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"Fogging" an IDI?

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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 08:39 PM
  #1  
IDIDieselJohn's Avatar
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"Fogging" an IDI?

So very soon my 2 IDI's will be stored for winter, the motorhome always is, but isn't setup yet, still needs to be moved, and my van will end up in storage once salt comes out.




Usually I go out every month, and fire it up and let it run for an hour, idle, and keep up revs around 2k RPM for a few min, but nothing more. Temp never really gets to operating temp.


Witch would be better for the engine, and the fuel system? Fire it up once a month like I have been doing for pasted years, or Fog it and let it sit for 5-6 months?


And if "fogging" it is better, what do I need to do to Fog an IDI?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 10:36 PM
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What's "fogging"?
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:03 PM
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You cant fog a diesel and all starting them up every once and a while is getting moisture into your oil. Frankly the best thing you can do for them in storage is put them on a trickle charger and let them sit (many opnions on long term fuel storage so I wont touch that). Frankly if its just over the winter I personally wouldnt even bother with the charger just disconnect the batteries then come spring re-hook them and your good to go (same thing my I do for my racecar every year and thats carbed...)
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:17 PM
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I'm gonna say don't start them too. I do suggest a battery maintainer over a trickle charger as those can and will overcharge the battery. Maintainers are intelligent and charge at whatever level is needed, and then park the batteries.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:42 PM
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Yep, park it and let it sit. If you start it make sure it gets fully up to temp otherwise it does induce alot of moisture in the oil, i learned this the hard way in wyoming. Best thing you could do is dump some heat or similar into the fuel to keep water out and make sure the tank is topped off, to prevent condensation. When you pull it out of storage it would be best to change the oil before starting as the hot / cold produces condensation, especially freezing.

Im curious what fogging is too..?
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 01:13 PM
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Officially there are two ways to Fog a gasoline engine. Not sure about the official rules for a diesel.

1. start it and spray fogging oil into the intake until the engine stalls and you're done.

2. remove the spark plugs and spray into each cylinder then turn it over by hand several times to get the oil all the way up and down the combustion chamber. Then put the plugs back in and you're done.


For diesel, I'd avoid the first method because of the risk to hydrolock the engine. Method two would at the very least require turning the engine over by hand before the spring startup. Again to prevent hydrolocking. THis is the method I've always used to winterize our 1989 evenrude V4 outboard (except I never bother to take the plugs off before restarting).
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 01:58 PM
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You've got 8 "foggers" in there that spray a rust inhibiting liquid into the cylinders whenever the engine is running. Just shut it off and walk away. Full tanks will reduce condensation. A battery tender will keep the batteries happy. Jackstands or blocks will keep the tires round.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 02:04 PM
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If either have AC, i believe there is an addative you can put in the keep the seals and stuff in the compressor happy.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 03:01 PM
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What i've always done is change the oil just before storage, and change it right after storage, all fuel tanks are topped up, and a full bottle of Howes Conditioner goes in the diesel, and is jacked up on blocks to take some weight off the tires.


Guess I'll let it sit now. It's just for 5-6 months anyways.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 03:51 PM
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My engine only has 80000 miles on a 91 so it sat some where along time, By the condition of the truck I can say they did nothing to the engine well it was parked...They only thing I saw well the heads were off is a mark where the rings sat for an extended period of time but it doesnt smoke a lick except at start up like any diesel, If you do put oil down the cylinders it ups the chance of the rings sticking had that with a new 460 that sat for 2 years lucky for me the rings let loose after running for about 10 hours.

When I store an engine I'll tape up all the openings so no moisture can get in or as in my case down south mud dubbers and wad up some rags and shove them in the tail pipes.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by kobaltblue
If you do put oil down the cylinders it ups the chance of the rings sticking
Dont you mean reduces the chance of rings sticking?

As far as oil change pre-storage, i know they say youre supposed too, but i cant figure out a reason why.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 04:12 PM
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I don't think there fogging diesel. Most I see them let sit like no big deal.

Biggest deal for me is batteries no matter how old they are but once it after 2 months of sit it weak or kill them due cold outside.

I was wonder if solar charger would work if he have sun at storage to lite solar.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 04:32 PM
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From: Sweet home Alabama
Originally Posted by hairyboxnoogle
Dont you mean reduces the chance of rings sticking?

As far as oil change pre-storage, i know they say youre supposed too, but i cant figure out a reason why.
Nope it caused it to stick...Oil gets stickey with age like goo when its in small quantities,And it will loosen up any thing on top of the pistons and helps it migrate to the rings...I wont change the oil I'll just wait until before I start it then do it, The crap costs too much to waste these days,Why change it then park it and have to do it again before you start it.
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 04:58 PM
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I am not a fan of letting one sit and heres why: May,I get transferred to texas with my job and leave my 88 f350 7.3idi at my grandfathers place in alabama.August i come back from texas for a week intending to drive the truck i hop in all is well wait for the glowplugs to finish twist the key and it made about a quarter turn and locked so i raised the hood pulled the dipstick and found it full of water next i removed the drainplug and drained about 6 gallons of water before any oil came out removed the air cleaner and found more oily water removed the glow plugs and injectors rotated the engine by hand and more water spun engine until no more water came out reinstalled everything with new seals and new oil& filter fired right up good oil pressure and all ran like crap and still does who knows what all it damaged so now how the water got there was rainwater went between the hood and cowl landing on the aircleaner lid and running down the aircleaner stud into the intake thru open intake valves into the cylinders and into the crankcase so before i parked it it needed a set of tires now it may need another engine or at very least injectors it just isnt worth it and YES it did have a tarp on it
 
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 05:02 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by IDIDieselJohn
What i've always done is change the oil just before storage, and change it right after storage, .

why would you put fresh oil in just to let it sit...then dump it before even running it???
 
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