Alternator Issue?
Wiser by FTE
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,837
Likes: 48
The pcm delays alternator output if the temprature is below 60 degvrees, at least
With my 05 excursion. I'm on my 3rd alternator @ 100k, so invest in the best one you
Can afford, if you plan on keepingthe truck.
With my 05 excursion. I'm on my 3rd alternator @ 100k, so invest in the best one you
Can afford, if you plan on keepingthe truck.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 206
Likes: 0
ok I will be pulling the alternator tonight and having it checked. But couple of questions. Is it possible for the glow plug control to be active even if the engine is at full operating temp? Would the glow plug light have to be illuminated? Reason I ask is that yesterday I parked went into the store and when I came out the voltage acted like the glow plugs were on. Output was about 11.9 at start and then slowly came back up to 13.6 even though the engine temp was 192 when I started. It seemed to be more steady yesterday, hovering aroung 13.6 the whole time coming home, but then this am it was back to 11.8 and came back to 13.2-14.1 and fluctuating. How can I check the glow plug control?
Lead Driver
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 8,241
Likes: 155
From: L.A. (Lower Alabama)
When I bought my truck it had a shiny new autozone alternator on it. After swapping it Again, I took the O'Rileys rebuild to a local shop. Their first repair lasted a week or so and I took the whole truck in to them. They acted surprised (almost offended) their repaired unit failed and spent a lot of time checking the truck and found nothing. Alt was on the bench and running loaded for more than 10min before it started breaking up. They pulled it apart and replaced the regulator/diodes with a different style they referred to as "high amp" for no charge. A couple weeks later it was a slow start and the passenger side battery failed load test so new batteries and no further issues.
I forget the details of the regulator/diode they installed but I was looking over his shoulder at the computer screen and there were several different parts with different specs shown for that alternator. They aren't all the same.
I forget the details of the regulator/diode they installed but I was looking over his shoulder at the computer screen and there were several different parts with different specs shown for that alternator. They aren't all the same.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 904
Likes: 1
Ok have an electrical problem. Vehicle is a 2006 with 124K, all stock except for 4" turbo back exhaust.
This past week my batteries went dead, first time in 3 years owning. The batteries are less than 6 months old. I recharged them individually and both pass a full load test. They are currently fully charged yet my scan gauge is goign crazy on voltage. At start the voltage drops to 11.7 then as it comes up it fluctuates excessively between 13.2 and 14.1. Should I have such charging voltage on fully charged batteries? Also I noticed that one of my pod gauges is fluctuating like it is getting some crazy voltage depending on engine RPM. I have no battery or charge light and no codes or CEL. Can the alternator be going? Just hate to replace parts instead of figuring the problem. Alternator is factory ford and as best I can tell the original one.
Thanks
This past week my batteries went dead, first time in 3 years owning. The batteries are less than 6 months old. I recharged them individually and both pass a full load test. They are currently fully charged yet my scan gauge is goign crazy on voltage. At start the voltage drops to 11.7 then as it comes up it fluctuates excessively between 13.2 and 14.1. Should I have such charging voltage on fully charged batteries? Also I noticed that one of my pod gauges is fluctuating like it is getting some crazy voltage depending on engine RPM. I have no battery or charge light and no codes or CEL. Can the alternator be going? Just hate to replace parts instead of figuring the problem. Alternator is factory ford and as best I can tell the original one.
Thanks
your DC output off the bridge in the alternator. you also have one
leaking to ground i'm guessing, which is what is killing your batteries.
if they do an epic fail and do a hard short to ground instead of open,
you have fusible links in your loom to prevent a car fire.
i'm gonna suggest something that gets echoed here a lot:
DC Power alternators are a much better solution than OEM
OEM doesn't provide enough output voltage to properly charge
your batteries.
Logistics Pro
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 3,554
Likes: 6
From: Mesick
Today I was looking at DC's website and they showed two OEM High output alternators and 2 XP High Output alternators. Plus 3 SPX alternators. Why does everyone suggest the $500 alternator versus the $270 185 amp or the $340 190 amp alternator?
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 59
Just the same one car audo forum loves Tenney alternators, when another worships EA alternators.
Some have no issue with DB Electric alternators and others despise them.
Some like me retrofit large case 3G alternators and keep things all Ford.
There are many good choices out there, some only cost a few bucks and others are extremely overpriced.
Josh
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2012
Posts: 904
Likes: 1
a full wave winding. it's harder to make, and costs more.
i also has less hysterisis loss and eddy currents, cause the
winding has less air in between the coils of wire. it' denser packed.
sorry. you asked....
and if you ask DC power, they will tell you their XP is a better unit
than any of their other units.
the ONLY difference between the XP and all their other units is the
wire type... and the blingy CNC machined front cover....
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Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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Not too bad really. Is that where it is all of the time? If so you don't "truly" need an alternator right now, unless you have $600 burning a hole in your pocket.
Josh
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
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11 volts after start is normal, but not when the engine is off. I would expect around 12.2 volts at the OBD port KOEO
Josh
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
The Glow Plugs are on at this time at KOEO thats 80-100 amps right there plus everything else Fuel Pump & FICM ect.............
Guess Im going opposite Josh and going with this is Normal
My Batterys are 3 week old and they drop this area 11.6v at KOEO will have to watch it tommoro close
if your gauge updates fast enough you will see it takes another PLUNG in Volts when starter is engauged
Certified Thread Hijacker
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 14,441
Likes: 59
The Glow Plugs are on at this time at KOEO thats 80-100 amps right there plus everything else Fuel Pump & FICM ect.............
Guess Im going opposite Josh and going with this is Normal
My Batterys are 3 week old and they drop this area 11.6v at KOEO will have to watch it tommoro close
if your gauge updates fast enough you will see it takes another PLUNG in Volts when starter is engauged
Guess Im going opposite Josh and going with this is Normal
My Batterys are 3 week old and they drop this area 11.6v at KOEO will have to watch it tommoro close
if your gauge updates fast enough you will see it takes another PLUNG in Volts when starter is engauged
Everything sounds normal to me. Volts key-off would tell condition of batteries as well. But it seems to me the batteries and alternator (for a 6G) are reasonably healthy to me.
Josh