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Can anyone tell me the correct voltage of coil or suggest a replacement ignition system for my 1982 f350 its got a 351w fitted just keeps losing power to the plugs and the motor cuts out
If you keep losing power to the plugs and it keeps cutting out, it's probably the pickup module in the distributor like Ctubutis is suggesting. Or, it could be the ignition module if it won't fire once it's hot.
The coil gets 12 volts with the key in the CRANK position and ~7.5 volts via a ballast resistor when in the RUN position.
hotwire the coil. if you can run a wire from the battery, and not cut out, that means your module is shot. I have a loose wire for just this problem. don't run that way all the time, but it'll get you home when the module won't
i would suggest you keep up on the system by maintaining it as ford produced it, not by adding a mismatched assortment of performance parts. the MSD might be good, but most of us find that the originals last 20+ years, and you can't beat that reliability.
Cheapest method is to check all the wires associated with the ignition. There are some over on the fender by the ignition module, there are three that go to the distributor, and there are two that go to the coil. The wires get brittle over time and I've had them break off where they go into the factory connectors. I've had a loose wire at the coil cause a poor idle, though I don't recall noticing a loss of power at speed, at least not that I could tell.
Also check the module on the fender. Usually local auto parts stores will test them. The original Ford units are the best since they have features that the aftermarket brands likely won't (such as retarding the timing at startup for easier starting). But I ran an Autozone house brand box for a couple years with zero problems.
As far as complete replacements, I personally run an MSD 6A ignition box with the factory distributor and coil and I am very satisfied, but it's a little more expensive to get the MSD than a factory replacement. Complete MSD systems (distributor and box) aren't cheap by any means.
check all connections at the distributor and the eec unit.the plastic tends to crack and moisture can cause that,but sounds like a coil to me if it runs cold but dies warm
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