The power door lock switch on the driver's door of my 97 has stopped unlocking the doors. It still locks them fine. The passenger side switch locks and unlocks all doors fine so that rules out actuators. It must be a switch or wiring.

I pulled the switch out tonight and it's got 7 pins on the bottom. Does anyone have a wiring diagram they can point me to, or tell me which pin is which so I can test it?

If not, I'll just go buy a new switch, but if it would happen to be a wiring problem, I'd hate to buy the switch for nothing.

Thanks!

 

Update:

I got looking at the wires and figured out what the extra pins are. (2 are nothing, 2 are for the light, 3 are the switch). I tested the switch and it is fine in both the "lock" and "unlock" position.

I got my multi-meter out and tested the wires. The ground wire is good, the power coming in to the "lock" side is 12 volts, however (I assume the "unlock" should have power too) the "unlock" side (pink wire with green stripe) is not powered. I guess that means it's a wiring issue and not in the switch. Any idea where I should start looking?

Thanks.

 

I've fixed a few of these with broken wires between the door and the body, inside the flex thingy (real technical term).
I had to pull the kick panel out inside the vehicle and unplug the connectors to make enough room to work.

 

Thanks Dave. I'll check in there.

 

i have the same problem i worked on it all day today i have no broke wires can someone help pls

 

I'm also having some goofy things happening with my power locks. I don't have keyless entry, so I have to use a key to unlock the vehicle. Once every few days, the locks will automatically re-lock as soon as I finish turning the key. It will do this over and over, so the vehicle basically stays locked at all times.

Some times my key won't even turn the cylinder (either door). When this happens, I just pull on the passenger door handle and it unlocks itself (some security).

I need to trace down my wiring (or call an exorcist). Could a bad power lock module also be to blame???

 

When you test this switch you should see 12volts on the Pink/Yellow when you push the switch to the lock position. When you push the switch to the unlock position you should see 12volts on the Pink/Green unlock wire. If you do not see 12volts on the pink/green wire when you press the switch to unlock your problem is the switch. You can confirm this by jumping the 12volts at the switch to the Pink/green wire, the doors should unlock. Just tap the 12volts to the wire, dont hold it there.

 

Ford uses 3 different door locking systems, Negative switch, positive switch and reverse polarity. Test the switch for its type.

Negative- This is typically a 3 wire switch (Excluding Illumination)
the center pin of the switch is ground, when the lock or unlock is pressed the switch with supply ground to the onboard relay to lock or unlock the door. This system is found in vehicles with factory keyless entry.

Positive- This is typically a 3 wire switch (Excluding Illumination)
the center pin of the switch is 12volts, when the lock or unlock is pressed the switch with supply 12volts to the onboard relay to lock or unlock the door. This system is found in both vehicles with and without factory keyless entry.

Reverse- In this system there are no relays in the vehicle. The door lock switch will control the door lock actuators. This switch is typical a 5 wire switch, and the wire are of a much bigger gauge. When the lock button is pressed the switch will supply power to the lock side of the actuator and at the same time ground the other actuator wire. this will reverse when the switch is pressed to unlock.

 

This sounds like a bad switch or a wiring short. Try unplugging the door lock switches and see if the door locks will stay unlocked with the key. If they do, I would think you have a bad switch. plug the switches back in to see wich one is the problem. If the keep on returning to the lock position you must have a short.