drive, etc) that shows it isn't a 312? Could it be a 312 out of some other vehicle? And this is sort of strange to ask now, but is the 312 special compared to the other Y Blocks? More desirable? Should I be stoked or plan on going broke?

 

I'd guess it's a 312" that came out of a '57 car, with the pan, dip stick location, thermostat housing, ect. The distributor doesn't belong tho.