trans problems?
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Senior User
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trans problems?
i have an '85 e350 van with 240K miles on it. between first and second the rpm's can get pretty high unless i let off the gas and punch it at the right moment (in which case it seems to shift just fine). the po said it has always been like this and a mechanic told me it is normal with these trucks.
but now its started to have a slight problem between 2nd and 3rd as well. if i'm crusing at around 30 or 35 mph it will shift up and then quickly downshift in a sort of jolting way and run at high rpms for a second before going back to 3rd. if i just punch it from 30 on up to 40+ mph very quickly it doesn't happen as much. is this really normal or is there something i should check out?
how many miles should i expect out of this transmission anyways?
thanks for all your help!
but now its started to have a slight problem between 2nd and 3rd as well. if i'm crusing at around 30 or 35 mph it will shift up and then quickly downshift in a sort of jolting way and run at high rpms for a second before going back to 3rd. if i just punch it from 30 on up to 40+ mph very quickly it doesn't happen as much. is this really normal or is there something i should check out?
how many miles should i expect out of this transmission anyways?
thanks for all your help!
Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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the one in my 87 also wants to shift late. it'll scream to over 25mph before dropping into 2nd if i let it. it'll take 3rd by itself at 45, or i can force it in as low as about 41.
are you aware that the c6 is set up such that when the shifter is in 2nd, the transmission WILL be in 2nd, and when you move it back to drive it'll shift if you're at a speed that its able to.
as a result of this, many of us take off in drive, pull the shifter to 2nd when its time for that shift, then return the shifter to drive when we're ready for 3rd gear. this feature is also useful when you're going slow (15 or whatever) in 2nd and want the power of 1st, just slide the shifter from 2nd to drive and it'll drop into 1st if you're moving slow enough to allow it.
that issue of hunting between 2nd and 3rd sounds like it should be looked into. to start with, check the level and condition of your fluid. if that doesn't help anything, check the kickdown rod and the vacuum system.
until you get it right, i would suggest holding it in 2nd until you're doing 40+ where you said it doesn't happen as much
are you aware that the c6 is set up such that when the shifter is in 2nd, the transmission WILL be in 2nd, and when you move it back to drive it'll shift if you're at a speed that its able to.
as a result of this, many of us take off in drive, pull the shifter to 2nd when its time for that shift, then return the shifter to drive when we're ready for 3rd gear. this feature is also useful when you're going slow (15 or whatever) in 2nd and want the power of 1st, just slide the shifter from 2nd to drive and it'll drop into 1st if you're moving slow enough to allow it.
that issue of hunting between 2nd and 3rd sounds like it should be looked into. to start with, check the level and condition of your fluid. if that doesn't help anything, check the kickdown rod and the vacuum system.
until you get it right, i would suggest holding it in 2nd until you're doing 40+ where you said it doesn't happen as much
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Pull the rubber vacuum pipe off of the modulator at the trans and look for any signs of fluid, if any found, replace the modulator.
If that is good then check that vacuum connections at the injector pump are in cood condition and pipe to trans. May also have to put a vacuum gauge on to confirn around 16in vacuum at trans at idle.
If that is good then check that vacuum connections at the injector pump are in cood condition and pipe to trans. May also have to put a vacuum gauge on to confirn around 16in vacuum at trans at idle.
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great. i will look into both those things. out of curiousity, what is the expected life-time of these transmissions? i am planning on putting some time/moeny into converting it to wvo and then going on a long road trip this winter and i'm just wondering at what point i might want to start mentally preparing for putting a new transmission in...
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I'd just have it rebuilt now if your going on a long trip, a C6 is one of the cheapest and easiest trans to rebuild. no $3000 bill for that thing. The shop i go to for trans work charges like $300 to rebuild a C6. but $1400 for an E4OD.....
For $500 you build that thing damn strong and it'll never die again(if kept cool).
For $500 you build that thing damn strong and it'll never die again(if kept cool).
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2005
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Transmission Parts - Ford - C6 - Monster Rebuild Kits - Monster Transmission and Performance If you ever need to rebuild it get a kit like this.
However, as stated, if kept cool and fluid change (including torque fluid) every 30,000mls the C6 should last a long, long time.
Also one of the easiest to rebuild with an ATSG manual to guide you.
However, as stated, if kept cool and fluid change (including torque fluid) every 30,000mls the C6 should last a long, long time.
Also one of the easiest to rebuild with an ATSG manual to guide you.
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just to update this old post, i ended up getting a new modulator put in and its incredibly better. still a little clunky between 1st and 2nd but considerably better!
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Postmaster
Joined: Feb 2011
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Looking back on this thread, my response above in post #2 was based on having a completely dead VRV. I was getting no vacuum to the modulator, so I made it work as described. Now with a working VRV, it still shifts into 2nd a little bit high, but works much better.
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