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Just traded in my '03 for an '06... Any major differences between the years? I know about the EGR cooler differences. Planning on putting a coolant filter in my system next month and then doing a full flush. Deltas still around 8, so I should be okay, especially if I put the filter in BEFORE the flush, since I've ready VC-9 can bring up enough junk to plug the coolers...
I've also got a blue spring I bought for my '03 and never installed, so I'll be putting that in the new truck sometime this week. Also be doing the hi idle mod.
What else do I need to watch for in the '06 that I wouldn't have done with the '03?
Where do I begin? Your new to you '06 sounds different driving on the highway (which I'm sure you noticed already). The ICP sensor is different, not only in its location but also the part number itself. The turbo is different. The intake manifold is different (no rear crossover on the '06). The EGR valve is a different part number between '03/'04 versus '05/'10. The EGR cooler is different (which you knew already). The entire high pressure oil system is completely different from the high pressure oil pump, to branch tube, standpipes, high pressure oil rails, injectors, IPR valve and even the high pressure oil pump cover. The water pump and engine front cover is different. The oil filter/fuel filter housing is different, as are the supply and return lines, but you'll still be able to use your blue spring kit which is the same for all model years. The FICM mount bracket is different. The EBP sensor and tube is different. The cylinder heads are different. There, that should cover most of the differences between the two model years of engines.
Lower d-rings on the dummy rail plugs deterioration as well as STC blowouts are the thing to watch out for on '06s, as well as your usual ECT/EOT differential and FICM voltages. Speaking of which, you should have it reflashed to the latest PCM calibration level if it hasn't been done already. The latest flash on these will monitor the vitals such as turbo overboost, excessively low FICM_M voltage or excessive ECT/EOT differential and will set yellow wrench light codes and de-rate engine power output accordingly to protect the engine from further damage.
Store code and wrench warning lamp illuminated when PCM vehicle power (VPWR) parameter identifier (PIDS) is below 10.25V for 60 seconds or below 9V for 4 seconds. TSB 09-24-3
Sweet! I assume any dealer can flash it? Out of curiosity, if my betteries are dead, will FICM volts run in the low 40s instead of 48 for 30 minutes plus? One of the trucks I drove had to be jumped... FICM stayed down around 38-40 for my entire 30 min test drive and dealer just laughed it off saying it was due to the batteries having been dead... I didn't believe him, so didn't buy the truck. (Had other problems too.)
Sweet! I assume any dealer can flash it? Out of curiosity, if my betteries are dead, will FICM volts run in the low 40s instead of 48 for 30 minutes plus? One of the trucks I drove had to be jumped... FICM stayed down around 38-40 for my entire 30 min test drive and dealer just laughed it off saying it was due to the batteries having been dead... I didn't believe him, so didn't buy the truck. (Had other problems too.)
No, the FICM voltage should NEVER drop below 45. AFA the newest flash I'm totally against it, but that's just me. I know the tuners prefer the "4" instead of "9". If you have a scangauge II then you can monitor the temps instead of letting the PCM do it, but again that's just a personal opinion.
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