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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:41 AM
  #1  
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Noise from 4R100

I did a search on the forum. Man these are some noise making trucks. LOL

This is on my 99 v10 Superduty.

What I'm hearing sounds like high pressure fluid passing through a restriction. I only hear it when in drive or reverse while sitting still. The noise goes away once I get moving a couple of miles per hour. It just started making this noise within the last week.
I change the fluid every other oil change (about 6000mi on the last change) and am using M1 Synth in it.
I only drive 10min between work and home so it probably barely gets warm. I don't know yet if it there hot. I'll have take it up the hill and back to see if it is temprature related.

Other then the noise it still drives and shifts fine. But it is pretty loud sitting at the drive through window. I'm going to drian it and change the filter this weekend and see how the fluid looks


Any this else I should look at or other possibilities?

Thanks in advance for your help and advice.

Update: I crawled under it last night and I think the noise is coming from the TC

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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 02:03 PM
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Sounds like its the beginning of a converter problem, I have heard this kind of noise before.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 04:30 PM
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Buy a cheap mechanics stethoscope and put it up to the return line of the trans. I had a similar sound. it was the bypass valve rattleing inside th return line. If you have a real temp gauge for your trans you may even see the temp rise due to the bypass line staying open some. If it is coming from there you have two choices, 1 replace the bypass tube assembly. 2 install the bypass eliminator kit and send all the tranny fluid through the cooler. Both have pros and cons. Keep s posted on what you find
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:41 PM
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I has defently gotten louder during the week. sounds more metalic grinding now. I see why some discribe it as marbles in a tin can. Once I got under it yesterday I'm pretty sure it is the TC.

bergy did the by-pass make the noise all the time or only while sitting idle in gear? Did temp make a difference?
I'll put a stethoscope on it this evening and make sure but I'm pretty sure it is the TC now. I'm able to get one from my local Interstate shop for $250. These guys have built a couple of trannies for me in the past and I've had no problem with their work or parts.

jk, should I have it flushed after I change the TC?
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 05:46 PM
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I would have the pan removed to check for metal and debris, I would definitely change or flush the trans once the converter is replaced. The only problem I see is if the converter is making metal there is a good chance that there may be damage to the pump and pump gears, I see this when metal moves through the pump due to a failing converter. Obviously the pump will have to be removed and disassembled to check.
 
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 06:08 PM
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The sound is louder in reverse due to the increased pressure. It is also noticeable in drive. Very minimal in park. Not noticeable when driving. When mine started going my temp was getting as hot in the winter as it was in the summer.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 09:59 AM
  #7  
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Originally Posted by jk080
I would have the pan removed to check for metal and debris, I would definitely change or flush the trans once the converter is replaced. The only problem I see is if the converter is making metal there is a good chance that there may be damage to the pump and pump gears, I see this when metal moves through the pump due to a failing converter. Obviously the pump will have to be removed and disassembled to check.
I'm going to be doing this myself. Already planed dropping pan, replacing filter, and a through cleaning including the cooler. How hard is it to pull the pump? I've built many engines, rebuilt a couple manual transmisions, but I haven't been too deap into an automatic. The repair manuals never seem to go into transmisions very much so I assume there is a seperate book on that.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 11:54 AM
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You'll need a manual from www.atsg.com.

Once the trans is out of the truck the pump isn't hard to remove.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Mark Kovalsky
You'll need a manual from www.atsg.com.

Once the trans is out of the truck the pump isn't hard to remove.
Thanks Mark.
I also found quite a few pictures and write ups during my google quest for more knowledge. I assume that while I have the pump out it would be a good time to replace seals? What kind of trouble am I looking for once the pump is removed? Galling, wear, loose clearences, all the above? Anything else I should change/look at while I have it out and replacing TC? I don't want to get in too deep and not be able to put it back together.
 
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 08:42 PM
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If bits of the torque converter have damaged the pump it will be obvious when the pump is apart. The inside of a pump is a precision machined assembly. Anything that doesn't look perfect has been damaged.
 
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:11 PM
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Thank you all for your help and input. The only big hang up I ran into was the TC I bought Friday afternoon turned out to be the wrong one Saturday when I got the tranny dropped. They sold me a 6 stud TC (diesel) so I got stuck until Monday afternoon. But on the plus side I did get them to order me a TC with the drain built in. It's amazing how much oil there is in a TC.
As soon as I drained the fluid it was clear it was the TC but there wasn't a whole lot of metal in the pan and mostly fine dust and particals on the magnet. I think I caught it making noise pretty early on.
Well I also now know how long ago the tranny was rebuilt. the Tc had a 2005 date on it.
The front pump came out without too much trouble and showed some mild scuffing but nothing that I felt needed to be replaced. I've run oil pumps in motors that looked a whole lot worse I'm sure it will last until the whole tranny needs to be rebuilt. Cleaned it up and new seals and it is ready to go.
I also see where the by-pass tube runs from the outlet to the inlet between the cooler lines on the side of the tranny. I got one of those magnetic inline filters to to put on the return line.
Other things I ran into. 3 O2 sensors? Really? and the one on the left bang you can't reach the connector without loosening the Y and moving it over so you can reach all the way up and unplug it.
So I should have the tanny back in this weekend. The engine is realy pretty well balanced. the jack I was using under the pan to support it leaked down. When I discoverd it I was expecting it to be aganst the top of fan shroud or pinching somethingbut the only thing holding the engine was the radiator hose. I put a motorcycle tiedown strap from the hood lock to the intake and with just a little pull was able to hold the engine in place.
Again thanks for the help
 
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