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I noticed after the coolent flush last week end the degus was past full the last few days with the defrost on same side as heater core big puddle not coolent mind ya, degus levelwas the same with puck around the cap,may be the gold coolelent / ingreadent involved to look white/pink? look into the chem test result to see whats in the water/ coolent ? distilleled water not suposed to have the sodium content but look at the bottles.and city water has large amounts of Bacteria fighteing agents( clorine /? for drinking Thats why dist water yull get white / just rinse off look at level .check cap for the O-ring and good seal.
IIRC you can also puke from boiling the coolant in the EGR cooler due to high EGTs.
Chris - this is a real interesting point, one that has had a lot of discussion. No doubt you can get "EGR cooler boiling" (and I think that minor episodes of this cause the degas level fluctuations people see), but I personally do not believe a healthy truck will puke from EGR cooler boiling, just because it is run hard. I believe it takes some other failure (like low coolant flows or EGTs well above the adviseable point) to cause puking. Others may (and do based on discussions in other forums) feel differently though.
What do you consider beyond advisable? I think any egr boiling would not be as much puking as a leaking head gasket. Probably just residue on the bottle around the cap if that makes sense. Obviously a stock truck is going to have a hard time getting that hot.
I think that the system should be able to handle EGTs up to at least 1350*F (and for the record - no, I don't recommed running there for long periods of time!).
Interesting! Though I'm sure that's not what happened to me in this case since I was parked in high idle with IAT temps of about 30 when it happened! I'm guessing it was just over full. What's the best way to monitor EGT? One of these days I need to get more gauges set up in this truck to monitor the stuff that it can't tell me itself...
I think that the system should be able to handle EGTs up to at least 1350*F (and for the record - no, I don't recommed running there for long periods of time!).
These are just my opnions though.
I think it certainly is conceivable that it could puke a little/boil the coolant with some of the hot tunes that are out there with EGTs touching 1500*
ECT was about 176 and EOT was about 184 when it happened the first time, and ECT built to about 186 with an EOT of about 192 today (low ECT is why I'm replacing the t-stat this week).
Looks like you do need a thermostat, ECT should be around 190F. Then if you fill to the Min Level and put a new cap on the expansion tank you should have covered the low cost fixes.
Looks like you do need a thermostat, ECT should be around 190F. Then if you fill to the Min Level and put a new cap on the expansion tank you should have covered the low cost fixes.
Don't skimp! Buy the Motorcraft Thermostat. I bought 2 replacements from NAPA and they did not last a year (one of them 2 months) before the ECT temps sagged below 175. I compared the Motorcraft and NAPA thermostats and there were subtle differences between the main spring and the smaller spring. I am not an expert on Thermostats but I know a little song called "One of these things is not like the other, one of these things just don't belong..."
Since then my Coolant Temp has been right on the mark. Maybe luck, maybe some thing else...but the Motorcraft thermostat fixed my cool temp issue.
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