Need HELP with brakes!
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
Need HELP with brakes!
I posted the problem in the What you did today thread but I'll repeat here:
Was driving down the interstate and the whole truck seemed to be unstable. Kind of darting around on the road. It's usually very stable. AND when I applied the brakes, it would shoot off to the right. I limped slowly to destination (after stopping on side of road and not seeing anything obviously wrong.) Felt the passenger side wheel and it was warm (normal) but the driver's side wheel was HOT!
I took it all apart (driver's side since it was the hot side) and found nothing wrong. Pads looked fine, (about 1/4" left) rotors looked ok, slide pins moved with no trouble. I re-greased the slide pins anyways and put it all together. It seemed to be ok on the test drive and on the next drive taking a load of stuff to our new house BUT today on the way out to the house, it started pulling to the right again with pressure on the brakes.
Took it apart again and thought that about the only thing it could be is the caliper itself. Called Auto Zone to see if they had one. They did. $98 later, I have a remaned caliper back on the driver's side and take it for a spin.
IT STILL PULLS TO THE RIGHT when I apply the brakes.
What else should I be looking for?
Was driving down the interstate and the whole truck seemed to be unstable. Kind of darting around on the road. It's usually very stable. AND when I applied the brakes, it would shoot off to the right. I limped slowly to destination (after stopping on side of road and not seeing anything obviously wrong.) Felt the passenger side wheel and it was warm (normal) but the driver's side wheel was HOT!
I took it all apart (driver's side since it was the hot side) and found nothing wrong. Pads looked fine, (about 1/4" left) rotors looked ok, slide pins moved with no trouble. I re-greased the slide pins anyways and put it all together. It seemed to be ok on the test drive and on the next drive taking a load of stuff to our new house BUT today on the way out to the house, it started pulling to the right again with pressure on the brakes.
Took it apart again and thought that about the only thing it could be is the caliper itself. Called Auto Zone to see if they had one. They did. $98 later, I have a remaned caliper back on the driver's side and take it for a spin.
IT STILL PULLS TO THE RIGHT when I apply the brakes.
What else should I be looking for?
Veteran/Sheepdog
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 6,047
Likes: 110
From: Western AR
After buying my X, mine pulled HARD to the left when I would brake. It ended up being the RIGHT REAR slide pins. They were completely locked up with corrosion/water intrusion. Hope this helps.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 25,479
Likes: 742
From: Isanti, MN
It's also well worth checking out the rear brakes as well. Sounds to me like you could have a collapsed brake line. One telltale sign is that the restriction will take longer for the affected caliper to build pressure so there would be more of a delayed reaction. Meaning that because, at that point, the right side brake was braking harder. If this is your problem the pull will fade and eventually brake straight as you come to a stop.
This could also cause retained pressure in the driver's side caliper which would cause overheating of that particular brake.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
+1.
It's also well worth checking out the rear brakes as well. Sounds to me like you could have a collapsed brake line. One telltale sign is that the restriction will take longer for the affected caliper to build pressure so there would be more of a delayed reaction. Meaning that because, at that point, the right side brake was braking harder. If this is your problem the pull will fade and eventually brake straight as you come to a stop.
This could also cause retained pressure in the driver's side caliper which would cause overheating of that particular brake.
It's also well worth checking out the rear brakes as well. Sounds to me like you could have a collapsed brake line. One telltale sign is that the restriction will take longer for the affected caliper to build pressure so there would be more of a delayed reaction. Meaning that because, at that point, the right side brake was braking harder. If this is your problem the pull will fade and eventually brake straight as you come to a stop.
This could also cause retained pressure in the driver's side caliper which would cause overheating of that particular brake.
Super Moderator
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 25,479
Likes: 742
From: Isanti, MN
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
Update:
Pulled the driver's side back off and looked for play in the hub/bearing. Didn't appear to be any.
Pulled the passenger side off and noticed that the slides weren't quite as smooth sliding as they should've been. The grease was very dry. I replaced the slide pins with the two that came in the box with the new caliper along with some new grease.
Test drive didn't have the severe pull to the right that was there before but it does still seem to pull just a little to the left. Not enough to keep me from getting the U-Haul trailer that I have reserved for tomorrow to finish moving to the new house.
When I have a little more time I will tear into the rear and check/re-grease the slide pins.
Also have to do ball joints/tie rods and I know that those worn out parts aren't helping it to go straight down the road.
Once again though, it was WONDERFUL to have a spot to work that is on CONCRETE, has my tools only a few feet away, and is MINE!!!!
