This is regarding my 97 Ford Explorer V8

I posted this thread in the Explorer forum but I was hoping some of you wiring gurus might be able to help. I imagine most newer Fords' locks are wired the same so hopefully someone might have some tips.

Here's the info in the Explorer forum:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...hreadid=119447

Quick summary: The switch is good. Wire coming into the lock side of the switch is powered, wire coming into the unlock side is not. Where might my problem be? (or am I testing this wrong).

Thanks all.

 

Wow, what a headline !


Have you run continuity tests yet?

They are more accurate for testing switches.

 

I tested continuity through the switch but not in the wires. There is a nice sound deadener sheet glued to the door under the door panel and I don't want to rip it off unless I have to.

Is that my next step? Just pull that off so I can trace that wire to the actuator (or wherever it goes next)?

 

Ken, there should be a driver's door lock relay in the back driver's side area that the jack is located in. It is plugged into a block that holds three relays. The relay might be sticking and causing the trouble......?

 

Thanks for the info on the relays. I'll crawl back there and check it out. How do I know which relay is which? What's the best way to test them?

Thanks again.

 

Ken, the manual dosen't say which relay is for the driver's side. But.......they are all the same, so you might be able to remove one and switch it with another. That way you could test to find the bad one.

This info comes from a 2000 model year manual; I assume it's the same for your year.

 

Thanks again. I should be able to try that after this weekend. I'll post what I find.

 

This is the most recent of long list of problems I've been having with this truck.

It won't let me out! I've got to press the lock/unlock button several times in order to have it open the driver's side lock. All the others are popping up and down without problems.

There is no noticeable pattern, and it's really frustrating.

I'm handy, but no electrical genius; and, I can't afford another trip to a dealer.

Any help (including pictures) would be absolutely wonderful.

Thanks in advance!

 

Following along with this thread should help you out.

The answers don't always come in "fast & furious like".

 

320, maybe this will give some insight to your problem:

As mentioned above, there are 3 relays plugged into a relay block in the forward section of the jack compartment. One is a door lock relay (for all doors). One is a door unlock relay (for all doors EXCEPT driver's side). The third is the driver's unlock relay.

I suspect you have a faulty "driver's door unlock" relay. This seems to be a common problem; maybe because this relay gets worked more than the others do.....?

Sorry I don't know which of the three relays is the driver's door unlock, but I guarantee one of them is.....

 

Thanks for the info...

I've got a Chilton guide...will that help show me specifically where these relays are and how to access them?

I appreciate the response.
Marc

 

Marc: It might, I don't have a Chilton's. It should at least show a wiring diagram.

On mine, the relay block is at the top of the jack storage opening, toward the front. It is a black plastic rectangle, maybe 5"x2", and is bolted on the inner panel. There is a plastic cover that comes off to expose the relays. You can't miss it. The relays simply pull out from the top.

My manual says there are 3 relays in the block, but I have 4 in mine. I haven't figured out what the 4th one does; maybe a separate unlock for the hatch....?

 

OK, I did some further checking, and here's something that might help:

The wiring comes in from the bottom of the relay box, so it's easy to see the wire colors. My wiring diagram shows two wires that go to the driver's unlock relay that have colors unique to it alone. The colors are Red/Orange stripe, and Light Green. If you trace these wires up to the relays, they should go directly to the driver's unlock relay.

Again, this assumes that Ford didn't change the wire colors on different model years.......

 

I did some checking too, and I think I found where the relays are - at least where the Chilton's manual says they are. I'll need to take a look this weekend.

I did find the wiring diagrams, and those should help as you suggested.

I also wanted to post that I've followed my Ford manual's instructions for disabling the autolock feature, and it will not work. I've got the keyless entry keypad, so I've followed the instructions for that method as well as the instructions for using the lock/unlock button on the inside of the door.

I haven't ruled out operator error yet, but I'm close. I've tried about 6 six times so far, so we shall see.

Thanks for your posts, and I'll post an update once I've taken a look for the relays.

Marc

 

After finding the relays, 2 square and 2 rectangular, and determining which was for the driver's door, I purchased a new relay from the dealer, just as their parts dept. was closing. I installed it in the parking lot, and as luck would have it, it made no difference.

The "intermittent" problem has now turned into a permanent problem, and I've been crawling in and out through the passenger side throughout the weekend.

The dealer was open today, and I planned on buying and installing a new actuator. After talking with the parts folk I decided to have them put it in. Did that solve the problem? Nope.

They determined the problem is the handle linkage, but did they have that part in stock? Nope.

So, I paid for 90 minutes of labor and have to go back for another 30-45 minutes once the part comes in on Friday. Hopefully it will work then. With my luck, the bill will have to reach at least $500 before it'll work. (And no, I don't think I'm getting ripped off by the dealer - except for their insane labor rate.)

I'll keep you updated. Good luck to Ken2600...if you need a relay....(they wouldn't take back the one I purchased)