2001 7.3L
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2001 7.3L
I am having a problem with my 2001 7.3l and i was hoping someone can point me in the right direction. The truck sputters at around 2200 rpm. I have done some upgrades including 4" exhuast turbo back, cold air intake and fuel tank suction upgrade. this sputtering problem did not seem to come with any of these mods. I have scanned it with a snap on solis pro scanner and no codes appear. I have just recently replaced the valve cover gaskets with the wire herness and replaced the injector seals in a desperate attemt to repair the problem. It did not repair it however did make it somewhat better. Anyone have any ideas i would greatly appreciate some help.
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From: Here in No. Calif
might want to post it here for specific eyeballs
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
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I thought that it was a lack of fuel because that does make sense so of course the first thing i did was change the filter and then pulled the tank and did the suction strainer delete kit. This kit removes the strainer in the tank and puts an aux filter in the frame rail. I was also thinking that with the 4" exhaust and cold air intake is it possible it is now getting to much air. So to remidy that i put i installed a superchip vivid. This also has not repaired the studdering problem. When you are driving the truck it feels like for a split second someone has shut the key off then everything comes back to life.
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I'm not a pro at all but I have learned a few things, watched videos and what not and every time someone posts about the truck acting like someone shuts the key off (as in it loses power completely for a fraction of a second) I keep coming back to the crankshaft position sensor and this video.
Camshaft Position Sensor 7.3 powerstroke Location and Install - YouTube
I hope I have helped. If not this post will self destruct in 5...4...3....2...
Camshaft Position Sensor 7.3 powerstroke Location and Install - YouTube
I hope I have helped. If not this post will self destruct in 5...4...3....2...
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From: Palatka, FL
Power loss at that high rpm leads me to the up pipe to collector donut gaskets leaking and not allowing your turbo to spin up to a high enough rpm to supply enough pressurized air to the intake plenums. Signifigantly reduced boost pressure equals reduced power. Look at your up pipes very closely for black soot. Ensure the pipes have cooled down. You may need an inspection mirror. Look from under the vehicle and wipe that spot with a rag. Black stuff on rag equals leaking up pipes.Grab a up pipe and shake it and see if it bangs around a little against the collector to up pipe connection. It may be time for bellowed up pipes. Do you have a boost gauge? Have you been losing power for some time? Has it been gradual or all of a sudden? Can you remember? I would look at those up pipes very closely at the point where it connects with the collector.
This cost you nothing to look. New bellowed up pipes are a little over 400 if you install them.
This cost you nothing to look. New bellowed up pipes are a little over 400 if you install them.
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I live in Medicine Hat, AB. My truck has got just shy of 440k on it. you know a leek in the intake would make sense i will have to check that out thanks. I have looked around a bit for that maybe just not close enough.
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From: Palatka, FL
Intake filter> turbo compressor > Hot intercooler pipe > Intercooler > Cold intercooler pipe > Split to Inlet plenums > into each of the cylinders.
Check all of the above boots for leaks.
The above listed items have nothing to do with the up pipe to collector EXHAUST LEAK.
There is the compressor side of the turbo which is the aluminum side. There is an oring between the compressor halves that could be going bad and it is located here.
#14-060 Turbo Compressor Outlet o-ring - Turbo and Related Items - 1999-2003 Ford 7.3L
If you replace this oring and pull the turbo to do it then you will need the turbo reinstall kit here.
Turbo Re-Install Kit - GTP38
The exhaust side of the Turbine or turbo is what I am saying to check for leaks. Right where the up pipes meet the collector. Look at this page and go to the third picture down to see the collector with the up pipes connected and the turbo removed so you can see a nice picture of the pipes and collector. This is the write up to repair the bad donut gaskets/leaks.
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/upp.php
Check all of the above boots for leaks.
The above listed items have nothing to do with the up pipe to collector EXHAUST LEAK.
There is the compressor side of the turbo which is the aluminum side. There is an oring between the compressor halves that could be going bad and it is located here.
#14-060 Turbo Compressor Outlet o-ring - Turbo and Related Items - 1999-2003 Ford 7.3L
If you replace this oring and pull the turbo to do it then you will need the turbo reinstall kit here.
Turbo Re-Install Kit - GTP38
The exhaust side of the Turbine or turbo is what I am saying to check for leaks. Right where the up pipes meet the collector. Look at this page and go to the third picture down to see the collector with the up pipes connected and the turbo removed so you can see a nice picture of the pipes and collector. This is the write up to repair the bad donut gaskets/leaks.
http://www.guzzle7pt3.com/upp.php
Last edited by 1fixitman; Oct 21, 2012 at 07:43 PM. Reason: bad link.
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