Hello All,

Would someone please tell me all of teh differences between the D0OE 351W heads and say whatever casting would have came on an '88 F-250 EFI 351W? Looking for info such as flow rates, valve sizes, and combustion chamber size.

Thanks,
Nathan

 

If no one here has the info you need try asking at www.fordmuscle.com too.

 

Air injection is the main difference. The DOOE head is not drilled for air injection but it does have a 60cc combustion chamber, 1.84/1.54 valves and uses studs for the rocker arms. This is a good head if you don't give a flip about polution control. Your heads are E7TE castings and are drilled for air injection, 64cc Combustion chaimbers, have small 1.78/1.45 valves and uses pedistal mount rockers. These heads are known to have restrictive exhaust runners. But Don't give up on those E7TE heads yet. Go to www.fordmuscle.com and look at their home porting article, its very good. Please read it these heads are very good, trust me I am making 350 hp on my efi 351W. I ported them just like the article said and took them to the machine shop to get 1.94/1.6 valves and will blow away those D00E heads out of the water. Go to ebay and look for valves, you can even put chevy valves on these heads. You would be looking at about $60-120 for a set of stainless steel valves on ebay. If you go for the chevy valves they will be more toward the $60 dollar range for the both the intake and exhaust valves. A typical machine shop will charge about $10 per valve to enlarge the holes to accomidate the larger valves which adds up to $160 and will charge another $150 dollars for a three angle valve job.

 

Gabraham,

Would you please tell me MUCH more about your combination (i.e. intakes, comp, bore, stroke, cam, ect.), especially what you have done with the EFI and computer to accommodate the rest of the combination.

Also, I am EFI and computer controlled engine illiterate , and am in dire need of an education as I am wanting to build a stout motor for my F-250 project and want to retain the EFI. Would you have any recommendations as to where I can go to learn. All help is much appreciated.

Thanks,
Nathan

 

Hey my 351W is bored 4.030 with flat top pistons giving me about 9.3-9.5 compression. Everything is gasket matched on the heads and intake. I am using the stock truck EFI intake just ported the most I possibly could, again gasket matched intake. The heads are just like I stated above, after doing this they should flow slightly better than the FMS GT40 heads. Got some Shorty headers from summitt racing made by summitt racing specifically for ford trucks for about $160 and they have egr provision on passenger side, GREAT buy. Also put dual exhaust and a flowmaster muffler and a high flow cat. I also bought 1.6 ratio pedistal mount roller rocker arms from ebay new, tried 1.7 but they will not fit under valve covers . Did a roller cam converions on my non-roller block (pre-1994 351W). I used the 270HR Comp Cams Retrofit Hydraulic Roller Camshaft (Part# 32-421-8). Here is the rub, My bronco is a hell of a lot lighter than your F250 so I would recomend Compcams 260H cam (part# 35-412-8) better for more heavy trucks. You can go to comp cams and type in the part # and get all the info on the cams. I got the cams from P.A.W catalog. Remember these are for roller retrofit cams for non-roller blocks, so you have to do some modifications to the block. Don't be scared because they are very minor mods. Also don't forget to change over to a brass distributor gear beacause the steel cam will chew up the flat tappet cam gear you have on now. It costs about $20-30. I can send you some pics on how to do the roller lifter converison. Parts needed are lifter retainers, "spider" retainer, roller lifters and the two bolts, all from a roller 302 engine. You can get all of this from ebay cheap, just type roller lifters on ebay and look for the set up off a roller 302. You must tap the valley of the block for two little bolts and a little bit of minor clearancing and that is it. If you don't feel confident a machine shop can do it, they charge about $70.00. I also took off the fan and put two high performance perma cool electric fans 14" , easy way to free up about 15-20hp. I think it is over kill at almost 6,000 cfm. Here is the thing If you are doing this then you must change over to Mass Air because the speed density system that ford trucks have does not like any changes other than a completly stock engine, period. I used a ford A9L computor off of a 1988-1993 mustang. I also got a air housing off of a 1996 ford F-series or bronco (all mass air but OBD-II not compatable with pre-1996 vehicles). Can show you a picture of this too. All of the sensors that your truck has right now are fine the way they are even on the harness, this means that you dont need to do any splicing for any new sensors to the harness or anything like that with the exception of the injectors and the mass air sensor. On speed density system it uses bank firing injection so every injector doesn't need to be controlled individually. On mass air systems the computer tells every injector when to fire so every injector needs to have its own pin to the computer but the all share the same signal return pin, basically a ground. The other wires you need to put in are for the mass air sensor, four wires to the computer. Finally you need two oxygen sensors because the mustang computers require two, one sensor on each side of the engine right below the collector, any muffler shop can help you out with that. you need to run wires for the second oxygen sensor and not the other because it is already plugged in fine the way it is. Also for the mustang computer there is a pin called HEGO Ground this also needs a wire, all it is just a ground for you oxygen sensors and you hook it up some where (anywhere but NOT in hot place like exhaust manifold) on the engine. Ford trucks use a BAP and mustangs use an MAP, same sensor and does exact same thing but on trucks this sensor is connected to the vacuum port in the upper plenum and the mustang sensor is not connected to anything just reading the ambiant barometric pressure. To make the truck sensor read like a mustang map sensor, just unplug it from the vacuum line and leave the sensor unplugged so it can also read abiant barametric pressure. DON'T FORGET TO PLUG THE TUBE ON THE UPPER PLENUM!! you will have a vacuum leak. Get a copy of this book by Charles O. Probst
Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993
It has schematic diagrams of the mass air mustang and ford trucks. Don't do any modifications to the harness untill you sit down and look and the two schematics side by side and make comparasens between the two. It tells you where all the wires and pins are connected. Once you feel you see all the differences I pointed out go for it. Last detail, if your truck has the E4OD trans. then you need a stand alone controller for it. Don't worry they sell on that is better than the one ford provided. Look at this web sight http://www.baumannengineering.com/tcs.htm. If you have a C6 or manual trans then you don't need to worry about this at all. Let me know if you have some questions or anything. I think I covered everything, I hope.

Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993

Ford Fuel Injection and Electronic Engine Control: How to Understand, Service and Modify, 1988-1993

 

Gabraham,

THANKS a bunch for the great info, the quick response, and especially the book reference. Everything that you said seems rather straight forward, and very doable. However, I am wondering - is any money saved on using a Mustang computer and doing the wiring oneself going to be eaten up by Baumann Engineering? That is to say, I am confident that I can both do and save a ton by doing the above rather than outright buying the FMS conversion kit, but with it I don't have to buy the TCS computer from Baumann (do I?) (yes, I am going to be running an E4OD - getting old @ 28 ). Also, please do send me some pictures of the EFI parts that you had to convert to (jaimalade(No Email Addresses In Posts!))

Thanks,
Nathan

 

I am aware of only one FMS kit that can control the E4OD and that is the Lightning kit @ $949.95 (M-9000-L58). I have no Idea what is the difference between this kit and the others. I think it would be the injector firing on the lightning is more agressive than the mustang, i.e. more gas being injected. If you call Ford Racing they could tell you exactly what is going on. If you go with any of the other kits you would still need the TCS computer because the other kits dont have an on board controller to control the E4OD. As far as the pictures are concerned give me a day or two , maybe three (fathers Day) and I will send them out to your email address. That book that I referenced is very good because it has schematics of almost all cars up to 1993 and it also explains what each sensor does, I learned a great deal.

 

I think if you go the do it your self route you will save a lot more money in the long run. It all depends on how much money you spend on the used parts from the junk yard. The TCS was a little over $400 I believe, but if you can get all the used parts for about $250 or less which is doable, you would only be at $650. You can get a bunch of parts off of ebay for CHEAP. I still have some parts left over and would be willing to sell them to you for cheap, I have a spare injector harness you can fiddle with and an extra lid for a 1996 truck with the mass air meter (calibrated @19lb) attached. I think you can attach that lid to you existing housing by drilling holes for your screws beacause the lid normally used clips and My bronco's old housing used screws. I will let you decide which route you want to go. I will be willing to let it go for $80 ( injector harness, mass air meter, and air housing lid for 1996 F-series trucks). I will send you some pics.

 

Hey I found out that Pro-flow has an instruction page just for the F-series trucks. I read through the instructions and seem to be right, after all they are specialists when it comes down to mass air conversions. Everything is listed step by step. The only step that I have trouble with is step three (3) where they ask you to remove ALL 60 WIRES FROM THE CONNECTOR!!! Good way to make your life a living hell. Personally I don't think that is necessary, I just pulled and relocated those that needed to be relocated (if any) and pluged in the new wires into the 60 pin connector. Good reference page though look it over. here is the link
http://www.pro-flow.com/Instructions/eficonver.htm

 

Hey, a buddy of mine just told me that on ebay there is some guy that sells little kits for mass air conversions and he says that there are also some instruction included. I am buying one for a future project I have in mind. He is selling the Mass Air Sensor Connector on one end of the wiring and the female pin connector that you shove in to the 60 pin EEC-IV computer connector on the other end. He is also selling 8 different color coded wires, you solder one end to the injector pigtail connectors and the other end of the wire has the female connector you shove into the 60 pin connector. This would have been a life saver for me before because I couldn't get those female pin connectors that you shove into the 60 pin connector until I went to the junk yard and took apart a 60 pin connector and cut 7 inch piece wires that had the little female pins crimped on them. Take a look her is the ebay url
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=33596