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Alternator Issue?

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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:40 AM
  #1  
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Alternator Issue?

Ok have an electrical problem. Vehicle is a 2006 with 124K, all stock except for 4" turbo back exhaust.
This past week my batteries went dead, first time in 3 years owning. The batteries are less than 6 months old. I recharged them individually and both pass a full load test. They are currently fully charged yet my scan gauge is goign crazy on voltage. At start the voltage drops to 11.7 then as it comes up it fluctuates excessively between 13.2 and 14.1. Should I have such charging voltage on fully charged batteries? Also I noticed that one of my pod gauges is fluctuating like it is getting some crazy voltage depending on engine RPM. I have no battery or charge light and no codes or CEL. Can the alternator be going? Just hate to replace parts instead of figuring the problem. Alternator is factory ford and as best I can tell the original one.

Thanks
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 08:44 AM
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Take it to auto zone and have it checked. They do it for free and it should give you an answer on the alt.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:44 AM
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That's about how mine went. In my area, I found a good old school auto-electric shop. They test for free, and will repair the alternator so you don't need to replace it. My total bill was just over $100 with 1 year warranty, and it works perfectly now.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:40 AM
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you didnt post any number too bad either Even that 11.9V at start isnt to Bad common actualy as the Glow Plugs are on and the Alt wont kick on till GP turn Off

the best way is to pull the alt and have it Load test on bench

and pray it not a parasitic battery drain
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:44 AM
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no battery light, not even ever a flicker. Just wierd that out of the blue in a week both batteries get drained. Never been a problem before, now Im worried that something is up. I usually only drive it on weekends pulling the boat, guess I will have to see if it drains down again over the next week. I will maybe pop it off and have it tested. Just is odd, as up until last week, the voltage on my scan gauge was always rock steady. Now its all over the place.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 11:48 AM
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Sounds like a diode or two may have shorted out in the regulator thus the fluctuation and possible drain.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 12:45 PM
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At 125k miles it is very possible that your alternator IS bad. Go get it checked....
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 01:05 PM
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I drive a 2006 and have a scan gauge on it. On startup it is common for it to go as low as 11.5 volts and stay around there for a couple minutes until the alternator can kick in. If the idle kicks up to around 1200 for a couple minutes it will return to around 13.2 volts. However, i have never seen it over 13.5volts. I am going to say that your voltage regulator on the alternator has probably gone by by.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 01:33 PM
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Thanks for the tips. I am pulling it off and taking it to the local alternator shop we do business with. I spoke to the owner and he says that those alternators fail quite commonly. Matter of fact he said he has two companies running 6.0's that he upgrades their alternators as they fail. He called it the "soft start" regulator where it wont kick in right away that fails often. He claims that he upgrades them to a regulator that initiates normal charge at start up and there is no "wait" for full charge. Has nayone ever heard of anything like this? He claims he has no failures and even warranties the alternator for 2 years. On another note, what is the reason for the delay in the alternator going to full charge?

thanks
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 02:27 PM
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The current issue of trailer life has an article on batteries and alternators. Its based on the turtle expedition. The shop they use recommends that a good ground wire be installed from the alternator to the engine block. they said that the alternator is only grounded through the mount and that can cause issues.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 03:16 PM
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From: Spanaway
One test that can show a bad ALT is if you
have the radio on an AM station and hear a
whine that goes up and down with the engine
RPM that ALT is getting ready to go. It does not
happen all the time but when it does you will
be replacing one some time soon.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 03:19 PM
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I think or really know the shop is BS ya

If you want a Good ALternator go with a DC Power

the PCm controls the Alternator turn on so there isnt nothing he can do to the alt to make it turn on imediatly

You dont want it to turn on like that because it will create a 80-100Amp Voltage spike each time the truck is started and the Glow Plug turns off.

The setup you have now waits to turn of the Glow Plugs till it turn on the alternator
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
One test that can show a bad ALT is if you
have the radio on an AM station and hear a
whine that goes up and down with the engine
RPM that ALT is getting ready to go. It does not
happen all the time but when it does you will
be replacing one some time soon.

Sean
I never heard this before. Is this verifiable? I find this interesting.
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:24 PM
  #14  
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From: Spanaway
Every time I have had this go on I have had to
replace the ALT shortly after and it then goes away.
If you think about it if a diode goes bad your going
to get an AC ripple and that can get broadcasted
over the electrical system and the radio will pick
that up. It won't happen every time but when it does.
it's time.

Sean
 
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 10:56 PM
  #15  
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From: Spanaway
Interesting little tidbits can be found here
read the best answer.
Alternator making weird noises? - Yahoo! Answers
This one is also got some good info
What are the Signs of a Bad Alternator

Sean
 
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