OK i have some more questions. My oldest truck was a '55 until i got this one. So first time for a flathead for me. I did all the tune up stuff today after finally getting the truck going. This includes plugs, wires, dist cap, button, coil, oil and filter. I also reinstalled the pertronix igniter. Those that didn't read my other thread need to know i had some trouble and took the pertronix out and put in a new set of points and condenser.
My first question is about the oil filter. I drained the oil from the crankcase and opened up the filter canister. After pulling the filter, the canister was still half full. I removed the bottom fitting thinking i could drain the rest that way but nothing came out. So I fished around and pulled out the strange object in the bottom of the canister. Still nothing. The only thing i could do was soak up the oil with rags. So surely this isn't the norm. I also need the NAPA part number for the oil filter if someone has it.
Second is an observation on the electronics. I noticed with the points the truck started MUCH easier. No choke needed. Also never once stalled with the points. With the pertronix it has to spin over a couple times before starting. Also have to drive with the choke pulled out a little or it may stall. So what do you guys think?
Thanks! Wayne

 

Napa Oil Filter: FIL 1006
Advance Auto: L30034
AutoZone: P4

I drive with my choke about 1/4-3/8 of an inch out.

 

Check timing when using the Pertronix.
May need to tweak it for best results. Probably should start at about 8-10• BTDC.

 

The oil filter is gravity drain back to the pan - Something has come unglued and is stuffing the fitting up - Check the line also

 

it drained down thru the engine freely to a certain spot. I'm wondering if it normally drains completely?

 

I've had reason to R&R a few of those bypass filters and never saw one that would not benefit from a good removal and cleaning.

 

I agree. I'd take it completely off the engine (it's only 3 bolts) and dump the oil out and investigate further to make sure there's no other obstructions there. I'm guessing there is.

 

so it is supposed to drain completely?

 

Flow is from the outside, thru the filter media, to the center tube thru holes in the tube. IIRC the way the ones I've taken apart are made, the central tube has holes 1/4 the way up, 1/2 way up, and 3/4. The center tube unscrews from the body of the filter, pull it out and see if the lowest set of holes are plugged. But Ray and Wayne are right, probably due for an overall cleaning, painting, and new decals... But it isn't the bolts that are a PITA, it's those tubing connections. They never seem to want to start straight.

PS the sludge in the filter housing is likely lead, and toxic, can be absorbed thru the skin

 

Better yet take it off including all lines and fittings , plug holes in block , clean everything up and put it in a corner . Now change oil on a very regular basis and your engine will love you . we had many trucks on the farm without filters and working in very dusty conditions and some of them are still in use .

 

I ran across a spare filter today and took a fresh look. There is only one set of holes, about 3/4 of the way up. I'd guess it holds right at a quart at that level. The center tube on this one would not unscrew with reasonable force.

So that means if they are all this way (I don't believe they are all identical), you need to add an extra quart when doing an oil change, and you'll find that quart inside the filter when you pop the lid. I've seen filters with a separate drain plug on the side, but I think they were on the aftermarket version of the Fram filter.