Ball joint project
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Joined: Sep 2012
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Ball joint project
Hey all - newbie here but I've been lurking for a while.
I have 1993 extended cab short bed 2wd with the 300 L6 and e40d. I bought it recently and have been very happy to find little rust anywhere but the drivers front fender and the cab corners (bed has some rust but I'm willing to ignore that for a while). I used it last weekend to pull my 24 ft argosy (airstream) trailer from our campground to my house and it performed very well. it isn't speedy on the acceleration and it was a pretty flat drive but at speed, it hauls just fine.
I took it in to see if it could be aligned and they said it needed all 4 balljoints and a steering gear. I want to do as much of the work as possible myself so here are my questions:
Isn't the steering gear adjustable? (I have power steering - not sure if it was available without)
Will a 12 ton shop press be enough to remove and reinstall the ball joints from the spindles? I'm looking at this one Torin Hydraulic Shop Press – 12-Ton, Model# T51201 | Hydraulic Presses| Northern Tool + Equipment
What size are the nuts on the lower ball joint and tie rod ends?
I have read a bit about the ball joints on this forum and watched some useful you tube videos showing the process.
Thanks for any help or comments/tips on this job!
Jon
I have 1993 extended cab short bed 2wd with the 300 L6 and e40d. I bought it recently and have been very happy to find little rust anywhere but the drivers front fender and the cab corners (bed has some rust but I'm willing to ignore that for a while). I used it last weekend to pull my 24 ft argosy (airstream) trailer from our campground to my house and it performed very well. it isn't speedy on the acceleration and it was a pretty flat drive but at speed, it hauls just fine.
I took it in to see if it could be aligned and they said it needed all 4 balljoints and a steering gear. I want to do as much of the work as possible myself so here are my questions:
Isn't the steering gear adjustable? (I have power steering - not sure if it was available without)
Will a 12 ton shop press be enough to remove and reinstall the ball joints from the spindles? I'm looking at this one Torin Hydraulic Shop Press – 12-Ton, Model# T51201 | Hydraulic Presses| Northern Tool + Equipment
What size are the nuts on the lower ball joint and tie rod ends?
I have read a bit about the ball joints on this forum and watched some useful you tube videos showing the process.
Thanks for any help or comments/tips on this job!
Jon
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
You need a ball joint press. Its just a HD C-clamp with some adapters. Discount auto parts places like Autozone will loan you one. You have to pay for it up front, but you get all of that back when you return it.
The PS gearbox is adjustable, to a point.
The PS gearbox is adjustable, to a point.
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I've seen the ball joint clamp but this seems like it might be a good excuse to buy a new tool!
Might rent/borrow the ball joint press to get things like this: this
I'm kind of lazy. How long does it take to get these things apart using the c-clamp type press? if it really isn't a big deal to go that route then that makes more sense... if it is going to add significantly to time it takes for this job, I'd rather buy tools that I can use later for other jobs too.
thanks for the response!
Might rent/borrow the ball joint press to get things like this: this
I'm kind of lazy. How long does it take to get these things apart using the c-clamp type press? if it really isn't a big deal to go that route then that makes more sense... if it is going to add significantly to time it takes for this job, I'd rather buy tools that I can use later for other jobs too.
thanks for the response!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 7,437
Likes: 4
From: Charles Town, W bygod Va
You would have a hard time using the press you linked to install ball joints. A ball joint press installs them in minutes, after you know how to use it. For removal, I've seen where people here struggle using the press. I've done hundreds of them, and the best removal tool is about a 24 oz ball peen hammer.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 9,893
Likes: 12
From: Ohio
I've done a few of mine with just a BFH and some handy bushings(like some short pieces of pipe) to install and not screw things up. A press would speed things up, but if you don't have one, a BFH will suffice if you have something sturdy to support the spindle(like a BIG vise). I used to have a used set of joints laying on the workbench, but likely gone now. The nuts are just over 1", if I recall.
You can adjust the steering box some, using the screw/jam nut on the top of the box. This will help take some of the slop out of it, but I wouldn't screw with it til you get the balljoints done. Might look closely at the tie rods also. Once all that is nice and tight, the box might not be as bad and livable.
You can adjust the steering box some, using the screw/jam nut on the top of the box. This will help take some of the slop out of it, but I wouldn't screw with it til you get the balljoints done. Might look closely at the tie rods also. Once all that is nice and tight, the box might not be as bad and livable.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 196
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From: Milwaukee, Wi
This guy has a lot of awesome videos. used this vid and some of his others to do ball joints on my 4x4. Im not sure but i think watching this will also help greatly with your 2x4, itll be a lot easier.
Ball joint change in a 1987 - 1996 Ford F150 or Bronco 4x4 - YouTube
and I used a ball joint press from advance, worked perfect
Ball joint change in a 1987 - 1996 Ford F150 or Bronco 4x4 - YouTube
and I used a ball joint press from advance, worked perfect
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Thanks for the replies everybody! I really appreciate knowing a little more about what I'm getting into!
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don't waste your money on junk ball joints. they can be a mother to replace. i just got new tires and rims for my truck its also a 93. alot of people say the front end on our trucks is hell on ball joints. I had to replace one of them and a wheel bearing to get an alignment done so i replaced all of them and all wheel bearings and seals. Go with MOOG! do not waste your money on sub par parts cause you will be buying again. if you want good price on a set of moogs which they aint cheap by all means but well worth it go to rockauto
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Drivers side done
Well, I did the drivers side upper and lower ball joints. Here are my thoughts:
First, the size of the nut on the tie rod end is 21mm.
The nut on the lower ball joint is a 28mm. 28mm is one of the sizes that is not included in pretty much and socket or wrench sizes. a 1 1/8" will work but is a little bit loose.
I used the ball joint press that Oreilly Auto loans out. the lower ball joint came out with a bit of work with my impact wrench on the press. for the upper one I had to put a 3' pipe on a ratchet. I used the ratchet and pipe for reinstalling both of them.
This is the first time I have looked at the front brakes on this truck. The calipers slide on... pegs? 2 metal bars shaped like this < > with a piece of rubber holding them together. I expected to find bolts.
First, the size of the nut on the tie rod end is 21mm.
The nut on the lower ball joint is a 28mm. 28mm is one of the sizes that is not included in pretty much and socket or wrench sizes. a 1 1/8" will work but is a little bit loose.
I used the ball joint press that Oreilly Auto loans out. the lower ball joint came out with a bit of work with my impact wrench on the press. for the upper one I had to put a 3' pipe on a ratchet. I used the ratchet and pipe for reinstalling both of them.
This is the first time I have looked at the front brakes on this truck. The calipers slide on... pegs? 2 metal bars shaped like this < > with a piece of rubber holding them together. I expected to find bolts.
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,119
Likes: 1
From: Hartland, WI
Not sure if this has been mentioned, but follow the torque sequence on the ball joints exactly as it's written. If you don't torque them in the correct order, it affects steering return. IIRC the lower gets torqued first, then the upper. Sometimes hitting the knuckle while there's pressure on the ball joint will cause it to break loose.
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