Pulled the driver's side back off and looked for play in the hub/bearing. Didn't appear to be any.
Pulled the passenger side off and noticed that the slides weren't quite as smooth sliding as they should've been. The grease was very dry. I replaced the slide pins with the two that came in the box with the new caliper along with some new grease.
Test drive didn't have the severe pull to the right that was there before but it does still seem to pull just a little to the left. Not enough to keep me from getting the U-Haul trailer that I have reserved for tomorrow to finish moving to the new house.
When I have a little more time I will tear into the rear and check/re-grease the slide pins.
Also have to do ball joints/tie rods and I know that those worn out parts aren't helping it to go straight down the road.
Once again though, it was WONDERFUL to have a spot to work that is on CONCRETE, has my tools only a few feet away, and is MINE!!!!
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2012
Posts: 1,219
Likes: 5
Drain caliper of fluid and use air nozzle to blow that piston out of caliper.
Thread Starter
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
(air compressor is next up on my list of toys to buy for my new shop.)
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Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
Made 3 round trips from the apartment to our new house with a 6x12 U-Haul in tow. Brakes did fine the whole time but I will still re-grease the rear caliper pins when I get a chance.
Hotshot
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 13,484
Likes: 42
From: Stevens Point, WI
Even if a caliper piston retracts with a C-clamp it may still be sticking. The rubber O-rings in the caliper swell up over time and make the pistons sticky. If they get to sticky they cause the pad to wear on the rotor even when the brake is released. Heat up the pad and then not brake when you push on the peddle causing the truck to pull towards the good working side.
Now if the truck is pulling to one side with your foot off the brake that side is dragging either from sticky pins or pistons. Eventually when the pad and rotor overheats it will stop pulling to that side but when you apply the brake the truck will pull to the opposite side.
A good rule of thumb is when you apply the brake, whatever side the truck pulls to is normally the GOOD side.
The pistons should be able to be pushed back into the caliper with your hands for some/most people, it does take quite a bit of strength. With a C-clamp the piston should go back in with very minimal effort.
Make sure the brake fluid is new/flushed out. Any little bit of old contaminated fluid can cause all kinds of weird problems especially if it got water in it somehow.
Was it anti-seize that dried up?
Now if the truck is pulling to one side with your foot off the brake that side is dragging either from sticky pins or pistons. Eventually when the pad and rotor overheats it will stop pulling to that side but when you apply the brake the truck will pull to the opposite side.
A good rule of thumb is when you apply the brake, whatever side the truck pulls to is normally the GOOD side.
The pistons should be able to be pushed back into the caliper with your hands for some/most people, it does take quite a bit of strength. With a C-clamp the piston should go back in with very minimal effort.
Make sure the brake fluid is new/flushed out. Any little bit of old contaminated fluid can cause all kinds of weird problems especially if it got water in it somehow.
Was it anti-seize that dried up?
Thread Starter
|
Cargo Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 2,332
Likes: 2
From: Summit, MS
Even if a caliper piston retracts with a C-clamp it may still be sticking. The rubber O-rings in the caliper swell up over time and make the pistons sticky. If they get to sticky they cause the pad to wear on the rotor even when the brake is released. Heat up the pad and then not brake when you push on the peddle causing the truck to pull towards the good working side.
Now if the truck is pulling to one side with your foot off the brake that side is dragging either from sticky pins or pistons. Eventually when the pad and rotor overheats it will stop pulling to that side but when you apply the brake the truck will pull to the opposite side.
A good rule of thumb is when you apply the brake, whatever side the truck pulls to is normally the GOOD side.
The pistons should be able to be pushed back into the caliper with your hands for some/most people, it does take quite a bit of strength. With a C-clamp the piston should go back in with very minimal effort.
Make sure the brake fluid is new/flushed out. Any little bit of old contaminated fluid can cause all kinds of weird problems especially if it got water in it somehow.
Was it anti-seize that dried up?
Now if the truck is pulling to one side with your foot off the brake that side is dragging either from sticky pins or pistons. Eventually when the pad and rotor overheats it will stop pulling to that side but when you apply the brake the truck will pull to the opposite side.
A good rule of thumb is when you apply the brake, whatever side the truck pulls to is normally the GOOD side.
The pistons should be able to be pushed back into the caliper with your hands for some/most people, it does take quite a bit of strength. With a C-clamp the piston should go back in with very minimal effort.
Make sure the brake fluid is new/flushed out. Any little bit of old contaminated fluid can cause all kinds of weird problems especially if it got water in it somehow.
Was it anti-seize that dried up?
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