01 193K miles. Has a miss, like starving for fuel. Starts fine and it will clear out at higher RPM, 1800 and up. idles

 

idles fine

 

Jeff, feed this forum. We need more ambition from you to detect and try to resolve a problem. This ain't an elevator where people just come and go at they're floor.

You have a problem, we're here to help. OK, the truck has the miles, what else has been done to or with it and when did your problem surface.

What have you done recently, what do you tow or use it for, Does it smile at you or do you smile at it kinda thing.

Has the tank ever been dropped, how are you doing filter management. It's all key to a successful and less costly answer to your problem.

Think of it this way, you are gleaning the minds of everyone worldwide that drives the same rig you do. If you've ventured thru this forum, and apparently you have to drop one sentence or two, then you are at wits end and want advise.

Let us help you. Spill a story.

Respectfully,

Denny

 

I'm sorry, was kind of vague. Ive had it 2 months and only put about 500 miles on it. I bought from my brother. Its never pulled anything. He has always used royal purple 15-40 since the first oil change. All filters were changed at last oil change 188K. Only thing hes done is cold air kit and 4" turbo back exhaust. I was driving home and it felt like it was idling rough. When I pulled from the stop sign I could feel it like it was starving for fuel. Truck is spotless and well maintained.

 

I know tank has not been dropped

 

And I just filled it up this morning. I went 100 miles after fill up before this started.

 

Remove the fuel line from the fuel pump going to the fuel tank and blow compressed air put the line back on and go for a test drive, if the problem is fixed you have a clogged shower head and/or strainer mixing chamber. Then it's time to do some reading on the harpoon and hutch mod.

 

Fuel tank mods are pretty much mandatory on these trucks. It was literally the first thing suggested to me when I got mine.

 

Great comments above. I personally had my in tank screens plug and was many miles from home.

Easiest was to do what "Z" above recommended is to disconnect the fuel line from the frame rail pump (rear side connection). You'll need a quicky tool that costs a few bucks from any parts store to unlock the fitting from the pump. Remove fuel cap and place a few pounds of air thru the line until you here a bubbling in the tank. Then a few short bursts of 5 pounds or so. Reconnect the line, cycle the key 5-6 times to prime the pump and start it up. It may run rough for a minute. After it smooths out, take it for a spin and see what it feels like. If it indeed runs well, I would read up on the hutch and harpoon mods in this forum. There are also YouTube videos out there, but do your homework. It's a very inexpensive procedure that will pay dividends in the future. More labor than money but well worth it.

Let us know what you find out.

Denny

 

He said it clears up after 1800 RPM. That don't sound like clogged screens. Could just attach hose to fuel bowl drain, open drain valve, cycle key and check for good fuel supply stream to rule out fuel supply issue.

 

Sorry for the delay. Okay, here's what has happened. Blew the line to fuel tank out. NOTHING changed. Took it to the mechanic. He said right away I have an injector stuck open and its dumping fuel into the motor. He ran the scan and all injectors showed good. But he was getting 15 codes coming back. Bottom line, looks like the PCM is going bad. Hes going to replace PCM Monday and have it programmed

 

Staying tuned. GL

Denny

 

I'm thinking that I never heard of one sticking open and dumping fuel into the engine and that suggestion makes me leary of that mechanic. Is he going to buy that PCM if it's not the problem?

 

He called me and asked me if the truck had ever had a programmer in it. And it had. My brother was out of town and my sister in law was driving it, truck was only 2 years old, something happened and she took it to the dealer for under warranty. They removed the program and installed the factory program. Since the program was gone he'd of had to buy another programmer to reinstall and never did. Mechanic told me that their scanner will disable each injector one at a time. But when they did that each injector worked properly and the scanner was showing 15 different codes. He told me to take it to the dealership, they have better equipment to trace the issue. I called two dealerships and told them what was going on and they told me all they could do was install a new PCM and program it to the VIN# then see what it does. I said okay, about how much are we talking about? 1500.00 Screw that. I didn't tell him how much, just asked if he could install a PCM he told me he could but thought ford would have better abilities to diagnose the one I have. Bottom line PCM is 400.00, program is 150 and 90.00 for labor, there is not labor charge as of now because he has not been able to pinpoint for fix the problem. And he said he has 3 days after he receives the computer to install and verify the problem. If its not the computer the supplier charges 50.00 and can be returned

 

Are you getting any smoke from the exhaust? White (raw / unburned fuel) or blue (oil)?I would think one injector "sticking open" would dump a lot of smoke. I also wonder, if that cylinder fired, what those combustion gases and pressures would do to that "open" injector.

"Cold air kit". What kind of air filter do you have on it? Those K&N type filters don't work well enough for our trucks. Pull the intake tube leading to the turbo and check the turbo wheel for damage, and how well it spins. If you're not getting boost, it'll be anemic.

I wouldn't take it to a dealer. They will just build shop time on it and even then will give you a list of "possible" expensive things they can replace, with no guarantee of fixing anything. Ask me how I know.