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Alright the truck is an old dumper 78' with a transplanted 390 because the original blew. Somebody before me wired up this duraspark 2 system when they put the motor in, i was told that at first he hooked up the coil backwards and it got very VERY hot.
So i replaced the coil, and control module AND re-wired EVERYTHING with a temporary harness. I supplied power from the battery to the BAT side of the coil and straight to the control module, and everything else following the wiring diagram for a duraspark 2 application exactly.
I've done this once before on a straight 6 in my 84" f150 and had no issue's so i'm familiar with this setup.
Problem is i'm getting no spark at all, I think i'm getting 12v from the ground, purple, and orange wires coming out of the control module. Why is this happening?
Prior to me working on it no spark was the problem. I've ran through this whole system with no prevail. The only thing i haven't done is pulsed the coil because i forgot how.
Take the module to the store and have them test it. You need a resistance inline with the coil +. Hooking the coil + straight to the battery will cause the coil to run hot, and can overheat and ruin the module. You can search out the original coil wire in the truck, both the duraspark and the points system both used a resistance wire in this wire. If you want to keep what you have, go to the store and buy one of those large white resistors made for a chrysler product. They are close enough to work.
Yeah i'm aware i need resistance in the hot line, the original harness has a resistor that i plan to use. Like i said right now i have everything wired up temprarily to rule out problems with wiring inside the truck and just to get the motor to fire, then it gets wired up permanently.
Yesterday i did pulse the coil and it isn't pulsing. could the pickup in the dist be bad? I took the module back to the store and swapped it for a new one. I'm also adding a ground to rule out a bad ground in the dist.
I don't know what you mean by "pulsing the coil" but I do know if you have power on the + of the coil, and you put a testlight on the neg of the coil(Hook the other end of the testlight to a good ground) and crank the engine, the testlight will blink, signifying the coil is being turned on and off to make spark.
The module grounds and ungrounds the neg of the coil to make it spark, and the pickup in the dist tells the module when to turn the coil on and off, and how fast to turn the coil on and off.
I believe there is some resistance readings you can take on the dist pickup wires to see if it's good. You might find these tests on Autozone's site in the vehicle repair section.
P.S. Also crank it over with the dist cap off and make sure the dist is turning. It won't be the first time the oil pump has locked up, and sheared the teeth or the pin off the dist gear.
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