P2290
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
If you backprobe the ICP sensor with the DVM we can convert the Volts to PSI
Put the DVM Black lead to ground at battery and probe the Other Connections one Of the ICP wires will be 5 Volts or really close thats not the wire
I Think its going to be the DB/LG I take it Dark Brown Light Greenstripe Wire
so when you turn key on the Digital Volt meter on dash Goes Crazy??? If so when you Unhook the Bad Part (Probably the Starter) it should steady out
Sounds like starter been cranked alot and might be Burned Up Grounding inside
Put the DVM Black lead to ground at battery and probe the Other Connections one Of the ICP wires will be 5 Volts or really close thats not the wire
I Think its going to be the DB/LG I take it Dark Brown Light Greenstripe Wire
so when you turn key on the Digital Volt meter on dash Goes Crazy??? If so when you Unhook the Bad Part (Probably the Starter) it should steady out
Sounds like starter been cranked alot and might be Burned Up Grounding inside
Fleet Owner
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 27,881
Likes: 3,595
I have replaced the dummy plugs and standpipes with the updated versions.
I have the cast iron HPOP cover so I assume that I have no STC. Engine date is Nov 04
I have load tested the batteries and they test good. Both new as of a few months ago. 12.5 and 12.6 volts at rest and both load test over 850 CCA.
I have the cast iron HPOP cover so I assume that I have no STC. Engine date is Nov 04
I have load tested the batteries and they test good. Both new as of a few months ago. 12.5 and 12.6 volts at rest and both load test over 850 CCA.
I read all you stated above. I still think you have an STC fitting - and it is at least worth FURTHER investigation w/ Ford. Many 2005 year models have engines produced in 2004, that is what the auto companies do - produce the year before to sell the "year of".
Anyways - best of luck. Maybe pull the valve covers and read up on the HPO air pressure testing procedures.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
If you backprobe the ICP sensor with the DVM we can convert the Volts to PSI
Put the DVM Black lead to ground at battery and probe the Other Connections one Of the ICP wires will be 5 Volts or really close thats not the wire
I Think its going to be the DB/LG I take it Dark Brown Light Greenstripe Wire
so when you turn key on the Digital Volt meter on dash Goes Crazy??? If so when you Unhook the Bad Part (Probably the Starter) it should steady out
Sounds like starter been cranked alot and might be Burned Up Grounding inside
Put the DVM Black lead to ground at battery and probe the Other Connections one Of the ICP wires will be 5 Volts or really close thats not the wire
I Think its going to be the DB/LG I take it Dark Brown Light Greenstripe Wire
so when you turn key on the Digital Volt meter on dash Goes Crazy??? If so when you Unhook the Bad Part (Probably the Starter) it should steady out
Sounds like starter been cranked alot and might be Burned Up Grounding inside
Voltmeter only went nuts after I put the International Power Board in my FICM and only while engine was running. When this happened the truck ran like crap, didn't want to idle, had no power and I didn't think I was going to make it home. It did however take care of the 611 code. The next time I drove it volts were fine. I attempted to take a picture of the burnt board to post up here but I couldn't get the camera to focus right.
Starter hasn't been cranked a lot, but it may have been cranked without adequate voltage for a month or so this summer. I tend to use the remote start a lot and don't hear the engine starting so this probably was a problem for a while befor I discovered it.
Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
This backprobing you mentioned...is that something the engine needs to be running to do or just while cranking?
Voltmeter only went nuts after I put the International Power Board in my FICM and only while engine was running. When this happened the truck ran like crap, didn't want to idle, had no power and I didn't think I was going to make it home. It did however take care of the 611 code. The next time I drove it volts were fine. I attempted to take a picture of the burnt board to post up here but I couldn't get the camera to focus right.
Starter hasn't been cranked a lot, but it may have been cranked without adequate voltage for a month or so this summer. I tend to use the remote start a lot and don't hear the engine starting to be able to tell if there is a problem with the starter.
Voltmeter only went nuts after I put the International Power Board in my FICM and only while engine was running. When this happened the truck ran like crap, didn't want to idle, had no power and I didn't think I was going to make it home. It did however take care of the 611 code. The next time I drove it volts were fine. I attempted to take a picture of the burnt board to post up here but I couldn't get the camera to focus right.
Starter hasn't been cranked a lot, but it may have been cranked without adequate voltage for a month or so this summer. I tend to use the remote start a lot and don't hear the engine starting to be able to tell if there is a problem with the starter.
Both
KOEO will verify the sensor Integrity
Crank will verify ICP Pressure
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
Oil rails are not yet full and can't get starter to crank long enough to fill them....
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 12,123
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From: N. Fort Worth, tx
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Hotshot
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 19,055
Likes: 235
From: Saratoga Springs,UT
Ya Know Cheezit I thought about this^^
I KNOW this Spec ^^^was Measuring at the OBDII Port and the normal spec to watch for
And I know he Took his Reading Right at the Sensor thus why I thought .3 would be OK at the sensor
Am I worrying to much about Voltage Drop???
I KNOW this Spec ^^^was Measuring at the OBDII Port and the normal spec to watch for
And I know he Took his Reading Right at the Sensor thus why I thought .3 would be OK at the sensor
Am I worrying to much about Voltage Drop???
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
Perhaps I should have mentioned this in my last post but voltage flickered .3, .2, .3. I just figured that it was because I was probing the wire and was not getting a good contact, but maybe the voltage was actually changing. I'll try that test again just to be sure....Maybe the sensor is toast.
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
Ok I have some news and a theory. I sent the starter out today to the rebuilder that I use and he tested and disassembled it and told me that the armature was burnt. So he sold me a new Nippondenso starter.
My theory is that the starter was drawing a lot of amps at start up which caused the FICM to burn out. Is this plausible?
So, since I've got the the starter issue sorted out I need to do something about the FICM. What would you recommend? Another International half shell or a BPD half shell. I was considering sending it to Ed but the board is burnt and I would need to get a replacement first anyway. International is going to cost me $207 CAD tx inc. and the BPD is $495 + about $35 shipping. Is the BPD worth the extra $?
My theory is that the starter was drawing a lot of amps at start up which caused the FICM to burn out. Is this plausible?
So, since I've got the the starter issue sorted out I need to do something about the FICM. What would you recommend? Another International half shell or a BPD half shell. I was considering sending it to Ed but the board is burnt and I would need to get a replacement first anyway. International is going to cost me $207 CAD tx inc. and the BPD is $495 + about $35 shipping. Is the BPD worth the extra $?
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Tuned
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
I got the starter installed yesterday and wow what a difference. I didn't realize how sick my old one was. I cranked it over a bit with my old FICM and it fired right up.
I got a P611 though so I put in the International burnt power board and it fired right up and didn't set a code. I tested the voltage at the screw under the cover. It is 50.8-51 KOEO and 49 cranking and running. Should I be worried or just run it that way?
I got a P611 though so I put in the International burnt power board and it fired right up and didn't set a code. I tested the voltage at the screw under the cover. It is 50.8-51 KOEO and 49 cranking and running. Should I be worried or just run it that way?
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